|
venture160
Jan 12, 2003, 6:26 PM
Post #1 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 10
|
What in your opinion is the best backpack for alpine climbing, something that is light, doesn't hold TOO much, or too little, and is able to strap on things like ice axes, crampons (with or without a pouch)
here are my likings:
Arc'teryx Khasmin 62, its sooo light! and gotta love that crampon pouch
The North Face Mg 45, friend has it, and it seems to be a no thrills alpine pack..... its a bit steep on the price though.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerocket
Jan 13, 2003, 1:11 AM
Post #2 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2001
Posts: 496
|
Look at the Bomb Pack from Dana Design. Also I have been useing the Eiger from Marmot. It is cheap, light and carries everthing I need for an overnighter or long day. John
|
|
|
|
|
gyngve
Jan 13, 2003, 1:22 AM
Post #3 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2002
Posts: 155
|
I really like my Wild Things Ice Sac.
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Jan 13, 2003, 2:26 AM
Post #4 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Lowe Alpine Attack 40 or 50. My 40 holds 2200 in/3 and weighs only 1.55 lbs. My 50 holds 3000 in/3 and weighs 2.5 lbs. I routinely carry loads as heavy as 40-50 lbs in these frameless packs and they are excellent for climbing hard with 20-30 lbs.
|
|
|
|
|
jhattan
Jan 13, 2003, 1:47 PM
Post #5 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2001
Posts: 122
|
How did you pare it down to 2.5 lbs? The lightest I've seen it listed is at 3.8 lbs.
|
|
|
|
|
hallm
Jan 13, 2003, 4:00 PM
Post #6 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2002
Posts: 170
|
I have the North Face MG 35, and it has served me well, even when I ended up bivying one night on a particularly troublesome descent. You have to love the built-in sleeping pad.
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Jan 13, 2003, 4:04 PM
Post #7 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Cut off everything that doesnt matter, which is a lot...start with the top lid. I haven't carried a top lid on any pack for 4 years. All you need is a sack with straps.
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Jan 13, 2003, 4:04 PM
Post #8 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
The GoLite pack of alpine size weighs about a pound. It has *nothing* extra. If I was going to replace my Savage Gear pack (which I love dearly, but which is slowly decaying under the abuse I heap on it), I think I would look into that.
My existing pack weighs 2.5 pounds. What on earth are you guys doing to your packs to make them so heavy? Cut off the useless crap, extra buckles, etc. and weigh it again!
Are there frames inside these packs of yours?
nb. The 2.5 pounds is with the folded-up blue foam pad that serves as a 'framesheet' for my pack. I think I paid $100 for this pack on sale at Climb High. It was a choice between the Wild Things sack and it, so when it went on sale, case closed. Been around the world, used the bag+bluefoam pad to bivy in April at 13000', dropped it 90', dragged it up offwidths and chimneys... Good pack.
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-01-13 08:15 ]
|
|
|
|
|
bradhill
Jan 13, 2003, 4:27 PM
Post #9 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 486
|
I'd go for something with tool tubes with a snap buckle closure and external crampon patch. Makes transitions fast & convienient to always have your crampons right where you need them. On my Andanista, I can even reach back, unclip and pull out my alpine tool without taking my pack off or breaking stride.
Another feature I look for is a tall powder collar. I can pull my Granite Gear Alpine Light up to my waist and my Andanista up to my chest for an emergency bivy. It's also useful when you need to overload the pack.
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Jan 13, 2003, 5:10 PM
Post #10 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
Packs,
Arc’teryx – Nozon
for loads above 30 but less then 45 can pare down to 1.5 lb if needed
Wild things- IceSac
about 2 lb and very good design for ice and alpine
Cold cold world - Chernobyl
great design and features ice climbing and alpine
Wild things - Andinista
wonderful pack for multi days alpine most important feature is, it can make for a summit pack in a snap (5000-1800 cui)
Cold cold world - Chaos
great all-round multi days alpine climbing pack
they all share similar features and few are unique if looking for mass production packs these are the better of the bunch
if really in to shed the papelin then Mchale packs are the top of the line and custom build to your liking
|
|
|
|
|
rockprodigy
Jan 13, 2003, 6:54 PM
Post #11 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
|
First of all, if it says "North Face" anywhere on it, it is not "alpine". They care about making money, which you do by adding a bunch of stupid features you don't need.
I use a Lowe Alpine Cornice 40, which is totally kick-ass. It does have some extrta features that are useful like tool holsters and a water bladder holder, with a slit for the drinking tube. Mostly what I like about it is the waste belt isn't padded, so it doesn't interfere with your harness!
