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camhead
Aug 2, 2003, 8:08 PM
Post #26 of 77
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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Outer Limits 10b/c, Yosemite
Crack of Doom 11c, City of Rocks
first two pitches of Bastille Crack 5.7, Eldo
Capitol Roof 11b, Capitol Reef National Park
...and anything at Indian Creek
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trailbuzzard
Aug 3, 2003, 1:02 AM
Post #27 of 77
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 6
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For its grade, Gelsa in the Gunks
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bandycoot
Aug 3, 2003, 6:03 AM
Post #28 of 77
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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Regular Route Fairview dome
The pro is perfect, the climbing somehow better, and the views manage beat out both!
Josh
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roadguy
Aug 3, 2003, 1:40 PM
Post #29 of 77
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Posts: 52
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I've been away from the sport for a while but if my old ass memory serves me I always thought the NE Buttress of Higher Cathredral in the Valley as one of my favs. Here's a couple more I seem to remember as good too:
Third Pillar of Dana
The Red Diehedral on the Incredible Hulk
Bird of Fire
The Vampire
Super Pooper
Electric Ladyland
I"m sure there are lots more but memories dim and time flies by when you're having fun
bergheil
Pat
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the_dude
Aug 4, 2003, 5:17 AM
Post #30 of 77
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Registered: Jul 30, 2003
Posts: 221
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Hand down, my favorite is Serenity/Sons of yesterday. I was surprised to not see this on a anybodies list. Another I rank up high on my list is The Line at Lover's Leap.
Cheers
The Dude
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punk
Aug 4, 2003, 4:23 PM
Post #31 of 77
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
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Yeah the Gunks rule….but, what about stuff on Index town wall...Godzilla, Japanese gardens and more
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 4, 2003, 10:32 PM
Post #32 of 77
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In reply to: i hope i am not making people feel insecure about what trad routes they've done...but if you need to build yourselves up at my expense, go on'n do it. that poo makes me laugh. if you want me to be more specific about what climbs i was referring to...too bad.
How are you going to validate your already dubious opinion then?
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maculated
Aug 4, 2003, 10:37 PM
Post #33 of 77
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
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My absolute favorite to date is Hermaphrodite Flake. Why? I got into climbing because I love feeling like a kid again, scrambling on stuff. Going through that flake summed it all up for me.
There are some great climbs in Red Rocks on Brass Wall that top my list, too.
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jcinco
Aug 4, 2003, 11:30 PM
Post #34 of 77
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 395
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Eldorado Canyon: Naked Edge, Jules Verne, Captain Beyond, Center Route on Rincon, Climb of the Century, Over the Hill, Bastille Crack, Green Spur, Ruper->Alice in Bucketland
Lumpy: Romulan Territory, any of about 5 link-ups that end on Cheap Date->Outlander.
RMNP: Yellow Wall (Forrest Finish), Black Dagger, Birds of Fire
Vedauwoo: Friday the 13th, Max Factor
Sandias, NM:: Mountain Mama, Aviary Oort
Devil's Tower: Belle Fourche Buttress, One-way Sunset, Carol's Crack
Utah Desert: N Face Castleton, Fine Jade, Vision Quest, Sinestra (I.Creek), Quarter of a Man (I. Creek), Pente (I. Creek), Monkeyfinger (Zion)
Yosemite: Central Pillar of Frenzy, DNB (a great adventure), Rostrum NF, NE Buttress of HCR, Serenity/Sons, Astroman, Snake Dike, Oz->Hobbit Book (Tuolomne), Lucky Streaks (Tuolomne)
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petsfed
Aug 5, 2003, 12:48 AM
Post #35 of 77
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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In reply to: ... Vedauwoo: Friday the 13th, Max Factor ...
Most certainly. Edward's is probably the best easy to moderate climb I've ever done, and Friday the 13th is just a rad climb.
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iamthewallress
Aug 5, 2003, 1:05 AM
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In reply to: Really? Well, I seriously disagree with you on this. The direct start (although admittedly a heady boulder problem) turns a gnarly awful ropedrag fvckfest into a nice aesthetic climb.
