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jakedatc
Apr 19, 2011, 3:41 PM
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nahh.. is just the old man meds creating hallucinations.
3rd year is the charm for making it to rumney? Hell even Jammer has beat me out there this year :P
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AntinJ
Apr 19, 2011, 3:46 PM
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Sounds like the Spring is shaping up out on the East. My buddies are reporting back with some great days at the Gunks!
Things are still great out Here. Climbed on Saturday AM @ ELDO. For those of you who've climbed there, we ticked two classic lines: Alice in Bucket Land and Ruper. Then I met some visiting Bostonians in the afternoon and we went and clipped bolts in Boulder Canyon!
Sunday was also stellar. I headed back to Eldo and we ticked two more amazing routes. The Green Spur and Blind Faith. Blind Faith was put up onsight free-solo by Jim Erickson....crazy stuff.
Hope all you guys are doing well!
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jakedatc
Apr 19, 2011, 3:57 PM
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jammer wrote: jakedatc wrote: nahh.. is just the old man meds creating hallucinations. 3rd year is the charm for making it to rumney? Hell even Jammer has beat me out there this year :P Sorry Jake, last I knew, you almost lived there! Wasn't trying to break with tradition, but one must do what one must do! 
it is ok.. i went to RRG for 10 days instead of getting to rumney in march. I'll make that trade all day. i should be up in a few weeks
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jammer
Apr 19, 2011, 4:06 PM
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Nice to see you expanding your area. Since it has been awhile, have you been making it more south lately? How about out west? I did read that you now climb trad! Nice ...
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jakedatc
Apr 19, 2011, 6:18 PM
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jammer wrote: Nice to see you expanding your area. Since it has been awhile, have you been making it more south lately? How about out west? I did read that you now climb trad! Nice ...
we took a trip to the red the past 2 spring breaks. i have been trying to add in more gunks trips. nothing out west though.. too much time and $ for that
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jammer
Apr 20, 2011, 4:22 AM
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Jake, if you ever head up to North Conway area, drop me a PM! It's been awhile since we tied in together. For that matter, we still have some unfinished business at Rumney, that last climb I was too pumped to finish, then I'll be more then happy to follow you on your climbs.
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jakedatc
Apr 20, 2011, 2:35 PM
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jammer wrote: Jake, if you ever head up to North Conway area, drop me a PM! It's been awhile since we tied in together. For that matter, we still have some unfinished business at Rumney, that last climb I was too pumped to finish, then I'll be more then happy to follow you on your climbs.
you will not find me in NConway any time soon. It is the same distance to the gunks and i would rather go there for trad. rumney is a much better bet.
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 21, 2011, 1:46 PM
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AntinJ wrote: Sounds like the Spring is shaping up out on the East. My buddies are reporting back with some great days at the Gunks!
We went to the Gunks for the first time this season the past weekend. Didn't get a ton of pitches in and didn't feel super strong, but got some good climbing in. We did Son of Easy O, Retribution, toproped No Solution, Proctoscope, City Lights, Maria Direct, and Jean.
In reply to: Things are still great out Here. Climbed on Saturday AM @ ELDO. For those of you who've climbed there, we ticked two classic lines: Alice in Bucket Land and Ruper.
Alice in Bucketland is great (not if 5.8 is your limit, though). When I was there, we linked Rosy Crucifixion to Alice. Rosy is great!
In reply to: Sunday was also stellar. I headed back to Eldo and we ticked two more amazing routes. The Green Spur and Blind Faith. Blind Faith was put up onsight free-solo by Jim Erickson....crazy stuff. Hope all you guys are doing well!
Glad to hear you're having a good time. When I was out, Gabe told me about Blind Faith. Crazy!
Josh
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lucander
May 11, 2011, 3:27 AM
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Boston Climbers:
I just got a summer job at Harvard and need a place to sleep June 26-July 22nd. Basement, couch, and spare room are all okay - and I will pay. I'll be working hard through just about all the daylight hours and I'll be away in the Gunks or Whites every single weekend. PM or email me at Lucander24@yahoo.com if you're interested. I've been poking around on Craig's List but (1) I'd rather live with climbers and (2) the odd dates of my job are prohibitive for most subletters.
