I never said argue, I said question.[..] If I was a n00b, and a more experienced climber told me I should do something a certain way and then couldn't explain why when I questioned him/her, then I would be very suspect of it. Josh

I said argue. There is four situation when a leader didn't answer;
1- it is not his job to teach you how to climb
2- he didn't waste time with who don't want to learn
3- he want that the climber learn it by itself
4- he don't know the answer because he learn it in a book. number four, it's a joke I am already sorry for those who don't know why because they don't read it in a book either.

Your English is starting to hurt my head.

Now I am going to gave you an headache.

People talk about climbing and climbing is a lot of stress. There is three phase at the stress and we can read on that topic in many places: http://my.clevelandclinic.org/healthy_living/stress_management/hic_the_phases_of_stress.aspx

Le mal des rimailles: you know that guy who is very good at the bar and are sick as he go closer to the cliff. The first response to stress is stomach problem. so, the climber is not sick, he is under stress.

As you climb, you don't like the filling. You think that you are ging to fall and you did the wrong movement or make the move too rapidly. This is the second phase of stress.

In the third phase, the person can not find a solution and adopt an abnormal comportment. A lot of those people are not sport climber who place bolt to climb harder thinks. the climber with abnormal comportment (compare with the moment where they are not under stress) need bolt because they don't take time to learn to control there stress.

As a sport climber, you say that trad is easy think and we answer no, we are under stress.

As a trad climber, we say that some people can not control there stress and they place bolt on easy climb to lower there level of stress...Why do you take there defense?

Great. What does that have to do with this thread?


Who's defense? I said that the op is doing the right thing in reading up on climbing IN ADDITION TO learning from more experienced climbers. Why are you rejecting that idea? On second thought, don't answer that. I don't have that much Tylenol in the house

Josh

I think that reading a book like a school document before an exam is not good in trad.

I suggest to learn in the field. To learn the stimulation and to decide after what to do by using logic and references. So, conditionning a climber to see and avoid a danger is for me more important than reading a book before a climb.

and when a confrontation exist between the book and the "more experience climber". when a leader do think that are not "by the book" Who is going to win?

At the begining it was said reading before and learning from other after. So, if you have read you can ask question

reading in supplement of learning in the field is what I said all the time. so, if there is somet think that you don't understand, you will be able to read on the subject and find many answer.

I think that reading a book like a school document before an exam is not good in trad. Conditionning, the learning process by which the behaviour of an organism becomes dependent on an event occurring in its environment, like clipping a bolt or doing a route by memorisation of the hole, is not good in trad. You have to have a deep understanding of the technique. For me, I onsight 5.10 pratically every where, I prefer to go with my stronger friends, climb a route and, as I come back, read in a book what I had done and try to find alternative to be more secure. In that way, you are not conditionning your mind with one good solution. but in a cliff, you will be conditionning to think at many good solution

The danger of conditionning in trad is not documented.