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okinawatricam
Jan 30, 2004, 12:07 AM
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What is your favorite offwidth
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iamthewallress
Jan 30, 2004, 12:09 AM
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Chingando!
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hangdoggypound
Jan 30, 2004, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: What is your favorite offwidth |
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the_crawler
Jan 30, 2004, 12:16 AM
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The one I just got off of!!!!
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the_crawler
Jan 30, 2004, 12:17 AM
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Fantasia!
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calamity_chk
Jan 30, 2004, 12:28 AM
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The Eliminator
Difficulty: 5.10c
Protection: TR from bolt or number one camalots and small cams
Description: Great hand jams and layback moves. Short but great problem
kicks my ass every time .. i'm so in love.
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petsfed
Jan 30, 2004, 12:29 AM
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Lucille
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davidji
Jan 30, 2004, 12:31 AM
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Pony Express. The OW part isn't too long or too hard, but it keeps the crowding down on the 2nd pitch.
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dwise
Jan 30, 2004, 12:32 AM
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Isn't 'favorite offwidth' an oxymoron?
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edge
Jan 30, 2004, 12:40 AM
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Low Exposure at the Gunks was fun.
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jhump
Jan 30, 2004, 12:42 AM
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Crescent Moon, NRG
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crotch
Jan 30, 2004, 1:02 AM
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The Crucible, Mt. Woodson
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takeme
Jan 30, 2004, 1:16 AM
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Your mom!
Just kidding...in reality, the second to last pitch of Pervertical Sanctuary on Long's Peak. Incredible exposure & position, nice variety of moves (hands and fists to a long section of 4-5 inches which involve stemming, liebacking, and arm/knee jams) while still retaining that grunting quality. Although some might claim that it's not a "real" offwidth. Which may be why it's my favorite.
Charles
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cracklover
Jan 30, 2004, 2:10 AM
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In reply to: The Eliminator ... Great hand jams and ...
Um... is it just me? offwidth? hand jams?
???
GO
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davidji
Jan 30, 2004, 2:14 AM
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In reply to: Um... is it just me? offwidth? hand jams? |
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edge
Jan 30, 2004, 2:14 AM
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In reply to: Low Exposure at the Gunks was fun.
Whoa!!!!! Brain cramp!!!!!!!!!!!!111 Low Exposure was fun, but the most juicy off width that I have ever had the pleasue of tangoing with is definately Generator Crack in the Valley. Truly Yummy; size 12 feet rule for off width.
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mesomorf
Jan 30, 2004, 2:28 AM
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Granite: Twilight Zone
Sandstone: Cactus Flower, Indian Creek. Not really offwidth, but pretty
darn wide from base to canyon rim.
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climbingcam
Jan 30, 2004, 2:46 AM
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Generator crack for sure, the Mace in sedona was also pretty memorable.
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mistymountainhop
Jan 30, 2004, 2:46 AM
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the one that i dont lead or Fear of Flying at Cedars Bluff in So ill
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smithclimber
Jan 30, 2004, 3:10 AM
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In reply to: Isn't 'favorite offwidth' an oxymoron?
I thought so.
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bvb
Jan 30, 2004, 3:13 AM
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cream -- yosemite
runners up:
bad ass mama -- yosemite
mother superior -- woodson
the brief but brilliant ow section of kaukulator -- yosemite
i am sad and embarrased to admit i've never done the twilight zone. my bad.
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okinawatricam
Jan 30, 2004, 3:32 AM
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Fear of flying at Cedar in Southern Il is cool.
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granitegod
Jan 30, 2004, 3:50 AM
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I love Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. Old School 5.7 ..... catches alot of 5.9 leaders off guard....(and sends 5.7 leaders whimpering home).
Also, the Trough pitch on the Thumb, another 5.7......
Kor-Ingalls route, Castleton Tower..... 5.9+, not too bad if you lay it back and then stem on some crystals....but you still have an unprotected 5.8 chimney above.....
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deleted
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Jan 30, 2004, 4:16 AM
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yo', it's da one I just got off widf
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tradkelly
Jan 30, 2004, 4:25 AM
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Fantasia at Vedauwoo was by far the coolest one I've ever had the pleasure of. Or, as it were, had it's pleasure with me. I love the rating - 5.10, then downrated to 5.9 when the locals learned how to do OW technique. Classic. I can't figure out how the heck to protect it on lead... and pass the pro. But then again, it'd be awfully difficult to fall out of.
