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tenn_dawg
Oct 20, 2003, 6:17 PM
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Last weekend I was trying to onsight a 5.10 trad climb. I climbed up about 35 feet, and got to an alcove under a roof. It was big enough to stand in totally no hands, and really was more of a ledge than anything.
The roof moves were the supposed crux, so I climbed up, placed some pro, then climbed back down to the ledge so I could be rested for the moves.
After a couple minutes rest, I climbed up, fired the roof, and pulled into the thin fingercrack above. About 5 feet higher, I placed a small cam, and while trying to clip the rope, I popped off, and the extra slack in the rope allowed me to deck on the ledge 10 feet below.
Somehow I didn't fall off the ledge (I still don't know how) and miraculously escaped injury. After gathering my sences and resting, I went on to pull the crux again, and finish the last 30 feet of thin fingers after it.
My question is, was my ascent an onsight? I mean, I never weighted the rope or anything, so it should have been. I need to know so I can plug it into "my ascents" correctly.
Travis
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inflight
Oct 20, 2003, 6:20 PM
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I vote for Red Point. It was your second attempt on the same terrain. You fell off the route even though the rope did not arrest your fall.
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w6jxm
Oct 20, 2003, 6:23 PM
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If this was by anybody other than tenn dawg i would shout TROLL, but since I doubt this is the case I'll consider it. If you did not weight the rope, did not weight the pro, did not grab the rope or gear, did not touch the ground, I would consider it a high impact rest. I say count it as an onsight. Just don't make a habit out of it. :lol:
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edge
Oct 20, 2003, 6:32 PM
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If you can repeat it in the same style, fall and everything, then I'll give you the onsight. Otherwise, you have created your own category of ascent, the dynamic, unweighted, multiple attempt.
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eastsidemystic
Oct 20, 2003, 6:50 PM
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In reply to: I would consider it a high impact rest.
ROTFL. i only laugh because he fortunately was not injured. i say call it an onsight.
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andypro
Oct 20, 2003, 6:55 PM
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If you downclimb, and do it again, it's still an onsight, no? All you did was a dyno in the gravitational direction of flow :wink: a downclimb dyno if you will.
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the_pirate
Oct 20, 2003, 6:57 PM
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And the Brass Balls Award goes to.......
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mike_hunt
Oct 20, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Onsight: A successful first attempt, with no falls, no previous knowledge of the route through beta other than a topo and what can be gleened by first hand "glassing" of a route.
You tried to onsight but failed. If you then proceeded from that point of the fall to the top, it is not a Redpoint. A redpoint is ground to top with no falls (or hangs), but with previous experience on the route.
Your effort is a Failed Onsight. Good try, and way to persevere in making it to the top while avoiding injury.
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andypro
Oct 20, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Mike...
If you fall, and happen to catch yourself on a hold a few feet down, then continue to climb, is it still not an onsight? He never hung on the rope, never huing on gear, never touched the "ground" (start of the climb)...he basically caught himself.
Talk about a grey area! Sheesh! :lol: :roll:
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bandycoot
Oct 20, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Ever had a foot slip, or even two? I've fallen completely off, but grabbed the jug I was going to mid fall and swung but stuck it. I fell, but still got an "onsight." I definitely think that you're still in onsight territory. I think that to get a route clean, the rope and pro can't have helped you in any way. If you were soloing you still would have made it to the top sans injuries, therefore it is an onsight. :lol:
Great story,
Josh
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vertical_reality
Oct 20, 2003, 7:10 PM
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The definition of on-sight in the climbing terms say that there can be no falls and technically you did fall off the route. But what in the hell do I know, let some of the more experienced climbers give their opinions.
Pretty funny story though. :lol:
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vertical_reality
Oct 20, 2003, 7:11 PM
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In reply to: If you were soloing you still would have made it to the top sans injuries, therefore it is an onsight. :lol: Great story, Josh
Woooo, that's a good point!
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mike_hunt
Oct 20, 2003, 7:18 PM
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In reply to: Mike... If you fall, and happen to catch yourself on a hold a few feet down, then continue to climb, is it still not an onsight? He never hung on the rope, never huing on gear, never touched the "ground" (start of the climb)...he basically caught himself. Talk about a grey area! Sheesh! :lol: :roll:
Maybe, but I think getting stopped by a ledge isn't the same thing as catching oneself, but what the heck do I know? :) I just thought the definitions were narrowly construed and needed to stay that way by avoiding any grey areas, I certainly wasn't trying to take away from an accomplishement. It is just when the caption reads: "DECKS on a ledge...." one cannot really also claim an onsight.
