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Should someone learn hexes before cams?
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trisgo


Nov 17, 2014, 3:06 AM
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Should someone learn hexes before cams?
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I have my opinions on this, but I'm curious to hear others. Do you think it's important for someone new to trad to learn how to place hexes before learning how to place cams?


(This post was edited by trisgo on Nov 17, 2014, 3:07 AM)


6pacfershur


Nov 17, 2014, 4:50 AM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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hexes are useful in some situations and inexpensive; go ahead and monkey around with them a bit.


JimTitt


Nov 17, 2014, 7:41 AM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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A climber should be competent at using all the protection options available, then fling their hexes into box to gather dust along with that fig.8.


Partner camhead


Nov 17, 2014, 2:00 PM
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Re: [JimTitt] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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To paraphrase a middle school band teacher's comments about the Alto Clarinet, "Hexes make better lampshades than protection. And they make terrible lampshades."

No seriously, there are a few spots where hexes would conceivably be the best (or even only) protection options, but in 15 years of climbing in many different places I've not found those spots. Your time and money would be better spent learning about and buying stoppers, cams, and tricams.


granite_grrl


Nov 17, 2014, 3:37 PM
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Re: [camhead] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
No seriously, there are a few spots where hexes would conceivably be the best (or even only) protection options, but in 15 years of climbing in many different places I've not found those spots. Your time and money would be better spent learning about and buying stoppers, cams, and tricams.

The Niagara Escarpment in Ontario is good for hexes (especially since cams can rip out fairly easily unless they're in a good pod). But other than that I don't bother.

There are other places I've climbed where they would work fairly well too, but since cams don't tend to rip out of the rock as easily I don't bother with the hexes.

Edited to add - Niagara Escarpment is limestone


(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Nov 17, 2014, 6:12 PM)


dagibbs


Nov 17, 2014, 5:31 PM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I tend to use hexes as large, relatively light, passive gear -- essentially as big nuts -- and find them valuable for this. To learn the ins-and-outs of placing them actively (cammed) is probably not needed, for that sort of placement just use an SLC or tricam.


sbaclimber


Nov 17, 2014, 5:40 PM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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trisgo wrote:
I have my opinions on this, but I'm curious to hear others. Do you think it's important for someone new to trad to learn how to place hexes before learning how to place cams?
Short answer, no.
Long answer, I 5-starred Jim's post. Wink
Passive protection is passive protection (unless your placing knotted slings...). If you know how to place a nut, you'll be able to figure out a hex.
....you'll probably never be in the position to actually *need* to though.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 17, 2014, 5:52 PM)


Partner cracklover


Nov 17, 2014, 7:40 PM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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It's kind of a weird question the way you ask it - Should climbers learn to place hexes before they learn to place cams. As though placing hexes might, somehow, help you learn to place cams. So the answer to that question is no. There is nothing about placing a hex that will help you place cams.

With that said, I believe that it's very worthwhile to learn to place hexes, nuts, and cams (and tricams if you climb somewhere where they're useful) when you're starting out. All of these are useful, and all place somewhat differently. Then, if you decide you only want to carry X, Y, or Z, fine - sell the others, or leave them in a bin.

Personally, I like hexes, and carry them more often than I carry tricams. I'm going to disagree with Camhead and say that I find quite a few placements that are better hex placements than cam placements. Nearly always these are on 5.9 and easier climbs. And more often in corners than splitters. And occasionally in horizontals.

If I may be running pitches together and want a bigger rack, or if I know to expect a lot of larger pieces, I'll often bring hexes as a second or third piece in the larger sizes.

I know mine is not a popular viewpoint, so I could give several examples if anyone wants data to back up my claim.