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atg200
Jan 30, 2004, 4:35 AM
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fantasia is cool. i backed off the lead when i couldn't get gear in that pod about 12 feet up.
low exposure at the gunks is cool. lots of punishment per foot, and you always get a crowd of hecklers.
honeymoon chimney on the priest is really something. if kor-ingalls was hard for you, don't even think about it.
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philbox
Moderator
Jan 30, 2004, 5:07 AM
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Hmmm, hafta be a toss up between Nemesis or Cock Crack at Frog Buttress,South East Queensland Oz.
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okinawatricam
Jan 30, 2004, 5:12 AM
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Crack of Fear: Although I have never finished the third pitch, has to be the best OW ever. Large gear, good rock, and excelent exposure. I tought someone would have mentioned it by now.
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 5:19 AM
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The Creation of the World. A fine Ken Nichols route up the overhanging face of Moss cliff, in the Adirondaks.
This 4 pitch route is a continuos and sustained offwidth that runs up the entire left side of this impressive wall, just right of the arete. Each pitch weighs in @ 5.10+, but be prepared for a typical Nichols effort at sandbagging.
Exposed, commiting from the start, and relentless. A fine feather in the cap of any true afficiando.
Personally, when I see the letters: O.W. on a topo, I presume it to mean: other way
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okinawatricam
Jan 30, 2004, 5:35 AM
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Doctor please tell me more. I'll be in that part of the country this summer and may need to look that up.
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rmiller
Jan 30, 2004, 5:37 AM
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The one that pops immediately into my mind is Honeymoon Chimney in Castle Valley. Others that were fun though are:
King Cat at Indian Creek, the ear pitch of Primrose Dihedrals, Texas flake on the Nose, lower pitches of Epinephrine in redrocks. There are many more, but I cannot remember them all right now.
Ronnie
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sbclimber
Jan 30, 2004, 6:48 AM
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In reply to: The Eliminator Difficulty: 5.10c Protection: TR from bolt or number one camalots and small cams Description: Great hand jams and layback moves. Short but great problem
Anyways, someone much wiser than I once told me what OW truly stands for...other way, as in there's gotta be another way up.
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t-dog
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Jan 30, 2004, 7:26 AM
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Hobbit Hole Offwidth out behind HVCG
OK, so it's only 15 feet tall but it's still sweet as all hell!!!!!!!!!!
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shakylegs
Jan 30, 2004, 12:49 PM
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edge, i did a double-take also when you wrote low exposure. greasy, scary, awful roof. still fun to try though.
atg, you get hecklers, but you also get encouragers. better than hudson's, imho.
okinawa, moss cliff is in the whiteface region of the adirondacks. your best best would be to go after july, because of the peregrine closures.
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goodman
Jan 30, 2004, 1:10 PM
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Miami - in Sedona, 3 pitches off the deck, feet above your head, flared and sandy; does it get any better? Another cool one is at Rumbling Bald in NC, called whipping Post, hand/fist stacks and levitation, way cool!
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piton
Jan 30, 2004, 2:24 PM
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disco death march
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ambler
Jan 30, 2004, 2:43 PM
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In reply to: Fantasia at Vedauwoo was by far the coolest one I've ever had the pleasure of.
In reply to: Crack of Fear: Although I have never finished the third pitch, has to be the best OW ever.
And I'll nominate two more, easier than Fantasia or Fear but in different ways more exciting:
Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike.
Hollow Flake Crack on the Salathe Wall. Can anyone who's led it ever forget that pitch?
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murf
Jan 30, 2004, 3:41 PM
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What ever offwidth I'm belaying my partner on....
Surprised noone has said: crux pitch Keeler Needle - 5.10+ offwidth at altitude!
Murf
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crackjammer
Jan 30, 2004, 4:51 PM
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1. The Pipeline at Squamish - Sick 10C Offwidth/Squeeze Chimney.
2. Various 5.10 Offwidths at Skaha - There are a lot of them.
3. Blue Autumn at Vantage.
4. Mithral Dihedral on Mount Russell, High Sierra.
5. East Face of Lexington Tower at Washington Pass.
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rrrADAM
Jan 30, 2004, 4:57 PM
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"Favorite Offwidth ???"
To me that is an oxymoron, as I hate all offwidths, and I have had to endure plenty... Always feel like I got in a fight after one.