Double ropes...The ziggy-zaggy is part of what makes it memorable. It wouldn't be on my list of best climbs anywhere though.
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deleted
Deleted
Aug 5, 2003, 1:37 AM
Post #37 of 77
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How are you going to validate your already dubious opinion then?
Just saying that some people don't feel the need to do a tribute to themselves, especially in their profile on this website called "rockclimbing.com" The whole thing just somehow reeks of insecurity.
Take my opinion, agree with it, or disregard it...I don't really care. This is a website. What kind of validity (or reality for that matter) is there at all in these forums? If you place too much into this website, and don't take it for what it is (good ol' new age cyber fun) then you might end up with a profile like alpinerockfiend's, which is a masterbatory sanctuary for the insercure person at the computer screen.
For me, it's a great way to waste time, and then, learn a bit about the human condition, through reactions that a person, who identifies himself as an "alpinerockfiend," may have if someone throws around the word "el cap" too nonchalantly. It's absolutely fascinating, rediculous, absurd, and (to me) funnier than hearing a gym climber stressing "safety" by compulsively backing up a well tied figure eight.
Here's my impression of how Joyce would respond: If you must know, I've never climbed El Cap. warren harding. No, that's not true! I have! I have! momma. I've climbed it more than a few times, up awesome routes, the best trad lines too! bad boy. No, don't lie, person whose name is "Mandrew," we must keep some sort of truth here on this website, or else what do we have? How else can there be any advancement of knowledge? Don't be dubious! Validate! Validate! But why? So we can know which trad routes are the best, of course. But I only know which routes are the best of the ones that I have done. How can I answer this question? What if I just want to feel better about myself by throwing around route names from around the country? Then, at least in this forum, I'll become the climber that I've always fantasized about. No, sir, you must validate or else we'll never know which routes are the best.
Hey, guess what? It doesn't matter.
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hasbeen
Aug 5, 2003, 1:50 AM
Post #38 of 77
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Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 543
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I made a long list but my computer crashed and I didn't have time to re-do it. Now I'm back and most of my list has been mentioned here or there. Here are a few that seem to be missing:
East Buttress of Middle, right variation - pitch after pitch of classic 5.7 or 8. Really superb and one of the best long routes I've done.
Cathedral Peak - even after many acents, it's still perhaps my favorite climb. Okay, it's easy but everything else about it is perfect, including the approach and summit.
Oz - "best climb I've ever done" was what I said the first time I did it. Maybe not still, but very good nonetheless.
Lucky Streaks - A good second when the reg route is crowded. Maybe even a better route too. One of Tuolumne's best--certainly better than the Third Pillar.
Fine Jade - How come this and the Moses route... man, gettin' old... Pale.. no, the other one... aren't up here yet? Both are way better than Kor-Ingalls, which isn't even the best route on Castleton.
Bear's Reach - Lover's Leap - I think it's even better than The Line. Many classics on this wall.
Are bolted routes trad if they're long? How about Survielle et Punir (Pilar?)--whatever, my French sucks--at Verdon? This wall is incredible to climb, via almost any route I've tried. Also, starting off the summit of a 2,000' wall and descending is a pretty cool experience.
Best single pitches:
Equinox - just for the way it looks, even though I thought the first 15' super painful for my finger size.
Mr Natural - the low angle version of the above.
Panic in Detroit - For pure movement, one the my favorite pitches ever.
Did a bunch of ultra-classic pitches on the grit but the names escape me, or maybe I never knew them. Almost every grit pitch is classic.
and, of course (and how is it left off the list?)
The Nutcracker - worth the hype!
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 5, 2003, 2:44 AM
Post #39 of 77
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In reply to: How are you going to validate your already dubious opinion then? Just saying that some people don't feel the need to do a tribute to themselves, especially in their profile on this website called "rockclimbing.com" The whole thing just somehow reeks of insecurity. Take my opinion, agree with it, or disregard it...I don't really care. This is a website. What kind of validity (or reality for that matter) is there at all in these forums? If you place too much into this website, and don't take it for what it is (good ol' new age cyber fun) then you might end up with a profile like alpinerockfiend's, which is a masterbatory sanctuary for the insercure person at the computer screen.
