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Amander
Jun 25, 2007, 5:13 AM
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Details:
I currently have no rope.
I can follow a 5.7/8 .
I'm willing to top rope.
I don't want to be murdered by an annonymous internet dude.
So. That's about all.
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notch
Jun 25, 2007, 10:09 AM
Post #19277 of 22774
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Amander wrote: I feel quite incompetent asking but I need to know three things about how to use rockclimbing.com. 1) How do I post without replying to someone specifically?
In reply to: 2) How do you start a new forum (for instance: a thread specifically aimed towards western massers)?
In reply to: 3) How do I organize posts/threads by date? (because for me they're all scrambled up when I view them) |
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notch
Jun 25, 2007, 10:12 AM
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Amander wrote: Details: I currently have no rope. I can follow a 5.7/8 . I'm willing to top rope.
Sounds great, I'd love to get together!
In reply to: I don't want to be murdered by an annonymous internet dude. |
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epoch
Moderator
Jun 25, 2007, 11:12 AM
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notch wrote: Amander wrote: Details: I currently have no rope. I can follow a 5.7/8 . I'm willing to top rope. Sounds great, I'd love to get together! In reply to: I don't want to be murdered by an annonymous internet dude. Oh wait, never mind then, I'm um, busy.
You're a peach, Notch!!!!!!!!!
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robbovius
Jun 25, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Hi amanda, welcome to the MCT madness.
'
what notch said.
I'm going to be out there wed thru friday, and was planning on doing a bunch of rope-solo and TR self-belay, at farley wed evening adn thursday (if the thurnderstorms stay away) and maybe mormon hollow friday.
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Amander
Jun 25, 2007, 3:18 PM
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Thanks for your help and thanks for welcoming me to this site. I get pretty frustrated with these online things... too often I find myself in a fury of frantic mouse manuevering. Also, I lack some intrinstic web ettiquette.
Any ways, in regards to randomly meeting internet people: I met up with a guy from another forum this past weekend at The Gunks (my first time there). He was probably the nicest, most patient dude I have ever had the privledge to climb with. It ruled. I LIKE THAT PLACE A LOT.
I'll just keep an eye out with this thread for people that might be climbing Monday. I waitress most days and Monday is the only sure thing.
Thanks again!
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robbovius
Jun 25, 2007, 4:37 PM
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Amanda, that's kewl. yes the Gunks are awesome.
BTW was your profile pic taken at the summit of monadnock?
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Amander
Jun 25, 2007, 5:55 PM
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Wow, nicely placed.
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robbovius
Jun 25, 2007, 7:18 PM
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Amander wrote: Wow, nicely placed.
LOL! been there recently myself, it looked very familiar.
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koopatroopa
Jun 25, 2007, 9:13 PM
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i don't know where any of those places are but i'm starting at the catering company i work for during the summer on thursday.
that means that i'll probably have monday's and tuesday's off and my usual partner works during the week like most normal people.
if you could give me some directions and what i'm going to need for equipment (i have everything from rope to cams) i'd join you.
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orangekyak
Jun 25, 2007, 11:36 PM
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Amander wrote: too often I find myself in a fury of frantic mouse manuevering.
Amander wrote: Also, I lack some intrinstic web ettiquette.
Fantastic! My new signature.
Amander wrote: I met up with a guy from another forum this past weekend at The Gunks ... the nicest, most patient dude I have ever had the privledge to climb with.
Welcome. Thanks for the fodder. 
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notch
Jun 26, 2007, 12:14 AM
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I was over at NEclimbs.com the other day and saw a post by someone who bolted 7 anchors across the top of Den Rock in Lawrence. I'm not one to get hot and bothered about bolting (heck, I just got back from Rumney after all), but I've got to admit, I'm a little pissed. Until recently DR was my home crag, and I've built gear anchors and rope soloed the entire right side, from the First Impression face to the FK face. Beyond that, there are close enough trees so that long slings aren't so necessary.
I'm not about to go chopping or anything, and I was quite cordial in my response to the bolters post, but each time I think about it I really feel as though bolting was unnecessary and heavy handed. I'm also not too pleased with the AMC paying for the hardware. It seems a shame to me to throw in bolts just so people don't have to be inconvenienced by long slings or gear anchors.