I think I like Mike's tech tip for climbing offwidths...
(Praraphrasing)
"1. Do 3,000 situps
2. Ascend 1 foot
3. Rest
4. Repeat as necessarey to get to the top"
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asandh
Jan 30, 2004, 5:22 PM
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:D
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flagstaff_climber
Jan 30, 2004, 5:58 PM
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The one I can bypass by face climbing :)
Rick
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couloir
Jan 30, 2004, 6:07 PM
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Diet Pepsi(Sam's Throne, AR)
Owl Roof(Yosemite)
Trial By Fire(Yosemite)
Cream(Yosemite)
Bad Ass Momma(Yosemite)
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crotch
Jan 30, 2004, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: Right Long's Crack, Woodson - very very very nice ..... how many of you have had the pleasure of flipping your body upside down from a leavitation hand stack so you could jam a foot above your head, then inch by inch shuffling your foot up the crack, while holding yourself in this up side down mode with more hand stacks, till you can finally grab your leg and climb up yourself and continue on up to the top.
I've seen this crack shut down some big names. Is it really 5.11 withouth the cheat stone?
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drkodos
Jan 30, 2004, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: disco death march
I've done this one. Great call...
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crackboy
Jan 30, 2004, 7:06 PM
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i liked Baby at the gunks, though most people lay it back
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bones
Jan 30, 2004, 7:11 PM
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Also at Woodson: the Ogre, has a few moves of fun leavitation on steep rock.
Big Grunt, some horizontal chicken winging to squeeze chimney. good fun.
Sickle Crack, good for learning some OW skills.
I can't wait to try Mother Superior and Right Long's though.
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alpinestylist
Jan 30, 2004, 7:41 PM
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The big baby for sure!
rigth torpedo tube is good, a lot of stuff in Vedaveu (spell?)
Crack of Fear is more of a squeeze chiimney
The Leavitator on Scorched Earth...5.11 OW protected with tubes, 13 pitches up El Cap
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petsfed
Jan 30, 2004, 8:06 PM
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Vedauwoo. Fat Crack Country. Somebody needs to try New Maps of Hell and tell me trying it is a bad idea. Its unrepeated, put up in 1988. Or Trip Master Monkey, but its only briefly offwidth. Loads of stuff out at Blair and the Citadel. And the Roof Ranch. The wide half of Nat's Roof, probably V5 ish, but I'm not sure its been done yet. 30 feet long, 11 inches wide, roof chimney. Are we crying yet? But it really is the beautiful woman that has captured my imagination (its not the climb that the dude is on). Now if only I could get to the hard part...
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rhei
Jan 31, 2004, 12:48 AM
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Ambler wrote
In reply to: Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike.
All depends on your size. Bigger folk find it an off-width (or layback), smaller bodies get inside and chimney. Either way, the runout is still serious.
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wallwombat
Feb 2, 2004, 12:37 AM
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It's called 'Sport Climb this you Nowra Bastards' at Nowra in New South Wales, Australia.
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pywiak
Feb 2, 2004, 1:38 AM
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Let's not overlook "Paisano Overhang" at Suicide Rock for that upside-down bat hanging and perfect handstacks.
"Throbbing Gristle" at Loveland in Joshua Tree is sure to leave you puking into space.
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cgranite
Feb 2, 2004, 1:58 AM
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Whats the opinion for the greatest OW in Yosemite.
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ottoman
Feb 2, 2004, 3:12 AM
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ya mean i have to have a favorite...yuch i stay away from them
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brutusofwyde
Feb 3, 2004, 10:19 PM
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9th pitch of Magic Mushroom.
Honorable mentions:
East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon
Slack Left, Yosemite
Ipecac, Joshua Tree
Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall
Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks
First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect
Brutus
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studs
Feb 5, 2004, 3:05 PM
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Jaws in Yosemite,Emotional Rescue in Jt.But have these people really done all these OWS.Got lots of quality O.W.s in Spain
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brutusofwyde
Feb 7, 2004, 5:22 PM
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In reply to: But have these people really done all these OWS.
Wouldn't be surprised. I wouldn't think of mentioning one I haven't done. (Which explains why most of my meager list consists of unknown climbs :) )
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camhead
Feb 7, 2004, 5:28 PM
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Fear of Flying (5.10) at Enchanted Rock, TX, is the good kind of offwidth: layback-able. The crack itself is up to six inches wide.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=10804
AS for distant goals... The Big Baby at Indian Creek is the right of passage for OW.
