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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2006, 4:20 PM
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i think im headed to the woods tomorrow if anyone is *cough* feeling a sudden cold or stomach bug coming on *cough cough* sunday is looking like the day to get out this weekend also.
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binerman
Mar 28, 2006, 5:48 PM
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WENT TO CHECK OUT CR FOR THE FIRT TIME THIS SEASON. I WAS HAPPY TO SEE THAT NOTHING HAD BROKEN OFF OVER THE WINTER.
ALTHOUGH I MUST SAY THE LEANING TREE LOOKS LIKE IT SHOULD OF FALLEN OVER THE WINTER! I DON'T THINK I'LL BE USING THIS FOR AN ANCHOR THIS YEAR!
THINKING OF HEADING THERE ON THURSDAY.
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core
Mar 28, 2006, 6:28 PM
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Jake, I must have missed something but I didn't realize you had a job to call in sick for.
I might be a bolt clipper this weekend.
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robbovius
Mar 28, 2006, 6:30 PM
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Jim! good to see ya on the board. yeah, i've been in to CR a couple times over the last month, hiking and boulderingthe chimney next to send money. that tree is lookin' REEEAAAAALLLLY sketchy.
maybe time to bring up the "bolted anchors @ CR" discussion again, here and at NERockclub? eventually we're gonna have to, I figure.
Oh BTW, everybody, say hi to Jim, long-time NERockclub yahoogroup denizen, and CR local.
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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2006, 6:51 PM
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cory i dont.. haha but most other folks do. who are you going to rumney with? i'm tempted but will probably pass until it gets a bit warmer up there and not as iffy on the weather
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notch
Mar 29, 2006, 1:43 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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Y'all,
My wife (and primary climbing partner) is out of town until mid-day Friday. I'm looking for a partner for Metro or BRG, or even better, I'd like to blow off work Thurs. or Fri. and climb in the sun. I climb up to about 10b indoors, 9s at Quincy. I just got my rack (yahoo!) but I'm no leading stud.
Please, please, please, any takers?
Matt
shoemakereast@juno.com
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orangekyak
Mar 29, 2006, 3:38 PM
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Let me get this straight.
In reply to: My wife ... is out of town until mid-day Friday ... I'm looking for a partner ... to blow ... and climb in the sun ... climb ... my rack (yahoo!) ... I'm ... stud. Please, please, please, any takers? Matt
Couldn't resist. Welcome aboard.
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jakedatc
Mar 29, 2006, 3:40 PM
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jer you and the misses should come down sunday.. 50's and nice..
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notch
Mar 29, 2006, 5:06 PM
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In reply to: Let me get this straight. In reply to: My wife ... is out of town until mid-day Friday ... I'm looking for a partner ... to blow ... and climb in the sun ... climb ... my rack (yahoo!) ... I'm ... stud. Please, please, please, any takers? Matt Couldn't resist. Welcome aboard.
Now THAT'S reading between the lines!
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robbovius
Mar 29, 2006, 8:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Let me get this straight. In reply to: My wife ... is out of town until mid-day Friday ... I'm looking for a partner ... to blow ... and climb in the sun ... climb ... my rack (yahoo!) ... I'm ... stud. Please, please, please, any takers? Matt Couldn't resist. Welcome aboard. Now THAT'S reading between the lines!
In a creepy kinda way...welcome, notch...
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notch
Mar 31, 2006, 12:58 AM
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7.5 hrs at QQ+only saw about 6 other climbers+temps in the high 60's=awesome, awesome day.
Took my first lead fall on gear, too. Wow is that a different, and far more frightening, feeling than falling on a bolt!
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kmsmoguls
Mar 31, 2006, 1:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2005
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Hey everyone. I have not posted in a while because of skiing but now that most the snow is gone at Killington or soon will be it is time for climbing. Anyone up for climbing at QQ tomorrow? I don't work on Friday and will be available in the early afternoon. I am also planning on going to QQ on Sunday afternoon if anyone is interested. Hope everyone is doing well.
Erik
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robbovius
Mar 31, 2006, 1:06 PM
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In reply to: 7.5 hrs at QQ+only saw about 6 other climbers+temps in the high 60's=awesome, awesome day. Took my first lead fall on gear, too. Wow is that a different, and far more frightening, feeling than falling on a bolt!
which route did you fall off of?
It was a swell day, I did more fixed-line self-belay at my lunchtime crag, in shorts, shirtless...awesome. today is supposed to be in the 70s...should be even more totally awesome.
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jumaringjeff
Mar 31, 2006, 1:14 PM
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I might try to get on some real rock on Saturday...the forecast is ever changing so we will see.
If it ends up sucking outside, I'll hit Metro. I don't think I've ever been there on a Saturday....how busy does it usually get?
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choueiri
Mar 31, 2006, 1:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: 7.5 hrs at QQ+only saw about 6 other climbers+temps in the high 60's=awesome, awesome day. Took my first lead fall on gear, too. Wow is that a different, and far more frightening, feeling than falling on a bolt! which route did you fall off of? It was a swell day, I did more fixed-line self-belay at my lunchtime crag, in shorts, shirtless...awesome. today is supposed to be in the 70s...should be even more totally awesome.