Anyone else with experience at DR have any thoughts on the matter?
Matt
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jakedatc
Jun 26, 2007, 12:33 AM
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woohooo.. 4 days + 1 route at rumney.. i'm beat but super psyched on everything i did each day and the people i got to climb with. See the new thread i tossed up in TR for more details and hopefully pics (if folks will post them up :) ) later
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Amander
Jun 26, 2007, 1:53 PM
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To be imitated is to experience the greatest form of respect and admiration.
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Amander
Jun 26, 2007, 2:02 PM
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Let me know where you want to go and I can give you directions. But I've only been to Chapel twice and I've never been to Farley (I have a friend I can call).
As for the gear: I imagine you could bring as much as you'd like depending on what you'd like to do...I"m just a minion in the climbing game...a measly cam cleaner.
Can you go this upcoming Monday?
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robbovius
Jun 26, 2007, 2:47 PM
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FYI, Shane and I are heading to CR tonight after work, from about 5:30 until dark...
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olderic
Jun 26, 2007, 2:52 PM
Post #19292 of 22774
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notch wrote: I was over at NEclimbs.com the other day and saw a post by someone who bolted 7 anchors across the top of Den Rock in Lawrence. I'm not one to get hot and bothered about bolting (heck, I just got back from Rumney after all), but I've got to admit, I'm a little pissed. Until recently DR was my home crag, and I've built gear anchors and rope soloed the entire right side, from the First Impression face to the FK face. Beyond that, there are close enough trees so that long slings aren't so necessary. I'm not about to go chopping or anything, and I was quite cordial in my response to the bolters post, but each time I think about it I really feel as though bolting was unnecessary and heavy handed. I'm also not too pleased with the AMC paying for the hardware. It seems a shame to me to throw in bolts just so people don't have to be inconvenienced by long slings or gear anchors. Anyone else with experience at DR have any thoughts on the matter? Matt
It's ironic to me that DR is both the venue and the bolter. DR is DR's home turf and if he thought the bolts were a neccessity then I trust his judgement. He is not some kid who got a Bosch for Christmas. I haven't climbed there in 30+ years but even then it wasn't exactly a pristine wilderness setting - so I can't imagine that adding some bolts for TR anchors are going to change the feel that much. If there is an injury/fatality due to some sketchy anchors failing and access is impacted - then we all suffer. (that's a pretty lame argument but it always is thrown out in situations like this).
By the way I am "the AMC" and I have DR's check in my hot little hand. I also squashed a proposal to bolt TR anchors at College Rock a number if years ago but have supported similar things at Crow and Quincy. Just wishy-washy I guess..
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robbovius
Jun 26, 2007, 3:20 PM
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Eric, I reemember being involved in that CR anchor bolting discussion on NErockclub in '05 I think. it got pretty heated. CR is a very different vibe though, the local community doesn't want bolts.
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koopatroopa
Jun 26, 2007, 3:25 PM
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yeah i should be able to go next monday. i'd like to check out rose ledge if that's ok with you. it looks like there is a huge variety of things to do there and setting up a top rope looks to be pretty easy.
as the time gets closer we can coordinate the times more, but i'll be itching to get out and climb something after working all weekend. we should probably take this to private messages so we don't tie up the board or send me an email at the address i have listed in my profile.
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olderic
Jun 26, 2007, 3:36 PM
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robbovius wrote: Eric, I reemember being involved in that CR anchor bolting discussion on NErockclub in '05 I think. it got pretty heated. CR is a very different vibe though, the local community doesn't want bolts.
This was way back in ~95 when we (Boston AMC Mtn Comm.) got a drill and used it for some stuff at the Quarries, Cannon, the Gunks (gasp - it was with permission) etc. We though about putting some convenience anchors in at the top - there were a couple of pins in those days - but decided to keep it natural. I also even thought about putting a bolt in to lead the 5.11 face (I generally don't use Larry's names - but I think it's "My Mind is a Blank") but ended up headpointing it instead. Glad I did.