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sammatt
Feb 7, 2004, 5:36 PM
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Oooh...this one is obscure: Plow Position, 5.9, on Instant Karma Cliff, at Independence Pass, Colorado. The crag is at 12,300 feet (you walk there from the pass itself), and the crack is about 18" wide the whole way. I barely did it on toprope. I thought I might puke and die, not necessarily in that order.
It felt about 1000 times harder than any 5.11 offwidth I've ever been on, which only confirms the old saying, "Beware the 5.9 offwidth." As a lead this route is likely 5.15.
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adeptus
Feb 8, 2004, 6:50 PM
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I hate offwidth.
I only do them because I hate myself even more :twisted:
:roll:
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okinawatricam
Feb 10, 2004, 10:01 AM
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Fear of Flying E rock, excelent routes
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davidji
Feb 11, 2004, 12:30 AM
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In reply to: Pony Express. The OW part isn't too long or too hard, but it keeps the crowding down on the 2nd pitch. |
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noodlearms
Feb 11, 2004, 12:43 AM
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In reply to: how many of you have had the pleasure of flipping your body upside down from a leavitation hand stack so you could jam a foot above your head, then inch by inch shuffling your foot up the crack, while holding yourself in this up side down mode with more hand stacks, till you can finally grab your leg and climb up yourself and continue on up to the top.
That sounds fun! Maybe one day....
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noodlearms
Feb 11, 2004, 12:47 AM
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In reply to: I hate offwidth. I only do them because I hate myself even more
:D
That's my position with most overhanging climbs.
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markguycan
Feb 12, 2004, 6:04 AM
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ok, maybe I'm strange :wink: but I really enjoy getting a good struggle in after a day of less physical climbing. the favorite ow must be "generator crack" in yosemite, nice tr problem. my worst was the harding slot, I got totally :cry: claustrophobic. I have my eye on a particularly inviting ow in sedona, might try a fa soon!
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studs
Feb 17, 2004, 4:14 PM
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Gregs Problem At Woodson is great. Too big for stacks. So u gotta armbar. probably 11.d.
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studs
Mar 2, 2004, 9:58 AM
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Check out Blind Faith on the Rostrum.After the 11.c thin crux,its I think 3 pitchs of O.W. Nobody does this route.Its more resonable than it appears in the guide.
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okinawatricam
Mar 9, 2004, 11:50 PM
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Blind Faith, sound like a difficult approach (11c) but, hey I am game. No lines right
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pcfcclmbr
Mar 10, 2004, 1:10 AM
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The one I'll never even try!
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jer
Mar 10, 2004, 2:43 AM
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three way tie, with an honorable mention:
The Big Easy .11r/x (Cave Creek, Ar.): 60 degrees overhung, but thankfully in a dihedral for the occasional rest. Crux is 30 feet up with no pro. Bring a crashpad or 7...or even better; a "gold member"; one of those new fancy 18" big bros.
2nd Pitch of Abracadaver Pitch: .10d Route:11a (Cochise Stronghold, Az.):
Also in a dihedral, but much slicker(granite), preceded by 10+stemming/face; followed by 11a fingers...a full workout.
6th pitch of Mt. Conness' West Face Pitch: .9 Route:10c (Tuolomne, Ca.): Not TOO bad, but is protected by heinous 40 year old Harding home-made bolts (think plastic fork and ducktape), runout, and lies above 12,000 ' asl.
4th Pitch of Kazeemo .10c (Mt. Warren, Co.):
not the crux of the pitch, but again, at 12,000' + and 100' of hands and fingers after 30 feet of wide-ness to the belay. Beautiful views of alpine lakes. FA.
jer
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j_ung
Mar 10, 2004, 9:28 PM
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Speak not the word lest you summon it to us. Even the word "offwidth" drips with malice. Those letters combined are like an invitation for Satan to attend your wedding. (Insert mother-in-law joke here.)
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okinawatricam
Mar 11, 2004, 9:28 AM
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I guess that OW will never have a line. While they are a weakness for me, I do enjoy them. Keeps me humble.
