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petsfed
Feb 5, 2004, 6:13 PM
Post #26 of 54
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Depends on what I'm carrying. Short stuff, or not much for pro, it goes on the harness. Long stuff, pro intensive routes (doubles or triples of most everything for example) and I'll bust out the gear sling. Like wise with offwidths and chimneys, but then I don't usually carry much for those anyway.
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c_kryll
Feb 5, 2004, 6:15 PM
Post #27 of 54
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If I'm guiding or leading all the pitches the gear and slings go on my harness. If I'm flipping leads with a partner most of the gear goes on a sling for easier transitions with the slings still on the harness.
Chris
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vegastradguy
Feb 5, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #28 of 54
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i have started racking on my harness, i have 7 loops plus a haul loop, which is more than enough for a set of cams, stoppers, 6 draws, cordlette, rescue kit, belay device, spare biners, etc. and, since i have so many loops, i can distribute the weight nicely.
i still use my chest harness (Yates) on grade iv and up, mostly because i can carry some more crap that i might not normally carry on a grade iii or less.
i hate that damn metolius sling, it just bugs me. those seconds that dont have a sling usually get to carry it...i used it once (my first trad lead), and i bought the yates chest harness the next day. (of course, you have to love the leopard print version they have for sale at Galyans....)
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desertgranite
Feb 5, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #29 of 54
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In reply to: I carry cams on the gear sling. Mine is relatively short so it keeps 'em in tight. Then on the front gear loops go nuts and slings. Personally, I hate reaching around to the back gear loops when I'm on lead, so the cordelette, nut tool, tricams (which I mostly use for belays, where they're great for saving cams), and anything else (approach shoes, water bottle) go on the back loops. Works for me, anyway.
Works for me too.
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markc
Feb 5, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #30 of 54
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As others have said, racking is largely based on personal preference and the type of climb (chimney, layback, slab, etc.). The following is just what I find comfortable most of the time.
I rack all of my slings on a padded gear sling, and rack pro on my harness. With six gear loops, I have enough room to keep things organized. Nuts and smaller cams go on front. Hexes and large cams go towards the rear where they're less likely to get in the way. The last two loops are used for belay device, emergency biner and the like.
While the gear sling is still free to swing around a bit, it doesn't have the heft of the rack. It's easy to move it out of the way, and doesn't throw off my balance or block my view. Unless you put all of your slings and pro on a gear sling, you're going to do some trading over when you swing leads. Doesn't really matter to me if it's gear or draws as long as nothing's lost.
Some of my partners prefer to rack in different ways, so I try to remain flexible. A lot of times it's better to lead in blocks when you have really dissimilar racking methods. Everyone gets their preference, but you're not wasting time at every belay organizing and reorganizing.
mark
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coylec
Feb 5, 2004, 10:40 PM
Post #31 of 54
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What kind of harness you got?
coylec
btw, I win : i predicted it'd be moved here!
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telluryan
Feb 5, 2004, 10:45 PM
Post #32 of 54
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Gear slings. Nothing like getting in a chimney and not being able to get through b/c of gear. nice to be able to clip to daisy and trail behind. Also nice for when climbs switch corners and you can adjust accordingly
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davidji
Feb 5, 2004, 11:02 PM
Post #33 of 54
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In reply to: Like most here, on the harness.
Anyway most people I see climbing use a gear sling. Most people I see in the mags (when I look) use their harness. Often very little gear. Either much is preplaced, or they're so good, they don't need much, or the photo may have been largely staged.
I use a sling.
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smithclimber
Feb 6, 2004, 3:08 AM
Post #34 of 54
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In reply to: A lot of times it's better to lead in blocks when you have really dissimilar racking methods. Everyone gets their preference, but you're not wasting time at every belay organizing and reorganizing. mark
It's virtually always a better idea to lead in blocks, period.
