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pico23
Jul 17, 2003, 4:19 AM
Post #26 of 41
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Registered: Mar 14, 2003
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In reply to: "Unfortunately, the best way to train for alpine is alpine..." That's what I heard...sadly I know no one that does Alpine....sucks!!! But ya, I figured so much. I was going to be going up to the Laurents the other weekend but work kept me from it, really pissed about it. But ya planning some good climb adventures soon....I'm heard about Tremblant had the Ice courses....want to try it...I think I need more training though. I don't really know what I want to do (glacier travel or ice/snow face)...I want to do it all. I'm still excited about it!! Shub's I'm not sure where in Quebec you are but much of quebec is mountainous from the Laurentians to the Chic-chocs. New Hampshire and the Daks aren't far from Montreal or even Quebec City. Quebec has some long NEI 5 and 6 ice climbs not far from Quebec City. The Daks and NH have some equally long rock climbs and Maine does as well. It seems that westerners think the east is an entirely flat wasteland but even in the Catskills I can gain 3000 feet in less then 3 miles. The Catskills top out at around 4000ft but they start at less then 800feet at many trail heads giving you a big elevation gain. In the Daks and NH I can gain 4000-5000 over about the same mileage. thats plenty steep for a good workout whether running or just humping a heavy pack to the top. If you can hump 80lbs up 3000ft in 2.5 miles without blinking you're in pretty good shape and conditioning isn't gonna be your weak point. What you can't gain is altitude training. But I don't think that is a huge factor if you are in good shape unless you only have a few days and don't have time to acclimate. Get Peter Crofts Alpine climbing book which is a good short book. It vaguely covers everything and at the very least gives you an insight into alpine climbing training and techniques.
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alpinestylist
Jul 17, 2003, 4:26 AM
Post #27 of 41
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
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spend 10 years climbing everything in site rev it up even more drink tons, smoke more meet hard dudes don't get frostbite 4/5 ain't bad Brent
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leeloo
Jul 17, 2003, 1:20 PM
Post #28 of 41
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Registered: Jul 8, 2003
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Random question here....Hope i'm not interfering with post question! How long does it take....both mentally and physically to do an alpine climb? I mean from what's been posted this style is mother brutal! Lisa
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neeterock
Jul 17, 2003, 1:24 PM
Post #29 of 41
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Thanks... drinking a bottle of wine, running to the crags and soloing a 5.4....this made me laugh. I know you weren't kidding....but I enjoyed that little image. But ya to alpinestylist's reply......now I understand that climbers in general are a somewhat 'different' type of people...which is why the rock. But ya smoking??? Now I assumed instantly that you were refereing to mary(not saying that climber's are all pot heads....but i've known a few and most seem to....ANYWAY) I have a question. I already know the answer but I just want to make sure. I smoke...cigs'....I've cut back dramatically, cutting into running time, so ya does it really destroy your ability to "be all you can be" type thing?? I know its bad for you and s___...I've seen the ads but does it really affect you? I mean, I've known tons of people who smoke and can kick ass at extreme stuff. But ya, just wondering. Shubee
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pehperboy
Jul 17, 2003, 2:15 PM
Post #30 of 41
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Hear what you are saying about those freaks who smoke like crazy - legal and soon to be legal stuff - and are able to sustain amazing endurance running, climbing, etc. Good for them, I say. But I have to wonder how much better they would be if their lungs were clear and they didn't have all those nasty toxins running through their veins. Then perhaps smoke gives them a psychological boost. :?:
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dingus
Jul 17, 2003, 3:22 PM
Post #31 of 41
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In reply to: Hear what you are saying about those freaks who smoke like crazy - legal and soon to be legal stuff - and are able to sustain amazing endurance running, climbing, etc. Good for them, I say. But I have to wonder how much better they would be if their lungs were clear and they didn't have all those nasty toxins running through their veins. Then perhaps smoke gives them a psychological boost. :?: Pink lungers. That's what we call them. And we can't keep up, so we figger, if ya got em, smoke em. As we watch the bottoms of your feet dissappear in the switchbacks above us we cheerfully call amongst ourselves: "SMOKE BREAK!" That's pretty much it my man. DMT
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neeterock
Jul 17, 2003, 3:57 PM
Post #32 of 41
