Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
getting into aid
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jimdavis


Oct 5, 2003, 11:59 PM
Post #26 of 27 (2246 views)
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935

Re: getting into aid [In reply to]
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so when using the one gri-gri and ascender combo, do you guys run the brake end of the gri gri back up to the acsender through a pully or something along those lines?
If you run the brake end back up through a pulley (or carabiner) attached to the ascender then you get 2:1 leverage when pulling on the brake end, ie. less work.

Um, Work is a constant. There is no way to lessen it. If your using a 2:1 then your applying half the effort to twice the distance, thus Work is the same.

Also why would you be doing that to jug? Your Gri-Gri is just acting like a second ascender, you just pull slack through and sit down on it when you go to move your top ascender up. I don't see what the point is in redirecting the rope that you've just jugged.

Also, I can say from experience that if you plan to ascend a line, then have some kind of mechanical ascender to use. I've gone up 40' or so a few times with prussik's and kleimheists and they absolutly suck. They work but they are a pain in the A$$ to use. The Wild Country Rope Man goes for like $30 and it's pretty small.

If your going to be doing it all the time, handled ascenders are the way to go.


geezergecko


Oct 6, 2003, 1:40 AM
Post #27 of 27 (2246 views)
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Registered: Mar 26, 2002
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Re: getting into aid [In reply to]
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Yes, you are correct. Work = Force x Distance. Half the force times twice the distance equals the same amount of work. Yet somehow I find it easier to have that mechanical advantage. By pulling on the rope after it passes through the pulley attached to the upper toothed ascender from the grigri which is the lower ascender, I can assist myself up. Like pulling on an adjustable daisy. Sure I can use my feet and body to lift myself up but the lazy part of me appreciates the extra help a pulley hand yank can provide.

It was one of those cases where I saw it in Climbing magazine aid tech tip, tried it, and liked it. Your preference may vary.

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