GO


tomcecil


Nov 18, 2014, 5:51 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I agree with everything Cracklover said---I also think you can tell an experienced climber because they carry Hexes. Like any protection the more experience you have with any particular type of pro the more valuable that gear will become to you as a lead climber. When you are learning to lead you are vulnerable because of your lack of experience--with a lack of experience the last thing you want is a lack of gear to place, your best defense is to 'carpet bomb' the crack, backup your backups...Hexes are light, relatively inexpensive and over and over again proven to be more secure than cams. I can tell you in the last 30 years of guiding here at Seneca and 40+ rescues we've helped with many were from cams pulling always (user error, the cam had moved after the leader climbed by, this is a lack of experience mistake), I cant remember any accidents from hexes pulling and yes people, lots of people use Hexes here... Hexes are simpler--simple is better.
If you are in Yosemite or Indian Creek I agree Hexes probably have limited use (even though I used many on the Nose) . I would recommend all new leaders consider at least one set of Hexes #4 through #11.


JimTitt


Nov 18, 2014, 6:15 PM
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Re: [tomcecil] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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tomcecil wrote:
I also think you can tell an experienced climber because they carry Hexes.

Shit, I´m a noob!


caughtinside


Nov 18, 2014, 6:48 PM
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Re: [JimTitt] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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no


markc


Nov 18, 2014, 7:21 PM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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Cams are likely older than the majority of climbers starting to trad climb. Intentionally starting all-passive seems like pretty dated thinking. Whether cams find a temporary or permanent place on your rack is a matter of personal preference. That said, I think it's a good idea to be familiar with them.

I admittedly climb mostly easy to moderate traditional routes. I started my rack on a tight budget, starting with nuts, hexes, bargain-basement cams, and a couple tricams. I got multiple hexes for the price of one cam, which gave me redundancy in bigger sizes at a reduced weight. Placing hexes on easier ground or at the anchor saved active protection for more difficult or run-out sections. As Tom said, it also let me sew things up when I was learning. Even if I don't bring them on every climb, they've served me well over the years.


sbaclimber


Nov 18, 2014, 11:49 PM
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Re: [JimTitt] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
tomcecil wrote:
I also think you can tell an experienced climber because they carry Hexes.

Shit, I´m a noob!
6 beers in (<=me, right now)..."damned right you punter, you don't know 'nothin 'bout passive pro!" Tongue


JimTitt


Nov 19, 2014, 7:42 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
tomcecil wrote:
I also think you can tell an experienced climber because they carry Hexes.

Shit, I´m a noob!
6 beers in (<=me, right now)..."damned right you punter, you don't know 'nothin 'bout passive pro!" Tongue

Hey. I placed a hex in 1998! Nowadays I´d just bolt it.


sbaclimber


Nov 19, 2014, 9:19 AM
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Re: [JimTitt] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
tomcecil wrote:
I also think you can tell an experienced climber because they carry Hexes.

Shit, I´m a noob!
6 beers in (<=me, right now)..."damned right you punter, you don't know 'nothin 'bout passive pro!" Tongue

Hey. I placed a hex in 1998! Nowadays I´d just bolt it.
Bolts count as passive pro...right!?


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 19, 2014, 3:17 PM)


ki6ojv


Nov 19, 2014, 1:57 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I always try to use a nut or a hex 1st. I learned to climb with cams but after climbing for a while I took a step back and now only use I cam when nothing else will work. The cams are so forgiving and can be placed in a wide range of spots. I think it takes more skill to use a nut or hex in place of a cam. I almost feel like cams are cheating when I throw it in.

that being said I still bring them with me and I still use them. But learn the rock and use the right tool for the job.there is no right or wrong answer here.


mojomonkey


Nov 19, 2014, 3:40 PM
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Re: [ki6ojv] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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This video should clear everything up.

This guy has many wonderful informational videos.


Partner camhead


Nov 19, 2014, 3:54 PM
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Re: [ki6ojv] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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ki6ojv wrote:
I always try to use a nut or a hex 1st. I learned to climb with cams but after climbing for a while I took a step back and now only use I cam when nothing else will work. The cams are so forgiving and can be placed in a wide range of spots. I think it takes more skill to use a nut or hex in place of a cam. I almost feel like cams are cheating when I throw it in.

that being said I still bring them with me and I still use them. But learn the rock and use the right tool for the job.there is no right or wrong answer here.