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robbovius
Jun 26, 2007, 4:15 PM
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olderic wrote: robbovius wrote: Eric, I reemember being involved in that CR anchor bolting discussion on NErockclub in '05 I think. it got pretty heated. CR is a very different vibe though, the local community doesn't want bolts. This was way back in ~95 when we (Boston AMC Mtn Comm.) got a drill and used it for some stuff at the Quarries, Cannon, the Gunks (gasp - it was with permission) etc. We though about putting some convenience anchors in at the top - there were a couple of pins in those days - but decided to keep it natural. I also even thought about putting a bolt in to lead the 5.11 face (I generally don't use Larry's names - but I think it's "My Mind is a Blank") but ended up headpointing it instead. Glad I did.
oh. somehow it doesn't surprise me that the bolting discussion had come up previously at College.
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notch
Jun 26, 2007, 6:22 PM
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olderic wrote: It's ironic to me that DR is both the venue and the bolter. DR is DR's home turf and if he thought the bolts were a neccessity then I trust his judgement. He is not some kid who got a Bosch for Christmas. I haven't climbed there in 30+ years but even then it wasn't exactly a pristine wilderness setting - so I can't imagine that adding some bolts for TR anchors are going to change the feel that much. If there is an injury/fatality due to some sketchy anchors failing and access is impacted - then we all suffer. (that's a pretty lame argument but it always is thrown out in situations like this). By the way I am "the AMC" and I have DR's check in my hot little hand. I also squashed a proposal to bolt TR anchors at College Rock a number if years ago but have supported similar things at Crow and Quincy. Just wishy-washy I guess..
Heaven knows that the word "bolt" can be polarizing, so I appreciate the reply. I realize that DR isn't exactly the high Sierra, but I do worry about the precedent. If DR is considered worthy of bolting, even though there are numerous (if not necessarily convenient) natural and gear anchors available, then why not put bolted anchors in every crag around Boston? I appreciate Dave's intention, and I appreciate the AMC's efforts to train climbers and create safe places to climb. At the end of the day, however, I respectfully disagree with the action and your support of it.
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creekyphil
Jun 26, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Does anyone have any experience leading Finger Flux at the Quincy Quarries? I bouldered the beginning today until I reached the top of my comfort zone, and the 5.11/5.12 rating given by Boston Rocks seems really high(in addition to being vague). Consensus on grade? I know that dirt was piled at the base of the climb, and that may have eliminated the crux. The gear looks like mostly low end nuts and a couple of small cams, but any info would be appreciated.
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jakedatc
Jun 26, 2007, 10:46 PM
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Phil i've TR'd it and apparently the first few feet + have been buried by dirt. So the grade is definitely .11 or under.. definitely not over. Gabe will have a better idea since he's done it more times. he may know more about the gear it would take also.
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cracklover
Jun 27, 2007, 12:06 AM
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creekyphil wrote: Does anyone have any experience leading Finger Flux at the Quincy Quarries? I bouldered the beginning today until I reached the top of my comfort zone, and the 5.11/5.12 rating given by Boston Rocks seems really high(in addition to being vague). Consensus on grade?
Yes, that grade is definitely high, and that's partly my fault. When the latest edition of the Boston Rocks book came out, I was responsible for beta and names for all the climbs in the Swingles section of Quincy Quarries. I did almost all of them, but was still projecting the line I wound up calling Finger Flux when they were asking for final copy. I gave them the tentative grade of 5.11+ based on my sequence at the time. I later found an easier sequence, that made the climb a solid 5.11a. So that's my fault. However, as you have eluded to, the owner of the quarry did further "landscaping", and the crux of the climb which was within the first few feet, wound up buried under six feet of Big Dig dirt.
Last I checked, the consensus was more like 5.10a/b
In reply to: I know that dirt was piled at the base of the climb, and that may have eliminated the crux. The gear looks like mostly low end nuts and a couple of small cams, but any info would be appreciated.
Sorry, don't remember the gear. I do remember that the rock was pretty rotten in much of the crack, and I dug a lot of it out with my nut tool. So I really wouldn't trust gear in it if I were you.
GO
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