And to make matter even greyer....I think all variants of the word deck pertain only to groundfalls. With ledges I prefer to use crashed into, landed on, hit, or whacked. :wink:
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thrillseeker05
Oct 20, 2003, 7:20 PM
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Nowhere does it ever say that an onsite is if you make the climb with no injuries. If you just slipped but actually caught yourself you basically prevented a fall by your own means.. but in this situation you actually did fall. You were just lucky you didn’t fall more or hurt yourself. So consider it just that, “lucky”. This is no way an onsite. Go back and get your red point.
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johnfromohio
Oct 20, 2003, 7:28 PM
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In reply to: Nowhere does it ever say that an onsite is if you make the climb with no injuries. If you just slipped but actually caught yourself you basically prevented a fall by your own means.. but in this situation you actually did fall. You were just lucky you didn’t fall more or hurt yourself. So consider it just that, “lucky”. This is no way an onsite. Go back and get your red point.
gotta disagree
granted he did this one accidentally, what if he did it on purpose to be lazy and prevent a downclimb pump :?
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alpnclmbr1
Oct 20, 2003, 7:30 PM
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In the context of a onsight, you fell, no more onsight. If on the other hand you had purposely jumped back down to the ledge, I would have still given you the onsight.
In the context of a red point you didn't use the rope which is usually implied in a red point fall. I would sat you did red point it because effectively you caught yourself before weighting the rope, which is allowed.
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dynoguy
Oct 20, 2003, 7:31 PM
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In reply to: If this was by anybody other than tenn dawg i would shout TROLL, but since I doubt this is the case I'll consider it. If you did not weight the rope, did not weight the pro, did not grab the rope or gear, did not touch the ground, I would consider it a high impact rest. I say count it as an onsight. Just don't make a habit out of it. :lol:
that hilarious :lol:
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antigrav
Oct 20, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to: gotta disagree granted he did this one accidentally, what if he did it on purpose to be lazy and prevent a downclimb pump :?
That's something else. He stated that he fell. It was not on purpose. My vote goes to "failed attempt, but nice try and cool story!"
8) :lol: :P :shock:
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johnfromohio
Oct 20, 2003, 7:51 PM
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antigrav
yes but i am saying what if he did it on purpose, what would we consider that to be :lol:
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capn_morgan
Oct 20, 2003, 8:59 PM
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only thing ive got to add is an observation of what the big boys are doing. In one of climbing rags, they were talking about sharma's onsight of tennesee in france(?) . He came off of one hold but caught himself on a lower hold. They called it an onsight..so if you fell to a ledge and didnt weight the rope i guess as far as they are concerend you got it. Maybe say that if you could have climbed it without a rope and survived?
good story anyway
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xcire
Oct 20, 2003, 9:13 PM
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In reply to: If you downclimb, and do it again, it's still an onsight, no? All you did was a dyno in the gravitational direction of flow :wink: a downclimb dyno if you will.
very nice glad to see ya thinking. Never thought of it that way
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inflight
Oct 20, 2003, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: .. but in this situation you actually did fall. You were just lucky you didn’t fall more or hurt yourself. So consider it just that, “lucky”. This is no way an onsite. Go back and get your red point.
It appears we need a new term to describe an unintentional, survivable, not-weighting the rope, actually falling off the route ten feet on one pitch only ascent.
How about
Lucky sight
Lucky point
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addiroids
Oct 20, 2003, 9:16 PM
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Dude, this is still totally an onsight. The important key here is weighting the rope, NOT having rehersed the moves and downclimbing (dude, that's the KEY to onsighting stuff sometimes) or that he happened to fall onto a ledge.
It was an onsight. It is basically saying you could have solo'ed the route without dying. That's the onsight. You never had to use the gear. I ask for slack sometimes if there is a ledge below a hard move and I am trying to onsight something. There is a route on Suicide, that comes to mind. There is a crimpy 10b move off a 3' wide ledge with a bolt 7 feet above the ledge. Although I didn't get the onsight, when I climb it again, I ask for slack just incase I do fall.
Onsight bro. That's what climbing is about.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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sauron
Oct 20, 2003, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: NOT having rehersed the moves and downclimbing (dude, that's the KEY to onsighting stuff sometimes)
So where's the difference between a project, that I work for months before flashing (a redpoint), and climbing it, making it to the top the very first time I try, with no downclimbing, no falls, or anything.
- d.
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