So, it's cool to use passive pro as your own style, but climbers also need to be aware that first pieces off the ground should always be multi-directional to prevent zippering. Cams by default are almost always multi-directional; stoppers and hexes almost never. And to spend five minutes jiggling in a pair of opposed stoppers when you could have just sunk a cam in ten seconds is not cool style, it's just plain silly.


sungam


Nov 19, 2014, 6:53 PM
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JimTitt wrote:
A climber should be competent at using all the protection options available, then fling their hexes into box to gather dust along with that fig.8 warthog and bulldog until the first hoarfrost hits.
fixt 4 u m8m8m8m8


Partner cracklover


Nov 19, 2014, 7:59 PM
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Re: [tomcecil] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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tomcecil wrote:
I agree with everything Cracklover said

So far so good!

In reply to:
---I also think you can tell an experienced climber because they carry Hexes.

Oops, you lost me there. I know many experienced and excellent climbers who don't carry hexes.

GO


tomcecil


Nov 19, 2014, 8:27 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I think hexes are a great value, especially for new leaders trying to build a rack.

Ideally someone leading trad climbs would know how all the different types of protection work-- from nuts to cams , why limit yourself when your life or limb are on the line?

Camhead-
There are certainly times a cam is a better choice.
The point is the value in being able to make a choice..


Partner cracklover


Nov 19, 2014, 8:37 PM
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Re: [tomcecil] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I know I'm veering a little off topic here, but a few things said by others in this thread remind me of something.

tomcecil wrote:
Hexes are... more secure than cams. I can tell you in the last 30 years of guiding here at Seneca and 40+ rescues we've helped with many were from cams pulling always

ki6ojv wrote:
The cams are so forgiving and can be placed in a wide range of spots. I think it takes more skill to use a nut or hex in place of a cam. I almost feel like cams are cheating when I throw it in.

I don't know if anyone else sees the massive difference in opinion here? It's not just over which is "better", but about whether this whole notion of cams being "easier to place" is correct.

Personally, I think many climbers treat cams with way too little care. They act like as long as it's in there, it's fine. IMO, that's a huge mistake. Especially with smaller cams, and with nubbly placements or placements that flare in any direction. Unless the placement is perfectly textbook, and the rock is obviously bomber, I always take a second look at every placement, and try to get it in the best possible spot. I've seen many people who treat cams like many people treat gri-gris - as if they're idiot proof, and do all the work for you.

Back when it first came out about Alien heads popping off, I rigged up a testing scenario, and tested all my Aliens and those of a number of friends. All of ours wound up being ok, but I learned something else during those tests: The difference between a pretty good placement and a really good placement often is the difference between a piece that holds a moderate fall, and one that pulls out. In some of the cases, I didn't even realize the placement was imperfect until after it pulled. Sometimes, when I was first testing, it took two or three pulls before I'd get one to stick. It was a wonderful learning experience, and I placed much better gear afterward - because I knew so much more, and had a better eye. In my later testing, I didn't have this issue, because pretty much all my gear held.

ki6ojv - don't take the above personally. I have no idea - you may be perfectly safe. But a lot of folks out there aren't.

The moral of the story, for me, is that I think that a number of people out there think cams are really easy to place either because they just don't know any better, or because they do but don't think it matters whether they place an okay piece or a great one.

GO


tomcecil


Nov 19, 2014, 8:50 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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Here I go again but I agree with everything Cracklover said...