David
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Gmburns2000
May 11, 2011, 3:48 AM
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David,
I have a friend in Teele Square (two stops down from Harvard) who has a place that is month-to-month. Probably around $650 + utilities for the month. He's not a climber, but a really nice guy and a good friend of mine. Let me know if it would be something you'd be interested in.
He has all the furniture you'd need except for bedroom stuff, and even then you could work something out I'm sure (he has a futon, for instance).
It's not the most luxurious accommodation, but it certainly isn't the worst, either.
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lucander
May 11, 2011, 3:58 AM
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Burns,
Very interested. No worries about furniture, I'll bring a z-rest and sleeping bag. Will be working from early morning through late night - the homeowner will hardly know I'm there. Please do pass my email <Lucander24@yahoo.com> on to your friend.
Also, we should go to QQ once in a while during the afternoon.
D. Lucander
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Gmburns2000
May 11, 2011, 2:18 PM
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I sent an e-mail to the both of you. good luck.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 6, 2011, 1:09 PM
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It was a beautiful weekend in the Gunks. Both Tiff and I climbed pretty well. Tiff onsighted her first 9 of the season and I led 5 more 10's to put me at 40 Gunks 10's (Not counting the 9's that probably should be 10's). I would like to spend most of the summer working 11's, so I think I am starting to get in shape for that. I would like to finally get on Yellow Wall this year.
Josh
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losbill
Jun 6, 2011, 2:55 PM
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Geez Josh ---
How could you possilby post up about the weekend and not mention the smores!!!!
BTW please send me your list of 9's that should be 10's. Since I am now trying to work through the 9's it might prove handy. Pretty sure I was on one the weekend before. Also what would you rate the start to Pas de Deux at? Stepped up and out on the face several times trying a couple of different sequences Sunday before finally deciding it wasn't worth the potential groundfall.
Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Jun 6, 2011, 3:21 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 6, 2011, 3:28 PM
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losbill wrote: Geez Josh --- How could you possilby post up about the weekend and not mention the smores!!!! BTW please send me your list of 9's that should be 10's. Since I am now trying to work through the 9's it might prove handy. Pretty sure I was on one the weekend before. Also what would you rate the start to Pas de Deux at? Stepped up and out on the face several times trying a couple of different sequences Sunday before finally deciding it wasn't worth the potential groundfall. Bill
Oh yeah. I was so caught up in my spray, that I forgot about the smores  I had almost as many smores as I did climbs this weekend.
Also forgot to mention the amazing dinner and overall hospitality of Gail and Mitch. Thanks again!
As far as 9's that should be 10's, I would say the Dangler and Bonnie's Direct qualify. Also possibly Inverted Layback. If you can do those 3, then you could do quite a few 10's.
Pas De Deux is a very heady 8. I would say it's probably an 8, maybe 9-.
Josh
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AntinJ
Jun 6, 2011, 3:32 PM
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Bill: Don't feel bad about Pas De Deux! This is me a few summers ago.
I am pretty sure I was in this exact spot for about 5 minutes before mustering up the nerve to continue on those polished foot holds. I would say the rating is probably accurate, but the ground-fall potential makes the whole thing seem pretty intense!
Josh: Sounds like you are crushing the Gunks. I must say I do miss the weekends in New Paltz!
Out here it's been beautiful! Everyone had been training hard at the Alpine Training Center in boulder. In fact, I ran into a guy named Tim Banfield the other day who has climbed with a few East Coast climbers, specifically you GB.
Last weekend I got my first taste of Indian Creek, which was phenomenal! There really is no place like it.
Me on Incredible Hand Crack (which is INCREDIBLE BTW!)