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Registered: Jul 11, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: Hear what you are saying about those freaks who smoke like crazy - legal and soon to be legal stuff - and are able to sustain amazing endurance running, climbing, etc. Good for them, I say. But I have to wonder how much better they would be if their lungs were clear and they didn't have all those nasty toxins running through their veins. Then perhaps smoke gives them a psychological boost. :?: Pink lungers. That's what we call them. And we can't keep up, so we figger, if ya got em, smoke em. As we watch the bottoms of your feet dissappear in the switchbacks above us we cheerfully call amongst ourselves: "SMOKE BREAK!" That's pretty much it my man. DMT Good times..... :D Shubee
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pirate
Jul 17, 2003, 4:14 PM
Post #33 of 41
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Registered: May 12, 2003
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Hi Lisa, to Answer your question about how long does it take? Well that totally depends on the route the objective and the commitment. First off within alpine climbing there style differences ie My partner and I do a lot of capsule type of ascents (in a single hard push) on a lot of routes we attempt this on that single push usually lasts anywhere from 12hrs on easier stuff to 24,36 even 48 hrs (okay our longest capsule ascent so far we were on the go for 53hrs straight.) Other times we break our climbs up it could take a few days or a lot longer just to get through the approach then you may try to do a single push up the route and just back to a high camp or bivvy somewhere in between if the weather might kill you. Okay thats just sorta the tip for the physical (that reminds me what did the leper say to the prostitute? "Keep the tip" Ba dump ba tshhhhh! :lol: now where were we oh yeah how about the mental game? Well lets just say it starts way before the climb and can last a long time after a climb. I know guys that have had to take a year off of climbing after a huge commitment on some radical route. Were talkin about serious world class alpiners. Its not that they never wanted to climb again but rather it just took that much out of them. You know its kinda weird Ive been through some huge epics and when I got down with in hours I was ready to go again and then other times even on things less epical Ive found that I wasn't ready to commit for months. Alpine does indeed have a huge mental element to the game. hope this helps :wink: Cheers Shawn
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alwaysforward
Jul 17, 2003, 4:56 PM
Post #34 of 41
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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"The best training was to go to the pub, drink 5 quarts of beer, and talk about climbing." Ron Fawcett "I suggest going out to the nearest pub and getting completely, and utterly, wasted. Make sure you smoke at least 1 pack of unfiltered Camel's. Get the full ashtray, pour a drink in it and then pour the mixture into a water bottle. When you get home (ideally around 3:30am) stick the vile mixture into your freezer. Put on your best goretex and thermal layer. Climb in. At 5:30am, get out, drink (chew?) the mixture and go run the biggest flight of stairs you can find. Run until your heart threatens to explode. Your dehydration caused by the alcohol should adequately simulate what you may experience at higher altitudes. Your lung capacity should be sufficiently impaired by the smokes to simulate a oxygen poor environment. The freezer episode should adequately replicate a bivy. Drinking the booze/butt mixture should simulate your lack of appetite..... Oh — once your finished your workout, go to work (to replicate the long walk out)." — Greg Hamilton suggesting an altitude training
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hammer_
Jul 17, 2003, 5:03 PM
Post #35 of 41
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 179
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In reply to: "The best training was to go to the pub, drink 5 quarts of beer, and talk about climbing." Ron Fawcett "I suggest going out to the nearest pub and getting completely, and utterly, wasted. Make sure you smoke at least 1 pack of unfiltered Camel's. Get the full ashtray, pour a drink in it and then pour the mixture into a water bottle. When you get home (ideally around 3:30am) stick the vile mixture into your freezer. Put on your best goretex and thermal layer. Climb in. At 5:30am, get out, drink (chew?) the mixture and go run the biggest flight of stairs you can find. Run until your heart threatens to explode. Your dehydration caused by the alcohol should adequately simulate what you may experience at higher altitudes. Your lung capacity should be sufficiently impaired by the smokes to simulate a oxygen poor environment. The freezer episode should adequately replicate a bivy. Drinking the booze/butt mixture should simulate your lack of appetite..... Oh — once your finished your workout, go to work (to replicate the long walk out)." — Greg Hamilton suggesting an altitude training Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!! :D
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neeterock
Jul 17, 2003, 5:21 PM
Post #36 of 41
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Registered: Jul 11, 2003
Posts: 35
