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andy_lemon
Feb 10, 2004, 3:53 PM
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In reply to: Dam, 200 + routes!? Me and my partner must not have walked the river enough. I didn't realize the scope was so large. We were there about 2 years ago. The river was cool, but the gobs of home made hangers left something to be desired.
Alot has been done in the 2 years since you've been here. The SCC owns the land now and there have been several bolts replaced and added to routes. Not to say that some home made hangers don't still exsist but alot have been removed.
Shank: I'm probably going to be busy this Saturday, I don't want to get into the kind of trouble your asking to with your wife. :wink: I'm all tied up until spring break because of work and stupid stuff on the weekends.
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shank
Feb 10, 2004, 3:59 PM
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Andy, I'm not married. 8)
Alpine, In the newest edition of the guide there were I think 170 route.
And I agree I thinkk something more needs to be done about those old hanger, and some of the anchors need fixin up. So if you go drop in a donation at the box. :lol:
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andy_lemon
Feb 10, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: Andy, I'm not married. 8)
Ha Ha, that's not what your brother-in-law says. :lol:
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shank
Feb 10, 2004, 8:27 PM
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Yeah, but if you climb with us enough you would know he is full of crap more times than not. :lol:
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andy_lemon
Feb 10, 2004, 8:32 PM
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:lol:
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climbhigh2005
Feb 10, 2004, 9:37 PM
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awesome... I cant wait to plan a trip up there!
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okinawatricam
Feb 10, 2004, 11:01 PM
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In reply to: Alot has been done in the 2 years since you've been here. The SCC owns the land now and there have been several bolts replaced and added to routes. Not to say that some home made hangers don't still exsist but alot have been removed.
Those homemade hangers are pretty good, but I am glad to hear they are being replaced. Kings Bluff is a hard area to maintain, so when you see a problem, fix it.
Let's keep in mind that the Scc doesn't own the whole thing, they own about half. Keeping the area in prestine shape and the level of noise down, (Especially the Quiet Zone and Navigator Wall) will insure that those owners will allow future climbers the oportunity to enjoy Clarksville climbing Jewel.
Shank: I am not sure what you heard about me, but I am sure it was ALL LIES
You guys keep Crimping the little Crimpers.
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shank
Feb 11, 2004, 3:20 PM
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Still looking good for Saturday. :D
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okinawatricam
Feb 12, 2004, 4:09 AM
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Looks like I will be there at the end of July for a few days. Shank, maybe we'll get to climb.
I look foward to the Beach
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shank
Feb 12, 2004, 2:41 PM
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I am looking forward to the Beach also, unfortunatly it may be a few years before I am good enough to climb any of those route. :lol:
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okinawatricam
Feb 16, 2004, 6:20 AM
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Give yopurself more credit. It's true the the routes on the beach are hard, but they are attainable with the right mental attitude
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shank
Feb 16, 2004, 2:33 PM
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I know. That and I need to work on endurence. those routes are longer than most I climb.
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climbhigh2005
Feb 16, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Man this sucks guys! I have 10 inches of snow and cant get down my driveway.... I REALLY wanna go climbing!! I hope you guys had (have) fun!
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okinawatricam
Feb 16, 2004, 10:56 PM
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A good way for you to work on endurance at the bluff is to run laps on some of the routes.
If you go to High Water wall, any of those routes are good for that purpose.
What is the hardest route you have done confortablely at the bluff? I can go from there with some advice.
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shank
Feb 16, 2004, 11:02 PM
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I redpointed LAG 5.9 on my second time on it which was a few months after my first time, when I didn't even make the first bolt. I don't know about comfortable though.My hardest redpoint was short and sporty 10c.
I am fairly comfortable on most of the eights there. Comfortable meaning no pain and little pump.
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chops
Feb 16, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Shank,
You just had to mention that route! I wonder who put that one up??? Maybe that guy from Japan can provide us with an answer. Word around the campfire is someone spent six whole months "cleaning" it before solid (by the bluff standards) rock could be found. Just giving you a hard time Eman, .....hope all is well.
Looking foward to climbing with you soon steve, shooting for a mid-march return.
Melissa,
So the plateau got that much snow, that's wild. Got some great memories of that place while at tech.....
Steve.
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shank
Feb 16, 2004, 11:50 PM
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Oh yeah. That is his route isn't it. :lol:
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climbhigh2005
Feb 16, 2004, 11:57 PM
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In reply to: Melissa, So the plateau got that much snow, that's wild. Got some great memories of that place while at tech..... Steve.
yeah its crazy.. I cant stand it... I'm gonna try to make it up to the obed tomarrow... please please please let me go climbing!! btw, have we ever talked before? I dont' really remeber, but I dunno..
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okinawatricam
Feb 17, 2004, 2:47 AM
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Six month is alittle bit of a strech. It actually took me six monbths to get motivated enough to clean it. I spent about three days (couple of hours at a time) cleaning it, I think it was worth the effort. When I left there, it was one of the local favorites. Sounds like someone was researching me, I feel priviledged.
If you redpointed LAG (AKA, let's see who knows this), you should work on Hardache on High Water wall. The moves are more power, but once you do the route it is straight foward. Once you have done it a couple of times, you can use it for endurence.
Another good 9 for laps is Break from the HEat in the Quiet Zone, just keep the noise down so the Judge stays Happy.
By the way, the Judge sent me a letter asking me if people still climbed on his property, so I guess climbers are doing a good job at keeping the noise down. Keep it up.
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chops
Feb 17, 2004, 2:31 PM
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In reply to: Sounds like someone was researching me, I feel priviledged.
Now that's an Eman statement!
I think people are still pulling off holds on L.A.G., and tripping over all the rock you popped off while "cleaning" it.
Don't know if I would want to run laps on heartache,..its a great route but better to stick to routes a grade lower than what you're redpointing (or around onsight grade) when working on endurance.
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shank
Feb 17, 2004, 3:04 PM
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L.A.G (AKA Layback And Go)?
I could run laps on LAG. I'll take a look at the other route and do them too.
I'll just do em all one of these days.
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shank
Feb 17, 2004, 11:06 PM
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I am Steve, but no engineer. Chops is also Steve.
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dwise
Feb 18, 2004, 12:54 AM
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Heartache is a stellar route, but what's up with that anchor?? The little looptiloop of chain?
I vote for running laps on all the Bluff routes, they're short enough. Also, work on down climbing them to work endurance.
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okinawatricam
Feb 18, 2004, 12:56 AM
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Good call Dave, down climbing is a great way to get a work out at the bluff or any other crag for that matter. It can also be useful on other routes in other areas.
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