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sfclimber
Feb 7, 2004, 12:19 AM
Post #35 of 54
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Lead gear on multi loop gear sling
- easy to hand off when swinging leads
- easy access
- clean organization
Personal gear such as belay device, prussiks, tibloc, water on my harness.
If I'm approaching a particularly tough section I'll move the most likely pieces to the easiest access sling loop before continuing.
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markc
Feb 9, 2004, 9:36 PM
Post #36 of 54
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[quote="coylec"]What kind of harness you got? /quote]
It's made by Misty Mountain, but I can't recall the name or find it on their website. It's not the super-cush Cadillac, and it sure isn't the Titan. I've had it for a while, so it's probably undergone a redesign and renaming. Their site is http://www.mistymountain.com, if you're interested.
mark
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diplodocus
Feb 11, 2004, 3:47 PM
Post #37 of 54
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In reply to: I rack it all on my harness too. This works because I devised/use a unique way of racking gear. My method ends up saving a lot of space on your gear loops (whether you use all 4 or only the front 2, as I do) As you can tell.... this got old real quick. I don't have any of these problems with it racked on my harness.
Hi Smithclimber,
could you share your method of racking that ends up saving space? Tks
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eduardo
Feb 11, 2004, 4:44 PM
Post #38 of 54
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I rack on a sling for long multipitch routes largely because it is faster to switch at belays and allows more flexability when climbing. On shorter and more difficult trad climbs I try to keep the amount of gear to a minimum and rack on the harness.
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offwidth
Feb 18, 2004, 1:56 AM
Post #39 of 54
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I use a gear sling.
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one900johnnyk
Feb 18, 2004, 2:12 AM
Post #40 of 54
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In reply to: I rack it all on my harness too. Not only that, but I manage to pretty much fit all of the gear AND my tripled over runners on just the two front gear loops. Normally, the only things I put on the rear gear loops are my nut tool, ATC, cordolette, and a few lockers. If I need huge cams or multiple large cams (3"+) then I'll put some on the rear gear loops.... other than that it ALL goes on the front two gear loops. This works because I devised/use a unique way of racking gear. My method ends up saving a lot of space on your gear loops (whether you use all 4 or only the front 2, as I do) in addition to being lighter weight (due to needing fewer carabiners) and requiring fewer number of hand movements (faster) when placing gear. I also rack the gear the same way each time. This also makes it faster since I know where a specific piece is.... no digging around to find that green Alien or whatever. I grew tired of carry gear on a sling a long time ago.... climb a slab...all the gear slides around to the front obscuring your view of your feet. Climb a steep route..... all the gear slides behind you where you can't see it. Climb a vertical route and your knee has to "part" the gear each time you want to step up. As you can tell.... this got old real quick. I don't have any of these problems with it racked on my harness.
he showed me the light and i agree completely. did a 5.7 slabby route, couldn't see one foothold with that f'in sling on..
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bustinmins
Feb 24, 2004, 3:34 PM
Post #41 of 54
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In reply to: I rack on my harness unless doing a squeeze chimney.
Ditto!
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deleted
Deleted
Feb 24, 2004, 5:25 PM
Post #42 of 54
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my harness is festooned with prussiks, tibloc, free biners, nut tool, rap device, cordellette, etcetera. so ... hardware goes on one sling; runners go on another.
besides, i can't climb with gear on my harness. i don't like the feeling of my pants being pulled down. i have enough to worry about without adding to it the thought i might be up there with 6" of ass-crack hanging out.
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a_scender
Feb 27, 2004, 6:07 AM
Post #43 of 54
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I just recently tried racking my draws on a shoulder sling, and keeping the gear on the harness. It keeps less cluster on your harness loops, and the shoulder sling is light and easy to flip out of the way. I don't think racking on a shoulder sling really saves that much time because you still have to exchange biners.