You know, I posted my first response to your "any route on el cap beats that" quip in an attempt to eliminate the waste responses that often come with a thread like this one. Asking you to show your tick list obviously struck a nerve, which culminated in your defensive and hotheaded diatribe. I didn't mean it literally, and I'm sorry if I mistook you for one of the thousand gumbies on this site. I didn't see any info in your profile, and many of your posts just reinforced what I thought.
I try to keep up with my tick list on this site as a means of recording, for myself and others, what I've accomplished through climbing. It's not because I'm some spraylord who is seeking a "masterbatory sanctuary for the insecure person....", it's because I'm proud of my climbs and what I've acheived with my chief passtime. Also.... If I ever seek a partner on this site, I want them to have a good idea of my level of experience as well as what level I currently climb at. I would want the same from them. An experienced Yosemite climber such as yourself should know better than to choose a partner who's in over his head! In addition, people seeking beta on routes or areas can get definitive and accurate beta from me if they see "alpinerockfiend" on the list of ascentionists. This has happened a number of times, and I am psyched to help people out with info they might not otherwise get.
From your last post, I get the idea that you dont' place a whole lot of importance on justification. I obviously do. I like to have reasons for the things I do. It's nothing personal, I just feel the need to resond when attacked. I wish you the happiest ascents of classic trad routes all over the country!
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 5, 2003, 2:07 PM
Post #40 of 77
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And I should've put this in a PM.... this is supposed to be a thread about classic trad routes! Shit.
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crankenstein
Aug 5, 2003, 2:46 PM
Post #41 of 77
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Registered: Dec 20, 2002
Posts: 164
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Lots of good one's already mentioned. I'll agree that East Butress of Middle Cathedral right variation is one of the best. Some that I haven't seen yet that are some of my favorites are Outer Space, West Buttress and Vertigo in Eldorado, and Pear Butress, Kor's Flake and Mainliner at Lumpy Ridge. Another really memorable climb for me was Sunblessed at Squamish.
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rockitjeff
Aug 9, 2003, 3:47 AM
Post #42 of 77
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Registered: Jul 13, 2002
Posts: 143
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My vote is ANYTHING in the Needles of So Cal.
More specifically- Don Juan,
with honorable mention going to Atlantis and Thin Ice.
Tho best of show is Romantic Warrior; just ..I won't be climbing THAT until my next lifetime. Sure ain't happening in this one...
Hey and guess what? Pat Nay just joined rc.com. Another old skcoool So Cal. Purty kewl.
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markf
Aug 9, 2003, 4:24 AM
Post #43 of 77
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Registered: Nov 6, 2002
Posts: 12
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Nobody's mentioned Braille Book? I do agree with Serenity/Sons, NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock, and Reid's Direct. The Good Book deserves a mention, as does Oz/Gram Traverse in Tuolumne Meadows. Crescent Arch is worthy of a mention too, IMHO.
mark
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 9, 2003, 7:35 AM
Post #44 of 77
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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The east: NH MOBY GRAPE 5.8
VERTIGO 5.9R
RECOMBEAST 5.9 W/PROW FINISH 10a
ATLANTIS 10b
LOST SOLES 10b
DIDRE 10A
THE BOOK10a
INFERNO 5.8
NY/DAKS
HESSITATION 5.8
OVERTURE 5.9+
BLODY MARY 5.9
GUNKS
ROSELAND 5.9 (TO THE TOP)
GRAND CENTRAL 5.9
DIRECTISIMA 5.9
A WHOLE BUNCH OF OTHER STUUF I AM TOO DRUNK TO REMEMBER :shock:
SENECA WV
EXTACY 5.7
PLEASANT O'S 5.7
ALCOA 5.8
SOLER 5.7
TRIPPLE S 5.8+
CRACK OF DAWN 10a
HIGH TEST 9+
GUNSIGHT TO SOUTH PEAK DIRECT 5.4 ( DOSEN'T MATTER IF YOU ARE A 5.12 CLIMBER, THIS RT. ROCKS)
GREENWALL 5.7
VT
MONKEY 5.8 & MONKEY DIRECT 10b
PIT & PENDULUM 5.9
THE FULL MONTE 10b
CENTER CRACK 5.7
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coclimber26
Aug 10, 2003, 1:29 AM
Post #45 of 77
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
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Yellow Spur, Eldorado Canyon 5.10a
Reggae, Eldorado Canyon 5.8
East face, 1st Flatiron 5.6
Overleaf, 11 mile canyon 5.8
Staircase, 11 mile canyon 5.5
Any route in the Oberreintal, Germany.