If you need a slightly bigger pack, go with the Alpine Attack 50.
|
|
|
|
|
agrauch
Jan 13, 2003, 7:24 PM
Post #12 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2001
Posts: 217
|
I have a McHale pack. Its more of an approach pack than a climbing pack, but I have climbed some easier mountaineering routes with it on. McHale packs are the best damn packs on the planet. Unfortunately, that kind of quality costs alot. If I had $400 to spare, I'd buy a smaller alpine pack from them in a second.
Until that time, my Wild Things Ice Sac will work. It's light, roomy, and has all the stuff you need in an alpine pack.
|
|
|
|
|
clymbhigh33
Jan 13, 2003, 7:27 PM
Post #13 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 49
|
Wild Things Andinista!
Otherwise, if your on a budget....you can convert almost any pack to a good "Alpine" pack. Cut-off almost all the "hype" that comes on packs these days. All you need is a top loading sack to carry your stuff in, and a couple holsters for you axe's. Everything else is weight(zippers, webbing loops, exterior pockets, etc)...and should be shed by way of hot knife. I have a Kelty that I have used in the Himalays...all I did was slim it down, and cut off the little bit of overkill they have on them!
Clymb High!
|
|
|
|
|
venture160
Jan 14, 2003, 4:47 AM
Post #14 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 10
|
hmm so i've been doing some hardcore internet research this week over packs.. right now i've come down to
Granite Gear Alpine
Cold Cold World Valdez
Mchale Pack (if i dont eat food for a few days i can save for it)
mb a MACPAC?
|
|
|
|
|
elvislegs
Jan 14, 2003, 8:21 PM
Post #15 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2002
Posts: 3148
|
I like BD's Ice Pack. I also use the Lowe Alpine Countour MTN 40.
|
|
|
|
|
jtcronk
Jan 16, 2003, 6:48 AM
Post #16 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2002
Posts: 122
|
Wild Things Ice Sac is great for day tripping/one nighters. Otherwise I go for my Wild Things Andinista all the way.....
|
|
|
|
|
gawd
Jan 16, 2003, 7:10 AM
Post #17 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193
|
they are all the same. nylon material with a similation of a support system and some straps.
budget is the real answer and packs with extra crap on them...ie tool holsters, build in crampon pouchs all suck..less is best.
|
|
|
|
|
coclimber26
Jan 18, 2003, 8:01 PM
Post #18 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
|
I'm partial to dana's. the bomb pack is good for long alpine routes but I prefer the Ice Factor. The padding unfolds and becomes a 3/4 sleeping pad...It's nice and light and has all the goodies a nice winter ruck should..
|
|
|
|
|
cjain
Jan 28, 2003, 2:12 AM
Post #19 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2003
Posts: 63
|
Take a look at the Serratus Icefall at www.mec.ca. I have this pack and it is great. (Note:The listed size of 3200 cu in is the unexpanded size. It expands by another 1200 cu in or so.) Also you can't beat the price.
For most trips, I prefer the Icefall to my Wild Things Icesac , mainly because the Icesac doesn't have any frame (guess I'm just a wuss :-). The Icefall has 2 very lightweight aluminium stays but they make a big difference. I also really hate the lid compartment of the Icesac.
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Jan 30, 2003, 5:17 AM
Post #20 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
Wild things Andinista, by far and away the best all around mid size alpinism pack. It's light as hell, has a bivy sleeve built in, and has a sleeping pad built in. Plus the bellows sides allow you to reduce the volume to tiny or expand it to pretty damn big. AND, last nut not least, Titoune Bouchard (queen of the wild things) will do modifications upon request. And their gear isn't made in some sweatshop in taiwan or indonesia, like all the "big name" packs.
|
|
|
|
|
hugepedro
Jan 31, 2003, 9:45 PM
Post #21 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875
|
I'm very happy with my North Face MG45. I bought it for winter mountaineering but I've been using it as my crag pak as well.
|
|
|
|
|
rabbitprobe
Jan 31, 2003, 10:08 PM
Post #22 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 16
|
Almost any pack from Jack Wolfskin. This is a german company that I absolutly love. They have the best suspetion systems I have evr used to give you all day comfort. They keep the weight down and are as durable as any pack out there. You can find some REAL cheap on ebay since the name insent real well kow in the US. I persomanly use either the Headwall for fast climbs (2500 cu.in) and the trail III when I need a lot of room (5200 Cu. in.)
|
|
|
|
|
superbum
Jan 31, 2003, 10:15 PM
Post #23 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
|
Hey, what about a Kelty Cloud (4500 or 6500). You gotta love the arctic GI-Joe commando white color too!