In my earlier post I should of said a sure sign of an inexperienced trad leader is a rack with nothing but cams..
(Ok, before the nitpickers jump on me there are exceptions Indian Creek, maybe Yosemite etc..)
I can't tell you how many climbers I've met--even here at Seneca who carry nothing but cams--we just had a team of "sponsored" climbers taking pics of themselves falling on Seneca 5.11's who actually told people "the new cams" do exactly the same thing as nuts and tri-cams and "so there is no reason to carry anything but cams"--these folks are not only wrong but dangerous..


petsfed


Nov 22, 2014, 6:55 AM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I don't think there's anything you'll learn from hexes that you won't learn from nuts.
Thus, if you don't climb at an area that needs really big chocks, then seeking out hexes before cams will cost you effectively two extra cams before you have a complete rack. Why not just pick up spares in the sizes you need and skip the hexes if you don't need them?

For the record, I thought that hexes were and are very useful on the larger cracks of Devils Tower and Eldorado Springs Canyon, and quite handy on the easier stuff at Vedauwoo and Joshua Tree, but basically useless at my local crag (which is so tiny and unremarkable as to not bear mention).


ki6ojv


Nov 24, 2014, 2:01 PM
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Thanks cracklover, I do use my cams and even yesterday it was the only choice for protecting my move so I used one in a horizontal. I know my placements and was taut to place it like you are falling on it and never try and use it. :) I do place them all the time, there is a right tool for every occasion.


shockabuku


Nov 26, 2014, 3:22 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
no

+1


jacques


Jan 2, 2015, 2:50 PM
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cracklover wrote:
It's kind of a weird question the way you ask it - Should climbers learn to place hexes before they learn to place cams. As though placing hexes might, somehow, help you learn to place cams. So the answer to that question is no. There is nothing about placing a hex that will help you place cams.

I think it is a big mistake to ignore the evolution of the protection. There is many type of protection that we used in the pass, some strange and some attractive. The only one who did the years test are the one which are great protection. The hex is one of them.


today, asking why we should change our cam for an other device is not very evident. In the pass, many accident happen with stopper and people had look for better protection. The evolution of the protection is good to know the limit of the protection that we used and the diversity to use the protection in all aspect of safety. As a trad climber, I admit that, in some case, nothing work but a bolt. A perception that change all the common opinion on the distinction between trad and sport.

Why should we used hex more than a cam? If you can find an answer, it is because you know one limit of the cam. There is situation where hexes are better than cam. it can help you to avoid to use some placement that can be obvious, but certainly not boomer.

The evolution of cam began with rock stuck in crack, to bolt from bolt, to stopper, hexes, tricams...and if you place two tricam back to back...it is nothing else than a cam.


healyje


Jan 4, 2015, 3:07 AM
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Still leading reasonably hard trad after forty years. I haven't carried a tri-cam or a hex in a couple of decades except for some rare and very specific known placements. What I do carry is a double set of HB (now DMM) Offsets.

Bottom line is I'll take a good passive placement over a cam every single time.

Also keep in mind that cams don't obviate the need for appropriate slinging.


KevinHecka


Feb 24, 2015, 5:48 AM
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Originally I got Hexes because Friends were the only cam around and they were pricey and the Hexes picked up those larger sizes w/o denting my wallet. Time moved on and as my rack grew I got cams; but I never tossed away my Hexes.

I think it's a wise choice to be able to pro with just about anything if necessary. Natural pro like slinging flakes or Hero-looping jugs and in as much as what Skinner brought back from his initial trip to Poland was using knots as nuts if it was all you had.

Should a new climber hustle out and get a set of hexes if he doesn't have to? No. But get your Rock Craft to a point that you can rap off with a Swiss Rappel and pro yourself with what ever's available. Right?
;) K>


notapplicable


Feb 25, 2015, 5:26 AM
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Re: [KevinHecka] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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At most crags, the utility of hexes decreases as the difficulty of the climbing increases.

The more experienced a climber becomes, the less likely they are to carry hexes on any given route.

The harder you climb, relative to your own abilities, the less likely you are to carry hexes. I don't know a single experienced climber doing routes near their physical limit who carries them. I know several who carry them that climb three grades below their limit and rarely fall.