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jonnyb
Feb 27, 2004, 7:24 AM
Post #44 of 54
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In reply to: In reply to: Like most here, on the harness. Most who've posted to this thread, certainly. I'd be curious to see a poll though. Those get more responses, and may draw from a broader group. Anyway most people I see climbing use a gear sling. Most people I see in the mags (when I look) use their harness. Often very little gear. Either much is preplaced, or they're so good, they don't need much, or the photo may have been largely staged. I use a sling.
I agree. I always thought a sling was pretty much the standard. Everyone I climb with uses one as well.
I once heard something weird about how climbing magazines actually prefer people in photos not to wear gear slings. Something about product placement, maybe. I don't really remember who told me that or if it has any validity. But yea, most photos are of people on insanely hard stuff anyway with really specific gear requirements, where a gear sling would be more of a hinderance.
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jgrierson
Feb 27, 2004, 8:21 AM
Post #45 of 54
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Always put my gear on my harness, that way everything is organised and in its place so I know exactly where to find each piece.
I find slings a little awkward in that all the gear slides together and I can't always find what I want, personal preference though.
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harihari
Feb 27, 2004, 8:15 PM
Post #46 of 54
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Registered: Jan 7, 2004
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I use a metolius multi-loop slng. Easy to transfer, organised, and keeps weight off my hips (I'm skinny). Draws and slings, water, shoes and jacket go on harness. With partners who use a different system, it's best to block lead.
Gear slings are better the taller you are (I'm 6'3")-- the gear stays off your legs more. Disadvantage-- on friction routes, it's harder to see your feet.
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sparky
Feb 28, 2004, 6:35 AM
Post #47 of 54
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sling.
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norushnomore
Mar 2, 2004, 12:10 AM
Post #48 of 54
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[quote="sspssp"]The gear goes on a double gear sling.
Pros: a doubled gear sling doesn't flop around. Lots of space to spread things out and stay organized. A double gear slings rides on your shoulders (instead of cutting into the neck like a single). My double gear sling triples as a chest harness and hydration pack.
Cons: Can't flip the gear to one side for liebacks/corners/offwidths (but can still rerack it to one side). Can't pass the sling to your partner (but can't drop it either). Hard to adjust clothing layers under the gear sling for climbing (my belay jacket I can wear over the gear sling).
What brand/maker do you use for your double gear sling?
I started using similar setup this summer and liked it a lot.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/bigwallgearsl.htm
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rocket
Mar 19, 2004, 4:13 PM
Post #49 of 54
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Registered: Apr 23, 2003
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I think it is just a matter of feel and preference. I broke my right arm in four places when I was younger so I tend to "baby" that arm. Therefore, I'll lock off with my left and set gear with my right. It just puts less strain on me. So, I use the gear sling over my shoulder and put smaller gear up front and larger in the back.
I have seen folks with dual shoulder slings, but they're doing something rather tall and they need to carry more than I do.
I have also seen folks put all their gear on their harness. They seem to distribute the weight well and it does make some sense, but then you do run into the instance what the gear is you way and you can't move it around/aside like you can with the gear sling.
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abalch
Mar 19, 2004, 5:25 PM
Post #50 of 54
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Registered: Jul 11, 2003
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Nut tool, approach shoes, and anchor cordolette on my harness. Almost everything else on my sling, or slung over my shoulder for the runners. Sometimes I will put things temporarily on my harness during a climb, like if I am looking at my next placement, and it looks like it is going to be a right hand on rock, left hand placing gearwith no need to switch myt sling for an extended piece of the route, I will take the likely piece and clip it to the left side of my harness, since I usually sling my gear under my right arm.
Last weekend I forgot my sling going out to the crag, and had to carry all my gear on my harness. Worst day of climbing I have ever had. My whole center of gravity was thrown off, and since the routes I was on that day had some chimneying on them, I kept coming up with the wrong gear on the wrong side, and had a difficult time getting to the gear because I couldn't just switch the whole rack to the outside.
The sling definitely makes it easier to change out on a multipitch route.
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