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bradnicholson
Mar 11, 2004, 11:16 AM
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table rock, linville gorge, north carolina
5.8 Crackerjack. second pitch is a body wide off width, bring big bros and yates.
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vmcdirect
Jun 2, 2004, 4:57 PM
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What about The Vertigo "half moon crack" pitch at Cannon Cliff NH USA, a 5.9 R offwidth... all the offwidth crack is run out for 50ft from the belay and finish with a hard crux slipperry face move to the next belay ;-0)
Enjoy your climbs everybody
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grover
Jun 2, 2004, 5:06 PM
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Crack A Jack --- in the Ghost ..... Canadian rockies
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holmeslovesguinness
Jun 2, 2004, 5:19 PM
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Vedauwoo definitely has a lot of 'beginner' offwidths to practice on. Mother #1 and Lower/Upper Slots (5.7/8-ish) are great lines to tune into suffering. Middle Parallel Space and Fantasia (5.9's) are also very cool (I've only TR'd those and felt like puking afterwards).
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wes_allen
Jun 2, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Muscle Shoals, 5.8+ RRG
When Doves Cry, 5.12+ 40 foot OW Roof boulder problem, RRG
So many cool OW routes and problems in Vedauwoo, great place to train for crack climbing for sure.
Wes
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climboard
Jun 2, 2004, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: What ever offwidth I'm belaying my partner on.... Surprised noone has said: crux pitch Keeler Needle - 5.10+ offwidth at altitude! Murf
I still shudder thinking about it. The altitude and loose rock just add to the charm of that one.
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hexitup
Jun 2, 2004, 9:02 PM
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Yes! The Generator Crack in Yosemite.
Gorgeous
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slobmonster
Jun 3, 2004, 1:41 AM
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I'll throw my hat in for the Half Moon crack on Vertigo, Cannon Cliff, NH. Glad it got brought up already, too.
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jaybro
Mar 26, 2005, 11:50 PM
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Great thread, too bad I'm a year late.
They're ALL good. The question is, is there a bad offwidth?
Murf- for my money the best OW pitch at altitude, in the sierras, is the one on Conness, pure o-dub technique with classic dicey fixed pro; the one on Keeler is fun, but 10b (easier) and with handjams in the back, it's not an offwidth.
Studs- Blind faith is so cool, I don't know why more people don't do it. Especially with that, better that Butterballs, first pitch to lure them in.
INMHO Vedauwoo has the best progression of easy to hard ow's and is, thus, probably the best place to learn, hone, and enjoy the craft.
-"Offwidth climbers make the most technical moves of all.." - Ace Kvale
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golsen
Mar 27, 2005, 12:09 AM
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Only 1 vote for the Hollow Flake on Salathe?
And none mentioned the Priest? That is a very unique pitch travelling all the way through the spire.....
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petsfed
Mar 27, 2005, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: Vedauwoo definitely has a lot of 'beginner' offwidths to practice on. Mother #1 and Lower/Upper Slots (5.7/8-ish) are great lines to tune into suffering. Middle Parallel Space and Fantasia (5.9's) are also very cool (I've only TR'd those and felt like puking afterwards).
Funny, the only ow I wanted to puke after was the first time I got on Handjacker. If I'd liebacked and face climbed like everybody else does, it wouldn't have been so bad.
I changed my mind, incidentally, Lucille is no longer my favorite offwidth. The damn fingercrack to get to the offwidth spits me off way too much. I blame the roof on Best of the Blues for killing my hand strength before I get there.
The crux of Nexus is pretty fun, if brief and far too easy. Likewise, the 5.8 alternate finish for the Bastille Crack is not to be missed. Much more fun than the squeeze finish. Makes the entire climb more continuous. Should be longer and harder, but I can't ask for that much from Eldo. The second pitch of Stolen Chimney in the Fishers is filthy and almost too wide to be true offwidth, but its not hard and the moves are fun. Mainstreet at Vedauwoo is classic. Long, sustained, and just hard enough to keep away the maddening crowds. Fantasia is harder, but since it has a lower grade, everyone not in the know goes to it instead of Mainstreet.
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bubbahotep
Mar 27, 2005, 7:23 PM
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Road Warrior on Mount Evans - Solid 5.10+ at over 13,000 feet.
The Maelstrom on Poe Buttress, South Platte - Squeeze chimney to arm bar crux.
Pitch 3 of The Obelisk on the Diamond - Take your #4.5 camalots!
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azrockclimber
Mar 28, 2005, 1:35 PM
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In reply to: The one I just got off of!!!!
funny as shit...Well I haven't done too many but pitch 4 of the Braille Book in Yosemite was really cool. And very strenuous for an Arizona trained climber.