|
|
|
|
|
bradhill
Jan 31, 2003, 11:23 PM
Post #24 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 486
|
The Cloud series is definitely awesome, but they are PRICEY. $600 for a pack is a lot of money. I don't think I know anybody who uses one who didn't get a pro deal or buy it heavily discounted on closeout. The Flight (4500) is substantially the same pack and much cheaper.
|
|
|
|
|
freehueco
Feb 4, 2003, 4:46 PM
Post #25 of 45
(10608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2002
Posts: 13
|
I've been researching this one for weeks. I needed a pack in the 5000 cubic inch range, and my final choice is the GoLite Trek( 2.5 pounds). It's simple and from my experience with the Breeze, made of plenty durable materials.
|
|
|
|
|
sharpie
Feb 4, 2003, 4:51 PM
Post #26 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2002
Posts: 1111
|
I've carried the Osprey Eclipse 36 (sans the hood) for about 2 years now and it has been one of the best alpine packs I've ever owned (or used). I'm thinking about picking up the new Ceres 38, seems to be more focused on climbing rather than being a good all-round pack like the Eclipse. Anybody used the Ceres 38?
[ This Message was edited by: sharpie on 2003-02-04 09:11 ]
|
|
|
|
|
willstrickland
Feb 4, 2003, 5:21 PM
Post #27 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2002
Posts: 51
|
Granite Gear Alpine Light
Now that they changed the fabric, it's a top notch alpine pack. I shredded my first one twice in six months, first battling manzanita at Red Rocks, then hauling it up a chimney in Yos. The warranty replacement one is beefier material and for alpine snow/ice/mixed routes is very well thought out.
I'd avoid the Dana bomb pack like the plague. (I own a couple of Dana packs and love them for backpacking etc, but the bomb pack sucks for climbing). My $0.02
|
|
|
|
|
leejams
Feb 11, 2003, 5:44 PM
Post #28 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2002
Posts: 45
|
Does anyone use the golite gust? Been interested in this one as it is super light, inexpensive, and can stretch out to hold bigger loads when needed.
|
|
|
|
|
jbrd528
Feb 14, 2003, 3:10 AM
Post #29 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 108
|
I have the Wild Things Ice Sack and love it. It is great for cragging, but I can also carry up to 50lbs fairly comfortable. It is build out of really durable material, and if anything happens to it, Wild Things has a great repair department. If you want something for overnight or 2 to 3 days, go with the Andinista.
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Mar 13, 2003, 4:57 AM
Post #30 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
ANDINISTA ANDINISTA ANDINISTA ANDINISTA ANDINISTA!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
tim
Mar 13, 2003, 5:11 AM
Post #31 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
mick fowler's partner hauled a Gust up 17 pitches of steep alpine FA
the Andinista has been ona lot more sick routes than most of us
and if you can assemble a competent, light, functional alpine pack (for YOUR specs) under $100, that automatically trumps everything else. but as far as "will the Gust take it" the answer seems to be "YES". The spectra ripstop does an adminrable job.
I'd sew in a sleeve to hold a bluefoam pad as a "framesheet" though. (IMHO)
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerockfiend
Mar 13, 2003, 5:27 AM
Post #32 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 598
|
Marmot Eiger! Used by Exum and myself, you cannot go wrong with this minimalistically featured alpine pack. Carrys skis, axes, shovel efficiently on the outside, very symmetrical.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Mar 13, 2003, 5:35 AM
Post #33 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
I use a lowe alpine half dome 40. They don't make it no more. Light, streamlined, easy to operate. The load is your frame. I think I can go a week with that thing, so long as my rack is outside of the pack.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinist
Mar 13, 2003, 6:49 PM
Post #34 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2003
Posts: 125
|
I saw it mentioned early on but have to mention it again. The Black Diamond Ice Pack has treated me well for the last 4 years. You can check it out at:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/gear/alpinism/ice_pack.php
I have the 44L and have beat the living s___ out of it. It has held up better than any other piece of equipment I own.
|
|
|
|
|
micahmcguire
Mar 19, 2003, 4:05 AM
Post #35 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2002
Posts: 889
|
I've rigged my REI talus pack as the perfect 3-5 day glacier travel pack. works like a charm, weighs 40 pound tops and you can fit everything you will need, rope, harness, 2 axes, first-aid/EMT/IV kit, food, clothes, stove, everything. no prob.
|
|
|
|
|
topher
Mar 19, 2003, 4:23 AM
Post #36 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477
|
if your on a budget the serrtus alpine line is nice.