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In reply to: "The best training was to go to the pub, drink 5 quarts of beer, and talk about climbing." Ron Fawcett "I suggest going out to the nearest pub and getting completely, and utterly, wasted. Make sure you smoke at least 1 pack of unfiltered Camel's. Get the full ashtray, pour a drink in it and then pour the mixture into a water bottle. When you get home (ideally around 3:30am) stick the vile mixture into your freezer. Put on your best goretex and thermal layer. Climb in. At 5:30am, get out, drink (chew?) the mixture and go run the biggest flight of stairs you can find. Run until your heart threatens to explode. Your dehydration caused by the alcohol should adequately simulate what you may experience at higher altitudes. Your lung capacity should be sufficiently impaired by the smokes to simulate a oxygen poor environment. The freezer episode should adequately replicate a bivy. Drinking the booze/butt mixture should simulate your lack of appetite..... Oh — once your finished your workout, go to work (to replicate the long walk out)." — Greg Hamilton suggesting an altitude training :| Ya, I figured so much...just had to check. Shub's
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pico23
Jul 17, 2003, 6:34 PM
Post #37 of 41
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Registered: Mar 14, 2003
Posts: 2378
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In reply to: Thanks... drinking a bottle of wine, running to the crags and soloing a 5.4....this made me laugh. I know you weren't kidding....but I enjoyed that little image. But ya to alpinestylist's reply......now I understand that climbers in general are a somewhat 'different' type of people...which is why the rock. But ya smoking??? Now I assumed instantly that you were refereing to mary(not saying that climber's are all pot heads....but i've known a few and most seem to....ANYWAY) I have a question. I already know the answer but I just want to make sure. I smoke...cigs'....I've cut back dramatically, cutting into running time, so ya does it really destroy your ability to "be all you can be" type thing?? I know its bad for you and s___...I've seen the ads but does it really affect you? I mean, I've known tons of people who smoke and can kick ass at extreme stuff. But ya, just wondering. Shubee Slowly but surely they are concretely figuring out exactly all the ways smoking can kill you. For instance I think it is pretty clear that it causes cancer and emphysema as that was discovered in the 60's. And they're is no doubt that even in a "healthy" smoker the lung looses elasticity and volume. It's also pretty clear it causes vasoconsriction which of course causes hypertension. And recently the role of Interlukin-6 and it's detriments was determined. And of course smoking and other nicotine delivery systems increase IL-6 levels. But good news is excercise decreases them. Bad news, being fat increases them. So from the findings of that research it becomes more clear why fat sedintary people tend to have shorter life spans. Fat sedintary people who smoke should definitely look for a burial plot. We always knew this was the case but there was never a direct link. Rest assured there will be more direct links.
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neeterock
Jul 17, 2003, 6:53 PM
Post #38 of 41
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Registered: Jul 11, 2003
Posts: 35
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"fat sedentary people tend to have shorter life spans. Fat sedentary people who smoke should definitely look for a burial plot." I've got hope!!!! I'm not fat or sedintary! WooHoo!!!!! A little humor.... :o Moving on....I know I should quit...hey at least I have a real good mother of a reason! Thanks all. Shubs'
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rockzen
Jul 23, 2003, 3:15 AM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Feb 21, 2003
Posts: 236
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In reply to: Hi Lisa, to Answer your question about how long does it take? Well that totally depends on the route the objective and the commitment. First off within alpine climbing there style differences... Ha... that reminds me of Joe Simpson's last attempt on the Eiger. Took them longer to get up the nerve to make an attempt than they actually spent on the mountain. :lol: Can't say I blame them... :? I think I read somewhere that he's making another attempt this year?!? RockZen
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neeterock
Jul 23, 2003, 12:14 PM
Post #40 of 41
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Registered: Jul 11, 2003
Posts: 35
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Hey! question to all Alpinists, are you an Artist Alpinist or an Engineer? Artist being the more "flow-y" climber, listening to the mountain type thing while the engineer is more calculating. And is it better, in your views, to team up with the opposite. To feed off of each other? Shubs'
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alpinerockfiend
Jul 23, 2003, 5:05 PM
Post #41 of 41
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
Posts: 598
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As in life, the person who uses both attributes is the most successful.
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