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piton
Mar 28, 2005, 1:55 PM
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mainstreet @ vedauwoo is real nice.
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tetons
Mar 28, 2005, 3:47 PM
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Lowe Rt., Grand Teton/Enclosure.
Wear boots, you'll need them for the ice pitches anyway. Don't dally, bring your biggest pro. Or, bring George....
Either way, you won't be waiting in line.
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angelaa
Mar 28, 2005, 3:49 PM
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[violet]FANTASIA!!! :D [/violet]
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evanwish
Mar 18, 2009, 1:16 AM
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bump.
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rockandlice
Mar 18, 2009, 1:30 AM
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The one that changes into a nice hand splitter 3 feet above the dirt beneath my belayers feet.
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petsfed
Mar 18, 2009, 1:41 AM
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I got on Jay's Solo out at the Short Wall last fall with edl. That thing is an absolute beast. If you do not have your technique absolutely dialed, you will get your ass handed to you by a 30 foot 5.10 offwidth. Since its so fuckin' sustained, it got respect from me.
Another one is Orbital Ridge at Poland Hill. 10b #6 friend leavittation until it joins up with Skull. Incredibly pretty. There's a sweet 5.11 offwidth roof boulder problem out at Coyote Rocks that's worth doing if you're there, but its only 2 or 3 moves and then its over. Not really my favorite by any means.
The Warden at the Dungeon though...
I've yet to finish it, but it is soooo good.
The first pitch of Hammer is really good, but at a pretty reasonable grade. I really enjoyed it.
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jeremy11
Mar 18, 2009, 2:10 AM
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Further Up and Further In 5.8
A probable first ascent of mine in Colorado, it starts with about 20 feet of kinda weird offwidth/face climbing up a corner, then a move around a chockstone onto a ledge (where I'm standing in the picture) then into the crack about 4 feet through a squeeze for about 20 feet to the top. At its tightest the squeeze is barely big enough to fit through. It goes much smoother with a webbing swami, no helmet, and the tie in knot on the side. The only pro worth bringing is one big cam. For the top anchor, just sit across the top of the crack, find a good stance and belay off your swami, or do a hip belay.
Also a nice solo.
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evanwish
Mar 18, 2009, 2:11 AM
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hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome.
sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far
My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap
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jeremy11
Mar 18, 2009, 2:39 AM
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evanwish wrote: jeremy11 wrote: It goes much smoother with a webbing swami, no helmet, and the tie in knot on the side. yeah i've heard all about using a swami, especially since my harness always gets caught, but never brought myself to using it.... 
My first time up, with the real harness, it was very tight fitting through, with the belay loop and gear loops and all, even with minimal gear.
You could get the Arcteryx WST sport harness for the same low profile, or use a $1 chunk of webbing you already have. The freedom, comfort, and weight is so nice I might use it on some long easy climbs. you can turn a 4 foot sling into leg loops with a couple overhands in the right places too, for rappeling.
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clemsonscooby
Mar 18, 2009, 2:14 PM
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Mikes Book-HVCG JTree
Fat Dog-SF Looking Glass
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wishiwasamonkey
Mar 18, 2009, 2:36 PM
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Pegasus-bruce peninsula-Ontario-canada
leading it as soon as its warm enough.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/Canada/Ontario/Central_Ontario/Cape_Croker/Left_of_the_ladder/Pegasus_53168.html
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salamanizer
Mar 18, 2009, 2:46 PM
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evanwish wrote: hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome. sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap
...And what .11a OW roof was that? Batmans Nightmare? Pffft! 
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evanwish
Mar 18, 2009, 6:47 PM
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salamanizer wrote: evanwish wrote: hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome. sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap ...And what .11a OW roof was that? Batmans Nightmare? Pffft!
batman can't fly.. yeah it'd be a simple 10- squeeze if you can fit in it on the river side of it but i was too big even on empty lungs so i had to traverse all the way accross that thing..
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patmay81
Mar 18, 2009, 7:43 PM
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I just did Moscow, only 5.6/7 (at smith, last weekend). It had some sweet ow sections, but I couldn't enjoy them too much since I didn't know the gear was that big up the entire route. I had several 40'+ run outs, which was VERY unnerving for me.
I also climbed a really awesome 35' splitter ow (maybe 5.10+/11-) at widgi creek in Bend. I don't know the name of it though, but it was probably the best ow I've done to date.