|
|
|
|
|
naturalhigh
Mar 31, 2003, 1:13 PM
Post #37 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2001
Posts: 131
|
my vote goes for the granite gear Alpine Light .. has goodies like ice tool tubes, gear loops on the waistbelt, crampon/snowshoe attachment straps, well waterproofed and rugged. It also is 3200cu/~4500 with the hood extended. The frame sheet is removable for when going lite, or you can use it as part of your sleep system (it's a z-rest). Bonus of bonuses, it is relatively lightweight, considering these features (2lbs 14oz I think). I use this pack for all my winter and extended summer mountaineering/alpine trips. Did I mention the baragin price of ~$160? (versus the ~300 demanded by WildThings or Mountainsmith packs)
In my opinion, the Andinista,while a good pack, is oversized for most mountaineering and alpine applications, unless you're are spending a week on McKinley or something. Think smart when you pack and you'll be happier in the end. =)
Anyways, just my two cents
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Apr 1, 2003, 12:48 AM
Post #38 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
Second all the good things that have been said about Serratus Icefall and other packs in the Serratus line. My Icefall has been on approaches with comfortable 65 pound loads, then pared down to the basics for summit days that were some of the best in my life: Mt. Alberta, Mt. Waddington, Bugaboo Spire, etc.
The Icefall is small enough that I routinely use it for 1-day ice climbing as well.
The Icefall cost me under 100 ($U.S.) about 5 years ago at MEC and is still going strong.
I own a Dana (too heavy) have tried the Andinista (too uncomfortable) and several other packs. I have been so impressed with the Serratus that I purchased a Serratus Expedition three weeks ago on my most recent trip to Canada. Total cost for that monster was under 160 ($U.S.)
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
njbourne
Apr 1, 2003, 5:31 AM
Post #39 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2003
Posts: 113
|
I just bought a Golite Gust. Its weight comes in at 18 ounces I think. I added a sturnum strap and recommend that anyone with this pack do the same. It has no frills but has planty of straps for anything someone trying to keep it light may need. I took it to New Hampshire and it was great. It carried up to 50 pounds just fine.
I've carried a stripped down Attack 50 many times. It would be my secound pick.
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Apr 1, 2003, 8:48 PM
Post #40 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
Warning...Don't take any advice about packs from turd-burgling Ohioans (see above). Unless of course the advice is coming from me.
|
|
|
|
|
jakeh76
Apr 1, 2003, 9:04 PM
Post #41 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 23
|
What is everyones thought on the Gregory Reality??
|
|
|
|
|
trbrts
Apr 1, 2003, 9:14 PM
Post #42 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 94
|
I'll say it again. Vortex backpacks are the best that I've ever owned and I currently have 3 of them in various sizes. They come with a life-time unconditional guarantee. That means you can find one in a trash can and send it to them and they'll fix it for free. I've had one of my packs for almost 7 years and I'll I've had to have fixed on it was one buckle because I stepped on it. I took it in and they gave me a new and improved heavy duty buckle. Check out the STX for alpine or my favorite the 2200 for aproaches, backcountry skiing, or going to school. Anyway, I've never met someone who had one that didn't love their pack. www.vortexbackpacks.com
|
|
|
|
|
brianinslc
Apr 1, 2003, 9:20 PM
Post #43 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 1500
|
Serratus Icefall. Recently had an issue with headspace with a helmit on, but, probably not adjusted to me that day... Otherwise, great for loads or light. Carries well. And for around 60 bucks, can't be beat.
Andinista: anymore than about 20lbs and this dude rides very poorly for me. Shoulder straps seem to loosen. Lack of any internal frame make it very uncomfy for me to carry.
Khamson 62: Jury is still out. Seems to ride ok, plenty lightweight. I'm disliking the velcro ice tool attachments, though... Need to put a few more miles on this dude. Seems good for multi day stuff without being too heavy as a daypack. Not sure, fully loaded, it carries as well as I would have liked...
CCW Chernobyl: had for a number of years, is more glue than fabric, but carries great and nice options, well thought out, a comfy ride (I added a plastic framesheet). Would think about a Chaos.
MEC daypack was around 36 bucks, small but carries well, durable, nice options. Brio Crag. 30 liters, weighs 1.1kg. Wow, cheap, nice.
BD Icepack: nice size for day climbs and light overnighters. Carries well. Durable.
Brian in SLC
|
|
|
|
|
njbourne
Apr 3, 2003, 3:47 AM
Post #44 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 4, 2003
Posts: 113
|
Jhump I know where you live
|
|
|
|
|
urbansherpa
Apr 3, 2003, 2:29 PM
Post #45 of 45
(7510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 87
|
I have a Dana Design Sphinx, 41 liter (2500").
You can strip the waist belt, shovel pocket, lid, and alum stay/HDPE sheet, and have a fairly light alpine pack.
With all the a/m attatched it makes a great hiking pack.
Can be found for $99.00 !!!!!!!!!1
|
|
|
|
|
|
