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Gmburns2000
Mar 4, 2014, 3:41 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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Appelkoos wrote: @theguy, @cracklover, guess you missed schmeh's post on the other forum: "Ah no the belayer was not sleeping and actually slowed dyl down a lot before he hit the ground. Furthermore the rope did play a part with the accident as it does have a coating on it that redufed the friction in the system. This was just a pure and unfortunate accident... Dyl is fine by the way, got a screw in his wrist yesterday for the fracture...his back/hips are fine and nothing is fractured...and of course some bad bruising" That counts as new, first-hand info in my books.
I can believe that a new and slick rope can cause some difficulty, but it does not cause an accident. A good belayor will adjust accordingly.
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moose_droppings
Mar 4, 2014, 5:05 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
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I'm going to credit part of the blame on the climber.
You need to know your belayer and their abilities before putting your life in their hands.
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Fred20
Mar 11, 2014, 9:52 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Aug 28, 2012
Posts: 50
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belaying a tr isn't exactly difficult (unless he was leading, which it sounded like he wasnt)...could a grigri have prevented this...probably.
belayer definitely at fault...always good to know that the person holding your life in their hands isn't a complete idiot.
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billcoe_
Apr 2, 2014, 8:08 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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From the link the Deckee says: In reply to: "Due to a lapse in concentration, my belayer had allowed the rope to slip through his hand(s) and flow freely through the device he was using (which was an ATC). "
Easy to blame the belayer. And there is no excuse for dropping a leader (although the guy belaying Magic Ed when the boulder with the bolt in it got pulled off and knocked him out would have gotten a pass had he dropped Ed -which he didn't). That said, any climber that chooses to head out with a beginner (climbing less that 2 years) and let them belay them unsupervised without confirming beforehand that they are experts in belaying having practiced it till they can do it asleep gets a good chunk of the blame in my view.
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