Long story short, hexes may be useful if you are relatively inexperienced and/or climbing moderates that are well below your physical limit. Not that there's anything wrong with that.


jacques


Mar 2, 2015, 7:09 PM
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notapplicable wrote:
The more experienced a climber becomes, the less likely they are to carry hexes on any given route.

I use a number three friends because it is easier to plug than an hex. An hex need more attention to place because of the rope drag and limits of the pro. Although the safety of a well place hex will be greater than those of a friend in terms of surface.

I think that it is a reason why we have so much accident, people are too experienced to know the basic of protecting a pitch they just have to hang on a bolt or a cam because it is the same as sport...in their head...to do trad.


danabart


Mar 21, 2015, 10:11 AM
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I haven't placed a hex since 1977. Since that time, I've climbed literally 1000s of routes in the US, Canada, and Europe and never - not once - did I stop and think, "I wish I had hex."


jacques


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danabart wrote:
- not once - did I stop and think, "I wish I had hex."
cathedral ledge, recompense...with an hex

I wish I had money

to buy a cam


OneBadStud


Apr 9, 2015, 2:19 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I disagree with all this anti-hex talk. They're cheap (have you ever bailed on a cam?), lightweight and bomber. They're perfect for long alpine routes.


notapplicable


Apr 11, 2015, 3:20 PM
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Re: [OneBadStud] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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OneBadStud wrote:
I disagree with all this anti-hex talk. They're cheap (have you ever bailed on a cam?), lightweight and bomber. They're perfect for long alpine routes.

While what you say is true, it in no way contradicts or refutes my statements. If anything, the exception proves the rule.


OneBadStud


Apr 11, 2015, 7:48 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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There's obvious utility in learning to place hexes before cams when learning, but they're usefulness is forgotten when progress peaks and jumps from 5.5 to 5.9. That's too bad because cams are often used where a good nut placement would do and a nut has no moving parts, doesn't have trigger issues, doesn't "walk", etc. When my climbing level plateau's I should remind myself to bring the foundations with me from the previous level.


graniteboy


Jul 26, 2015, 8:06 PM
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Re: [OneBadStud] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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The OP asks the question as though learning to place cams and learning to place hexes is somehow a mutually exclusive proposition. I teach students the strengths and weaknesses and methods of placement on the same day. And Although we all mostly will place cams instead of hexes most of the time because they're usually a better protection option, hexes are in fact sometimes a better, safer protection form on alpine routes or anywhere the rock has loose blocks. Cams multiply the downward force of a fall into an outward force that is greater than the downward force applied to begin with, and can blow loose blocks out and get you killed. Passive devices (hexes) don't work that way, and as such are often a safer option in loose or blocky environments. And hexes weigh much, much less than an equal size cam, especially in the larger sizes, so supplementing your cam rack with a few hexes can save you some weight. Lastly, when you have to do a series of rappels on a remote route, which would you rather leave behind? a pair of ten dollar hexes, or a pair of 75 dollar cams? To pretend that only one of these tools should be used exclusively just shows people's lack of knowledge and experience in a wide variety of environments. I'm seeing a lot of lack of experience in these posts. Especially the ones who say "I've climbed X number of routes and never place hexes anymore, blah blah blah". They don't have any clue what they're talking about. There are plenty of dead people from cams blowing out a loose block and causing system failure. Back when cams first came out, there was an old kiwi guy called Dennis who used to hang out in the Valley. His was the first death I heard of due to cams causing an expando situation; he placed a couple cams under a boulder and lowered off, unleashing the boulder down on top of himself. fatal. The have been many, many other accidents and fatalities due to cams expanding things and either ripping out or causing rockfall that injured someone. So, kiddies, learn how to use all the tools at your disposal. But mostly, learn how to use the most important tool; judgement.


(This post was edited by graniteboy on Jul 26, 2015, 8:18 PM)


fluffybynomeans


Jul 28, 2015, 6:11 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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HI Tom! Hello from California...West Virginia's Seneca Rock was one of my learning starts to trad.