Then Saturday I spent the day running and climbing around the Flatirons and then a few of us climbed at Shelf Road yesterday! Believe it or not, the place was empty! These Colorado climbers are SOFT! Apparently it was too "hot". Just thinking of those humid, 90 degree days in NH had us laughing at 75 degrees, dry as a bone with a consistent cool breeze.
Keep the east coast TR's coming!
all the best,
Jason
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losbill
Jun 6, 2011, 9:43 PM
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Josh --- Thanks, I have twice stepped up to Bonnie's Direct and taken a long look at it. Guess I will wait and get a number of 9's under my belt before giving it a go.
Jason --- Good to hear from you. Thanks for the pic of you on Pas de Deux. Hard to tell where you are at in the pic. Had you finished the traverse and gained the crack and getting ready to move up; or are you off to the right of the crack getting ready to traverse 6 feet or so left to it?
I didn't get very far at all. I started at the LF corner right by the crack. I stepped up right onto the slab. With the gear up in the top of corner. I moved up on some reasonable "pebbles" but the thin horizontal remained one more move out of my reach. If I had been able to step up I would have been about 3 feet to the right of the crack on some pretty polished rock.
Love the Indian Creek photo! Wow!
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jakedatc
Jun 6, 2011, 10:12 PM
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losbill wrote: Josh --- Thanks, I have twice stepped up to Bonnie's Direct and taken a long look at it. Guess I will wait and get a number of 9's under my belt before giving it a go. Jason --- Good to hear from you. Thanks for the pic of you on Pas de Deux. Hard to tell where you are at in the pic. Had you finished the traverse and gained the crack and getting ready to move up; or are you off to the right of the crack getting ready to traverse 6 feet or so left to it? I didn't get very far at all. I started at the LF corner right by the crack. I stepped up right onto the slab. With the gear up in the top of corner. I moved up on some reasonable "pebbles" but the thin horizontal remained one more move out of my reach. If I had been able to step up I would have been about 3 feet to the right of the crack on some pretty polished rock. Love the Indian Creek photo! Wow!
Bill you want to follow Bonnie Direct? I still need to lead that.
my normal gunks partner (Doc) is basically done with the E.Coast so i need someone to go gunking with! when are you free these days? PM me
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cracklover
Jun 6, 2011, 10:44 PM
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Nice! Yay Tiff and Josh!
In recent news from the Denver transplants, AntinJ and Jenny joined Allison and I for their first trip to Indian Creek. Much fun was had by all! (After we all finally found each other). Here's a photo of Allison and I leading side-by-side cracks. (I think AntinJ was the photographer?)
Allison and I have also been climbing a fair bit in Eldo. She just did her first ever Eldo 5.10 onsight this weekend - a crack route called Blind Faith. Go Allison! And I just did my second favorite route ever at Eldo - Outer Space. Super exposed! Josh, you'd love it!
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jun 7, 2011, 2:35 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jun 7, 2011, 12:58 AM
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I made it out to Rumney today for my first outing in the northern hemisphere in 2011, and I sucked.
I'm a long, long way away from my goal of getting MF clean this year. Long way.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 8, 2011, 1:45 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I made it out to Rumney today for my first outing in the northern hemisphere in 2011, and I sucked.
You don't say.
In reply to: I'm a long, long way away from my goal of getting MF clean this year. Long way.
You need to get thee to the Gunks to get thee in Gunks shape.
Josh
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jakedatc
Jun 8, 2011, 2:01 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I made it out toRumney today for my first outing in the northern hemisphere in 2011, and I sucked. You don't say. In reply to: I'm a long, long way away from my goal of getting MF clean this year. Long way. You need to get thee to the Gunks to get thee in Gunks shape. Josh
fixied
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Gmburns2000
Jun 8, 2011, 10:33 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I made it out to Rumney today for my first outing in the northern hemisphere in 2011, and I sucked. You don't say. In reply to: I'm a long, long way away from my goal of getting MF clean this year. Long way. You need to get thee to the Gunks to get thee in Gunks shape. Josh
This is true. I won't make it there until July anyway, however.
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Pseudomotive
Jul 5, 2011, 9:50 PM
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