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petsfed
Mar 18, 2009, 9:42 PM
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robdotcalm wrote: When I was a boy we really climbed Orbital Ridge(at Poland Hill in Vedauwoo) right-side-up. None of this silly leavittation stuff.
Rob, I didn't mean that crazy inversion stuff that Bob and Brad and Craig get so much mileage from. I just meant the combo of knee locks and hand stacks.
I've tried to use traditional offwidth technique on Orbital Ridge. I'm certain you'd get quite a laugh watching me do that. But the leavittation techniques aren't just the wacky inversion circus trick stuff, and it even makes easy stuff like the middle offwidth on Edward's Crack or Easy Jam, even easier.
When the size is right, its definitely the better way to climb an offwidth. Mind you, it simply does not work on Fantasia, or the start of Lower Slot, or Main Street, or the final 8 feet of Lower Progressive, but when it works, it works really well. As I recall, I used a ton of good old-fashioned chicken wings, arm bars, heel-toes, and (when all else failed) thrutching on Hammer and Jay's Solo. I understand Big Pink requires the same, but I have the good sense to wait on that one a little while longer.
(for those not aware, these are all at Vedauwoo, which is perhaps the very best place in the country to learn and perfect offwidth techniques)
Speaking of...
Angry, did you ever go back and send Big Pink?
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budman
Mar 18, 2009, 10:22 PM
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Fort Knox on Gold Bar Tower. Didn't have a name when I did it. Just had a location and some beta from a friend. All she said was "You can do it". Busted a rib mid crux. Heard it snap and it hurt to breathe for 3 months. Tipped out #5 is never awe inspiring either. Cool desert OW. Toss up between favorite OW and most memorable tower.
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mojede
Mar 20, 2009, 5:04 AM
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Any of 'em that REQUIRE a kick-through, seem to be the most fun (read favorite) odubs lately. (taped-up, bloody emoticon)
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evanwish
Mar 20, 2009, 5:36 AM
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yeah i've been experimenting more with taping up.. my last one i taped up my tricep and ankles.. i think the tape alone brings down the grade at least a full number.. ha
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mountainhick
Mar 20, 2009, 2:13 PM
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Never got along with OW, but I guess the most memorable was the Diving board in Eldo.
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petsfed
Mar 20, 2009, 3:29 PM
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evanwish wrote: yeah i've been experimenting more with taping up.. my last one i taped up my tricep and ankles.. i think the tape alone brings down the grade at least a full number.. ha
Get high tops. I only ever tape my hands anymore, and then, only lightly. I have, however, taped clear up to my elbows on particularly unrelenting wide-hands corners.
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cracklover
Mar 23, 2009, 4:31 PM
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rhei wrote: Ambler wrote: Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike. All depends on your size. Bigger folk find it an off-width (or layback), smaller bodies get inside and chimney. Either way, the runout is still serious.
This thread needs more pics! I've done a few of these "favorite" OWs, but this one is probably my personal fave. Plus, it's the only one I have a photo of!
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Mar 23, 2009, 4:34 PM)
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billcoe_
Mar 30, 2009, 3:30 PM
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I hate all of them, but dislike this one the least. I had spyed this line, and bought a couple of wide pieces of pro to do it and had been dreading doing it. Had to wait for the snow to clear, so I had a long time to quake in fear and pee my pants repeatedly as I considered the possibility of dieing in the outback.
Spring came, snow melted. Walked up, did it ground up, and my 2 buddies, both stronger (and better looking too) than me had a more difficult time following it.
Named it "Bride of Wyde". Thanks for the mispelling tip Brutus!
I never had any wide pro before, so it was quite a nice surprise to be overprotecting something like this for once.
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cracklover
Mar 30, 2009, 3:41 PM
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Congrats!
GO
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ahab
Mar 30, 2009, 6:33 PM
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Wide Pride
5.10c
RRG, Ky
doesn't see a whole lot of action due to it's obscure location, but if you're into OW and in the red you should drag your crew out to lost ridge for a healthy dose.
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billcoe_
Mar 31, 2009, 3:48 PM
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Ahab, wide pride looks like you could stem off the tree and chimney for rests:-)
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evanwish
Apr 2, 2009, 3:13 PM
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ahab wrote: doesn't see a whole lot of action due to it's obscure location....
anybody here climbed Pratt's Crack near Bishop?
I'm hoping to climb it in a few weeks...
