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alpnclmbr1
Aug 17, 2003, 6:05 PM
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In reply to: If you tie in with a non energy absorbing sling/daisy, allow a foot or two of slack to accumulate, and slip or get jerked onto the anchors by a fall, you've effectively applied a funkness device to your anchor, your 100+ lb. body replacing the 1lb. hammer. (that's why the pockets on most aid daises are designed to blow out at around 500lb.)
using a daisychain clipped to one of the middle pockets effectively creates an energy absorbing device as opposed to being a funkness device. It does extend as it absorbs but the trade off is acceptable and worth the slightly decrease in overall strength due to the stitching.
In reply to: The clove hitch is so simple and fast to use for semi hanging situations where you want to lean back on the anchor, there's really no reason to complicate things further. |
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brutusofwyde
Aug 18, 2003, 11:13 PM
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In reply to: The best one I've heard lately involved carrying a 48" sling utilizing a biner clipped through the ends. That way, when you grab for a long sling - you can pull it off with out pulling over your head and without getting caught up in your other slings. Simply unhook the biner and pull - it comes right out.
Karl Baba showed me a trick with these slings: double the sling, (wrap around the carabiner spine such that the sling forms 2 loops) then give the sling about 5 or 6 twists, then clip the end loop into the carabiner. The result is a compact package that can be clipped to harness or gear sling, takes about as much room as a screamer. to use, unclip one end, shake, and use. Thanks Karlee!
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skiorclimb
Aug 18, 2003, 11:41 PM
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You can always use a clove hitch to tie into the anchor. If you prefer to use a cordelet you just clip a pear shaped locker to the power point and clove hitch that at what ever you think is a suitable length. If you find you want to change the length of your' tie in it is easily adjustable. With a daisy you have to unclip to adjust it.
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crotch
Aug 19, 2003, 12:10 AM
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In reply to: I prefer to always be directly anchored to and weighting at least two pieces. (Unless it is a bomber tree) I haven’t found a practical way to accomplish this without something besides the rope unless the gear is in a straight line above you in which case you can come close to doing it with just the rope and clove hitches.
You can use slings to equalize and then tie into the equalized point with the rope. The point the greytradster is trying to make is that you don't want a sling connection directly between your harness and the anchor.
Knots that can be used to equalize an anchor with the rope include bowline on a bight and the "atomic clip". I won't try to explain how to tie them as I'd only confuse you.
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dingus
Aug 19, 2003, 12:15 AM
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Keep a fresh cigarette in one of those super glue containers with the red cap. Just big enough for the job without being too big for a pocket. Almost impossible to crush. Now you'll be ready for that summit smoke.
DMT
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josher
Aug 19, 2003, 12:34 AM
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I keep a length (6"+/-) of heavy guage wire (like electricions use). Twist tight around the tip of your rope and make a hook on the end. walla, instant booty hook. Now you can fish out dropped gear or booty from cracks and hard to reach areas.
I cant tell you how many carabiners and slings i've rescued/found.
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 19, 2003, 2:32 AM
Post #32 of 140
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Don't be afraid to grab gear and french a bit on long rt's if you are haveing a hard time figureing somthing out. I really hate freezeing my arse off and running out of daylight because my partner diccked arround and wasted 45 min trying to free a move on the 11th pitch of somthing :roll:
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bustinmins
Aug 28, 2003, 12:04 AM
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After getting stuck as the second behind a much better climber on a route that was at my personal limit, the lead hauled me up twice(10 inches each time) using the Z pulley. That was a nice trick to know as a lead.
Frustrated at having to be hauled up on this route - I did some reading in "Freedom of the Hills" and will use a Texas Prusik next time to shorten the time that I am stuck after repeatedly trying the crux. What can I say - it was my first route - I didn't know what to expect. :)
James
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karlbaba
Aug 28, 2003, 6:52 AM
Post #34 of 140
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If your locking biner gets stuck in the locked position and it's unweighted, weight it hard and then try to unscrew it. If it's weighted and stuck, try it unweighted.
Belay the second from the powerpoint of an equalized anchor with a gri-gri. Casual and if you need to escape the belay, haul your partner, or take pictures, that's easy too.
Get a leg of panty hose and put a block of chalk in it, the put it in your chalkbag. Cheaper than chalk balls and reusable.
Peace
karl
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chugach001
Aug 28, 2003, 6:15 PM
Post #35 of 140
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Munter Hitch
Biner break
Prussik
V-thread for ice
Always watch the weather
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bustinmins
Aug 30, 2003, 2:04 PM
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I just started leading trad and a friend of mine recommended to me that I climb this super simple route that was my first trad lead(west crack, whale's tail, Eldorado Canyon) and primarily place one type of protection. He didn't say to ONLY place one type but rather PRIMARILY and as you ascend think this will be a nut route or my goal is to place as many hexes as possible. That way you can see more on your route and you will learn more climbing something that is familiar but also learning to see the same route differently. This way you don't develop any dependence or give too much priority to placing any one type of equipment - ie cams.
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jeffvoigt
Aug 30, 2003, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: vegastradguy (thegreytradster to although you mentioned a webolette prev.) I prefer a daisy to a cordelette because it is lighter and quicker and you can still get some equalization, so one clove hitch and one daisy is what I use and always have.(I clip the rope in again somewhere to)
Actually using a clove hitch to anchor yourself into the system is lighter and just as quick as using a daisy. As far as equilization just clove hitch yourself to a biner that is clipped to the main anchor point in your system. Now you will be equalized to all of your pro at the anchor. if bringing up the second with an ATC or similar device just clip an additional biner to the main anchor point and run the rope from your device through that biner. if using a reverso or auto locking device just set it up on the main anchor point and adjust the clove hitch so that you can belay the second comfortably.