Notch took the plunge on Outside Corner on K Wall... which if I remember correctly, last year you had a tri-cam incident there that was very interesting....
Notch and I started the day with leading Black Knight on S Wall, then we lead Outside Corner, and then finished the day top roping one of my favorites, Pins.
It was a great day to be climbing and a great day to be sharpening those lead climbing skills that will one day come out...
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jumaringjeff
Mar 31, 2006, 2:00 PM
Post #16642 of 22774
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In reply to: In reply to: If it ends up sucking outside, I'll hit Metro. I don't think I've ever been there on a Saturday....how busy does it usually get? You ever see one of those things where they have a beehive with a glass top? You can see all the bees doing their thing - it's way cool. Each one is doing its little dance, climbing all over the other bees to do it. GO
It's really that bad? Dammit.
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jakedatc
Mar 31, 2006, 3:47 PM
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Jeff why don't you go outside sunday.. it looks to be 60 and freaking awesome out??
kate and i will be at the woods with a few other folks if anyone is down for the bouldering.
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notch
Mar 31, 2006, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: 7.5 hrs at QQ+only saw about 6 other climbers+temps in the high 60's=awesome, awesome day. Took my first lead fall on gear, too. Wow is that a different, and far more frightening, feeling than falling on a bolt! which route did you fall off of? It was a swell day, I did more fixed-line self-belay at my lunchtime crag, in shorts, shirtless...awesome. today is supposed to be in the 70s...should be even more totally awesome. Notch took the plunge on Outside Corner on K Wall... which if I remember correctly, last year you had a tri-cam incident there that was very interesting.... Notch and I started the day with leading Black Knight on S Wall, then we lead Outside Corner, and then finished the day top roping one of my favorites, Pins. It was a great day to be climbing and a great day to be sharpening those lead climbing skills that will one day come out...
The whole event was pretty wierd, actually. I climbed outside corner once on toprope, then again on TR placing gear. I climbed it a 3rd time on TR to clean Choueiri's gear that he'd placed on TR. As you would think, I had the route dialed.
And then I got on the sharp end. And things did not go as planned. I felt great on the bottom half, although I was placing more gear than I needed to. As I was placing a cam in the hand/fist cracks that are above the last ledge (above the last piton), I watched a stopper I had placed pull out horizontally and make a leisurely descent to the next piece about 7 feet down.
At this point I started to question my cam (which was probably fine), thinking, "shoot, if this cam goes, I've got a 40 ride, with ledges en route". My mind went south from here, I stopped being able to see all of the holds I had used on the previous climbs, and I finally pumped out and blew. Incidently, because I had lost faith in the cam, I dropped in a #7 stopper about a foot above and to the right of the cam. That was what caught the fall.
Choueiri climbed up and clipped our anchor, and I proceeded to climb it again on TR to clean my gear, and finished the route with no problem. They say a mind is a terrible thing to waste. In this situation, it was a worse thing to use.
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jumaringjeff
Mar 31, 2006, 4:48 PM
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In reply to: Jeff why don't you go outside sunday.. it looks to be 60 and freaking awesome out??
Yes, I've considered this too.
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flexdex
Mar 31, 2006, 5:01 PM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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Broke into V4 lastnight...hate to grade chase but this year has brought my first 3 and 4. Now need to emulate on real rock. If I can stop chickening out on 15ft topouts on real rock this year will go pretty well I think...
Start thinking about bbq, routesetting, and garage climbing mid may. Oh and Holly if you can get a discount on a keg that would be great...we are going to have a keg fridge at the new house.
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choueiri
Mar 31, 2006, 5:07 PM
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In reply to: Start thinking about bbq, routesetting, and garage climbing mid may. Oh and Holly if you can get a discount on a keg that would be great...we are going to have a keg fridge at the new house.
Who says I ever stopped thinking about it... Congrats on the progress! I will be hitting up bouldering at Hammond Pond if you are interested next week.
Tony
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cracklover
Mar 31, 2006, 5:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Good story, notch!
The only thing that prepares you for leading is leading. At least TRing teaches you how to climb, but mock-leading is *counterproductive*! It teaches you nothing about leading that you can't learn better from just ground-school (practicing placing gear), but messes up your head for real leading.
/rant
GO
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cracklover
Mar 31, 2006, 5:39 PM
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In reply to: It's really that bad? Dammit.
Only after around 12:30 or so. The early-bird can usually get a solid two and a half hours of worms, uh, ropes, before the masses descend.
GO
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core
Mar 31, 2006, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
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I just wanted to share some Mass Climber news with you all. An elated, exhausted and bruised Chris called me last night from the top of Epinephrine (2000', 15 pitches or so, 5.9) in NV, a route at the top of his Redrock to-do list.
It seems he is having quite an adventure! At least he is walking away relatively unscathed after taking a big (35 ft??) whipper and decking on a ledge (after a hold broke) followed by a headlamp summit in the dark.
Congrats Chris, come home safe! See ya soon!!
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