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reasons people trad climb
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Poll: reasons people trad climb
no gym training required, just a rack 6 / 3%
placing and fondling gear 38 / 20%
less crowds 27 / 14%
potential for epics and rad stories later 31 / 16%
the bolts on sport climbs burn my eyes 10 / 5%
i can climb 5.9 trad and feel awesome, but 5.10 would require losing 30 pounds 28 / 14%
sport climbing is neither 16 / 8%
i like gear, and trad requires more gear, so it is better 38 / 20%
194 total votes
 

dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:37 AM
Post #101 of 110 (1658 views)
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Re: [damienclimber] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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damienclimber wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
Tick marks for gear placements, chains anchors, hoards of sweaty trustafarians.... yep, the IC is sport.

Let's hear you say that after you've climbed there.

I have climbed a few 5.10s there. i cut my trad teeth in vedauwoo, so while the climbing was hard in the sense of repetitive stress on joints, the gear placements were a no-brainer, and the hand jams easy to assess.

so.... throw in some shiney chains and that's about as close as you can get to sport in trad world.

Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.


Vedauwoo is for offwidth delights.
Easy going ,friendly climbers,
Partners to be found in the galley, coffee roasting .
mmnn smells great.
festivals, warm invites. A+ rating .

U.S not AAA anymore
mmmm smells like crack is cooking....


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:38 AM
Post #102 of 110 (1656 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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cutting edge!


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:39 AM
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP


dr_feelgood


Aug 27, 2011, 2:40 AM
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it is what trad climbing is all about


climbingtrash


Aug 27, 2011, 1:38 PM
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Re: [petsfed] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
Well yah, Cams were made for the Creek. Chains you will find all over the big routes in Zion too. Just makes more sense in the desert. Vedauwoo I've only heard stories of. One of these days I may make it up there.

Well, Vedauwoo ain't exactly ground-up trad-to-the-core either. There are a fair number of crack lines that feature bolts placed on rappel to protect the regions without cracks.

Sounds like sprad to meh.


climbingtrash


Aug 27, 2011, 1:41 PM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.


superchuffer


Aug 27, 2011, 9:40 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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In reply to:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.

so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?

....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...


(This post was edited by superchuffer on Aug 27, 2011, 9:43 PM)


justroberto


Aug 27, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.

so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?

....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...

Stop complaining on the internets and just go retro whatever route you think deserves moar bolts. In most places it's within yore legal rights.


superchuffer


Aug 29, 2011, 7:53 PM
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Re: [justroberto] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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thanks for the permission justin!

while i.m at it, i,ll glue and comfortize some holds as well


climbingtrash


Aug 29, 2011, 8:33 PM
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Re: [superchuffer] reasons people trad climb [In reply to]
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superchuffer wrote:
In reply to:
sling a chickenhead equalized with a rusty fixed RP

It's what makes trad teh moar spiritual form of climbing.

so explain to me what is spiritual about a first ascentionist choosing to run out a crux well within their ability?

....so as to inflate their narcissism, showing the mere mortals their ability to hike the say 5.11 unprotected crux, while seriously endangering the majority of those that want to repeat the route...

Well it's spiritual because the whole time the FA is running it out he's thinking, "Gawd I hope I don't fall."

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