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bustinmins
Sep 10, 2003, 5:59 PM
Post #38 of 140
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Any other tricks to put into your fellow climbers bag? I know we have had 1800 or so people look at this section and only 3 pages of replies - I'm sure there have to be others out there with good tricks to share.
Won't you please post some more....we newbies and pros alike would like to hear your comments.
Peace,
James
Aurora, CO
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crotch
Sep 10, 2003, 6:09 PM
Post #39 of 140
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At walls I like to make it easy to clip and unclip the haul line or lead line from the anchor, which can often be hard when the power point is under load. To facilitate this, I girth hitch some 12" slings through the power point so that I can clip into one set, my partner can clip into another, and the bags can be clipped yet another. This makes it easy to unclip from the anchor while it's weighted.
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caughtinside
Sep 10, 2003, 6:16 PM
Post #40 of 140
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I run my daisy between my legs and clip it to the back of my harness. DOesn't create the clutter that running it arount the side does.
I also prefer to equalize anchors with webbing rather than cordelette, less bulky crap to lug around.
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bustinmins
Sep 10, 2003, 6:28 PM
Post #41 of 140
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excellent advice about the Daisy - i've been putting it under everything but through the middle would work better - good one!
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crankenstein
Sep 10, 2003, 7:00 PM
Post #42 of 140
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For long back country routes make a photo copy of the route topo and laminate it in clear packing tape and put it in the pocket of your chalkbag or pack. It spares you the weight of a guide book and is virtually indestructable.
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jetson
Sep 10, 2003, 7:08 PM
Post #43 of 140
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One tip I've heard is to always keep a "emergency biner". This biner has a few emergency items clipped to it such as a flashlight, knife, cord, whistle, matches, etc. That way you are never without crucial items and they are clipped right on your harness for convenience.
Put whatever you feel you need on it....obviously don't place large, heavy objects on it or it will be cumbersome.
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 10, 2003, 7:20 PM
Post #44 of 140
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for short snow approaches on an alpine climb you can hose clamp your nut tool to a biner to make an ice pick.
when carrying a double rack on a shoulder sling, clip your doubled up piece biner into the biner of the first piece instead of the gear sling.
keep a few starburst in your chalk bag for when you run out of water.
you can use your gear sling as a runner when you get desperate.
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herm
Sep 11, 2003, 1:33 AM
Post #45 of 140
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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the best thing you can do is to learn to simplify and to be resourceful. Rely on technique, not gear. Trust yer hindbrain. See my ten essentials list on my webbsite:
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bustinmins
Sep 11, 2003, 2:48 PM
Post #46 of 140
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In reply to: One tip I've heard is to always keep a "emergency biner". This biner has a few emergency items clipped to it such as a flashlight, knife, cord, whistle, matches, etc. That way you are never without crucial items and they are clipped right on your harness for convenience. Put whatever you feel you need on it....obviously don't place large, heavy objects on it or it will be cumbersome.
I do this as well. I keep a "Texas Prusik", a cord for a standard prusik and two emergency rap screw bolts on one biner that I keep under my chalk bag.
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kman
Sep 11, 2003, 3:55 PM
Post #47 of 140
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In reply to: clip the end *behind* the knot and begin to rappel. The 'biner will pull the knot along with you.
Not good at all if you are rapping directly off of webbing or cord!
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cracklover
Sep 11, 2003, 4:20 PM
Post #48 of 140
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When seconding, I clip my nut tool to a short piece of phone cord that I've permanently attached to one of my gear loops, and then clip the biner into the gear loop. When I'm not using it, the phone cord assumes its natural "twisty" shape, and takes up almost no space. And when I need the tool, I just unclip the biner from the gear loop and the phone cord stretches out to it's full length. Because the tool is always tethered to my harness, I don't have to worry about dropping it.
GO
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mattm
Sep 11, 2003, 4:33 PM
Post #49 of 140
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Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
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Couple Here...
1) On hard leads where I'll be carrying a lot of gear - the worst thing in the world is to have the biner flipped the wrong way so you struggle to take it off the gear sling. Buy some petzl strings and put them on your cams - bingo - gates always facing the right way!
2) Rack nuts on Oval Keylocks (KONG) - you can hold a whole set of em on one biner
3) Hard to do these days but my budy used to buy anodized carabiners that matched his cam colors - red for the # camalot, yellow etc. This was an awesome setup.
4)Buy a chalk bag with a zip pocket. Fill with rap ring (or small screwlink - better) BD ion headlamp and a razor blade wrapped in cardboard and duct tape - anti-epic kit that weighs next to nothing - oh yeah - your calk bag belt should be a piece of 9/16th climb spec
Got soem speed climbing ones but they'll be for later
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bustinmins
Sep 11, 2003, 5:52 PM
Post #50 of 140
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In reply to: In reply to: clip the end *behind* the knot and begin to rappel. The 'biner will pull the knot along with you. Not good at all if you are rapping directly off of webbing or cord!
Very good point! This method will only work with chain anchors or if you choose to leave some biners up top. VERY GOOD ADVICE!
JD
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