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brutusofwyde
Apr 2, 2009, 5:10 PM
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Pratt's... classic. Bring #6 and larger cams, up to #4 Big Bros.
Good line.
Do it to the top for full credit.
Brutus
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evanwish
Apr 9, 2009, 4:28 AM
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ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good?
any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11
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petsfed
Apr 9, 2009, 2:11 PM
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evanwish wrote: ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good? any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11
Get more of the regular cams. BD #5 and 6, or Friends #5 and 6. If you can find it, get an old style (so, non C4) #4 camalot.
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dlintz
Apr 9, 2009, 2:46 PM
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petsfed wrote: I got on Jay's Solo out at the Short Wall last fall with edl. That thing is an absolute beast. If you do not have your technique absolutely dialed, you will get your ass handed to you by a 30 foot 5.10 offwidth. Since its so fuckin' sustained, it got respect from me. Another one is Orbital Ridge at Poland Hill. 10b #6 friend leavittation until it joins up with Skull. Incredibly pretty. There's a sweet 5.11 offwidth roof boulder problem out at Coyote Rocks that's worth doing if you're there, but its only 2 or 3 moves and then its over. Not really my favorite by any means. The Warden at the Dungeon though... I've yet to finish it, but it is soooo good. The first pitch of Hammer is really good, but at a pretty reasonable grade. I really enjoyed it.
Can you be more specific where that boulder problem is at Coyote Rocks? I'd like to give it a go next time I'm out that way.
d.
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petsfed
Apr 9, 2009, 2:53 PM
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Its immediately right (like the crack is formed by another boulder leaning against it) of Heart of Stone. Davin's book says 5.12. I don't think its that hard.
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evanwish
Apr 11, 2009, 6:16 AM
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petsfed wrote: evanwish wrote: ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good? any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11 Get more of the regular cams. BD #5 and 6, or Friends #5 and 6. If you can find it, get an old style (so, non C4) #4 camalot.
thanks man!
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angry
Apr 11, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Since I last posted to this thread 5 years ago, I suppose an update is in order.
-Amplitude 12a/b, location undisclosed, a changing corners roof requiring a right foot inversion and a couple feet later a left foot inversion. Cool stuff.
-The Creek 3. The progression goes Big Guy, Big Baby, Have a Cow. After that, you know all you'll ever need to know about vertical OW splitters. All three are excellent.
-Crumbling Reality because it's mine, it's awesome, and I'm a little bit proud of it.
-Bellyful of Bad Berries, 13a, Indian Creek. I've come withing one fall of sending it a few times. Climbing long stretches on this thing without falling is just about the most rewarding climbing I've done. I don't know if I'll be psyched or let down when I send it. Probably both.
-Road Warrior on Mt. Evans. As beautiful as it is pissed.
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angry
Apr 11, 2009, 10:21 AM
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I just realized I didn't mention a single route in Vedauwoo.
Think of it in parable.
A young man had failing grades but a desire to learn. He hired the best tutor money could buy, a genius in her own right, to teach him. He studied for years and years but he learned. Finally he went on to do great things. Even though he got the credit, deep down, he knew that this was all the direct result of his tutor. He also had lots and lots of scars.
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punk_rocker333
Apr 13, 2009, 6:46 PM
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[quote "brutusofwyde"]9th pitch of Magic Mushroom.
Honorable mentions:
East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon
Slack Left, Yosemite
Ipecac, Joshua Tree
Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall
Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks
First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect
Brutus[/quote]
What kind of pro was there for Vertical Turtle? That thing looks really awesome and I've never heard of anyone climbing it.
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evanwish
Apr 18, 2009, 1:14 AM
Post #124 of 125
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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we just went to go climb mt. Williamson and Pratt's crack on the way back... unfortutately though by dad fractured his ankle on the aproach to the mountain so we never got a chance to get on Pratt's Crack 
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brutusofwyde
Apr 20, 2009, 8:24 PM
Post #125 of 125
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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punk_rocker333 wrote: brutusofwyde wrote: 9th pitch of Magic Mushroom. Honorable mentions: East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon Slack Left, Yosemite Ipecac, Joshua Tree Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect Brutus What kind of pro was there for Vertical Turtle? That thing looks really awesome and I've never heard of anyone climbing it.
Big stuff... Big bros and big cams. I think the #4 Bros were too big, though, because higher I used one on a bolt when I ran out of draws...
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