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climbaholic
Aug 29, 2003, 6:36 AM
Post #46 of 77
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Registered: Aug 20, 2003
Posts: 34
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Tetons: Caveat Emptor, Snaz, Dihedral of Horrors, Irene's Arete
Winds: Central Corner of Haystack, NE Face Pingora
Yosemite: Great White Book, Bishop's Terrace, Regular RT - Fairview, West Crack - Daff, Snake Dike, La Cossita Right, Braille Book
J-Tree: Dbl Cross, Geronimo, Touch and Go, Sail Away
Red Rocks: Geronimo, Frogland, Tunnel Vision, Dark Shadows
Gunks: V-3, Modern Times, Madame G, Yellow Ridge, Limelight, Bonnie's, Shockley's, High E....there's just too many!!
Desert: Stolen Chimney - Ancient Art,
NH: Recompense, Whitney-Gilman, Moby Grape w/ Reppy's
Squamish: Rock On, The Zip, Penny Lane, Snake
Eldo: Bastille Crack
Maine: A Dare by the Sea, Rock Lobster
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mreardon
Aug 29, 2003, 6:18 PM
Post #47 of 77
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
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"Figures on a Landscape" - Joshua Tree
"Vampire" - Tahquitz
And everything at the Needles sucks. Stay away. All the routes blow chunks. :)
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joshy8200
Aug 29, 2003, 7:51 PM
Post #48 of 77
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
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I have to speak from somewhat of a limited view...since I have no idea what any routes are like west of the Red River Gorge, KY. But I'll take a shot a listing some places in the east:
"High Exposure" The Gunks, NY 5.6
"Zoo View" Moore's Wall, NC 5.7
"Bumble Bee Buttress" Linville Gorge, NC 5.8
"Dopey Duck" Linville Gorge, NC 5.9
"Lost in Space" Hawksbill, NC 5.10
"Encore/Fat Lady" Hawksbill, NC 5.11
Haven't Climbed myself...but just to put out some routes for others to see and talk about:
"Sinchronicity" Red River Gorge, KY 5.11
"The Open Book" Linville Gorge, NC 5.11
"Turkey Beard" Linville Gorge, NC 5.12
I guess my list was a little more preferenced to NC than I thought it would be...but it is my home state. And I think that Linville Gorge is the place for trad in the east. I think big numbers are going to go up there in the near future.
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vegastradguy
Aug 29, 2003, 9:28 PM
Post #49 of 77
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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Red Rocks: Ginger Cracks (5.9), Group Therapy(5.7R), Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9), Jubilant Song (5.8 ), Waterstreak (5.10b), Scalawag (5.10+), Ragged Edges (5.8 ), The Great Red Book (5.8 PG)
Some of these climbs have a beast of an approach (3 hours or more), but are completely worth it. The 1st two listed are my all time RR fav multipitches.
Yosemite: Nutcracker (5.8 ), Munginella (5.6), Royal Arches (5.8 variation). My partners did Braille Book (5.10c Variation) and said it was amazing, so I'll toss it in there. I also want to do Serenity/Sons!!!
I put Royal Arches in because I really enjoyed the length of the route, and the technical climbing on the route is stellar. The 4th class I could do without, but the climbing itself rocked. I'll also say that I havent seen a crack in Yosemite that I havent wanted to climb!
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 30, 2003, 5:30 AM
Post #50 of 77
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In reply to: Tetons: Caveat Emptor, Snaz, Dihedral of Horrors, Irene's Arete Winds: Central Corner of Haystack, NE Face Pingora
WHOO HOO! Somebody finally recognizes a few WY trad routes! Excellent.
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