I agree that you can tell the experienced climber when he wears the hexes. Hexes are by far more useful and safer than stopper nuts and cams. I use them in Yosemite as much as i use them on the East Coast. They are larger than nuts, but not necessarily heavy. They can be bulky and sometimes can get in the way when in tight places or on thin walls, but are by far safer than any other piece of gear you can carry. The two falls i have taken in my 20 years as a climber have been on hexes and have not ripped out. Try falling on a tri-cam and you won't get it back!


stevecurtis


Jul 29, 2015, 8:40 PM
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Re: [trisgo] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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Go light and simple. Hexes are more of a specialty item than cams. Thus, one almost always needs to bring cams if he brings hexes. I never carry them unless i know the route requires one--very uncommon.


fluffybynomeans


Jul 30, 2015, 2:18 PM
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Re: [stevecurtis] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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I have to agree with you, but at the same time when larger pieces of gear are needed for a route hexes are by far lighter than monster cams! I guess i just like to be over prepared even when i know the route unless the approach is more than a few miles.


fluffybynomeans


Jul 30, 2015, 3:14 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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graniteboy wrote:
The OP asks the question as though learning to place cams and learning to place hexes is somehow a mutually exclusive proposition. I teach students the strengths and weaknesses and methods of placement on the same day. And Although we all mostly will place cams instead of hexes most of the time because they're usually a better protection option, hexes are in fact sometimes a better, safer protection form on alpine routes or anywhere the rock has loose blocks. Cams multiply the downward force of a fall into an outward force that is greater than the downward force applied to begin with, and can blow loose blocks out and get you killed. Passive devices (hexes) don't work that way, and as such are often a safer option in loose or blocky environments. And hexes weigh much, much less than an equal size cam, especially in the larger sizes, so supplementing your cam rack with a few hexes can save you some weight. Lastly, when you have to do a series of rappels on a remote route, which would you rather leave behind? a pair of ten dollar hexes, or a pair of 75 dollar cams? To pretend that only one of these tools should be used exclusively just shows people's lack of knowledge and experience in a wide variety of environments. I'm seeing a lot of lack of experience in these posts. Especially the ones who say "I've climbed X number of routes and never place hexes anymore, blah blah blah". They don't have any clue what they're talking about. There are plenty of dead people from cams blowing out a loose block and causing system failure. Back when cams first came out, there was an old kiwi guy called Dennis who used to hang out in the Valley. His was the first death I heard of due to cams causing an expando situation; he placed a couple cams under a boulder and lowered off, unleashing the boulder down on top of himself. fatal. The have been many, many other accidents and fatalities due to cams expanding things and either ripping out or causing rockfall that injured someone. So, kiddies, learn how to use all the tools at your disposal. But mostly, learn how to use the most important tool; judgement.

The most intelligent post yet...i hear ya brother!


billcoe_


Jul 29, 2016, 3:25 PM
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Re: [fluffybynomeans] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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Not particularly necessary to learn hexes at all but it's never a bad idea to learn everything you can. It's also somewhat depends on where you climb. Straight sided basalt, Indian Creek sandstone and most granite cracks love cams much more than hexes. Hexes are all but worthless, expecially once you start pushing your limits and need a faster placement. Yet there are times where hexes work much better than cams, locations and routes where the cracks often open up in the back. Chucking a hex into that kind of placement is much more secure than a cam ever could be. If you look around at folks racks on the routes you want to do, that's usually the first tip off.


In reply to:
They're perfect for long alpine routes.
Indeed they are, lighter than cams, if you have the slung hexes (vs the wired ones which are usually even lighter and rack better) you can reduce the slings you need as well.


rockie


Feb 2, 2024, 5:29 AM
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Re: [ki6ojv] Should someone learn hexes before cams? [In reply to]
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Don't think so. I learned with Squamosh rock guides it was cams and nuts, mine were bomber


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