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brycehj
Feb 25, 2004, 3:41 AM
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Do you like slabby routes?
Overhangs?
Technical?
I work in a gym and would like some input on fun routes.
Thanks.
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climber49er
Feb 25, 2004, 4:21 AM
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I like technical, overhanging slabs.
Really, I'm not sure anyone could describe a "fun" gym route very well.
Wouldn't it go something like, "Yeah, there's this great route at the gym, bro! It has this super rad, 8 1/2" long by 3 1/4" by 2" tall half round blue sloper that has half the texure worn off so it's EXTRA hard to hang on to and it's like, 3 1/2 feet off the ground and you kind of hang wierd under it and go to a... never mind..." :?
Everybody's got their own style and idea of fun. Just set a bunch of stuff and if they are fun people will climb them.
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dynoguy
Feb 25, 2004, 4:40 AM
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Trust me, if you set it they will climb it.
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dietzpa
Feb 25, 2004, 5:10 AM
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the MOST FUN TYPE of route, in my opinion, is anything that makes you feel like you deserve a sponsership of some sort.
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duckwalk
Feb 25, 2004, 5:23 AM
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The one thats actually OUTside ( c'mon , I had too). But seriously, I like the not so overhang technical ones, because they simulate the outdoor climbing I do the most.
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reprieve
Feb 25, 2004, 5:29 AM
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"funnest". awesome
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berkov
Feb 25, 2004, 7:05 AM
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sparse stretched out that make you have to really think and get creative
and for fun multipitch lead from the bottom belay the second, third, fourth the more the merrier from the top traverse down climb pendulum and whatever other shenanigans you can think of
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simianboy
Feb 25, 2004, 7:13 AM
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I like roof problems in the gym because I haven't found one outside that I can climb yet.
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wildduck
Feb 25, 2004, 10:28 AM
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Overhangs are great...
Roof probs... not bad too...
but my gym sets new super dino routes... that seems to impossible to climb. the setter thinks i can fly or something. The only way i could reach it was to jump... but it was fun though. Boulder is the best !
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jtcronk
Feb 25, 2004, 11:42 AM
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Hmmm....I'd have to say the ones that are outside, multi-pitch, and covered in ice....Oops, that wouldn't be indoor. :twisted:
Seriously, I think I good mix is the best you can do. Overhanging routes are great for making you strong, but are discouraging for newbies. Other than that, I'd love to see more gyms that allow dry tooling, even if it's restricted to woody holds. But that probalby won't happen......
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b_fost
Feb 25, 2004, 12:22 PM
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In reply to: Overhangs are great... Roof probs... not bad too... but my gym sets new super dino routes... that seems to impossible to climb. the setter thinks i can fly or something. The only way i could reach it was to jump... but it was fun though. Boulder is the best !
jumping is the point of dYno routes.
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dontfall
Feb 25, 2004, 2:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Overhangs are great... Roof probs... not bad too... but my gym sets new super dino routes... that seems to impossible to climb. the setter thinks i can fly or something. The only way i could reach it was to jump... but it was fun though. Boulder is the best ! jumping is the point of dYno routes.
"do you understand me...dur, yet dur."-Major Payne
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meatball
Feb 25, 2004, 2:58 PM
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My gym takes a unique approach to route setting:
On overhung low walls with a high hold density they set long "numbered" boulder problems. For example, from the starting hold you move right hand to #1, then left hand to #2, then right hand to #3, and so on. All feet are on.
I like these for a number of reasons:
1) They feel less restricting than traditional indoor routes/problems which dictate where your feet must go. I think this helps me learn to "read" rock by forcing me to make my own decisions about foot placement (IMHO--a very important aspect of outdoor climbing that is typically hard to hone in the gym).
2)Great for running laps/endurance because most of the routes end where they begin.
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the_antoon
Feb 25, 2004, 3:00 PM
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a nice crimpy one, a big juggy one that goes to the roof, a short roof route, and LOTS OF DYNOS!!!! :D
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ryanhurl
Feb 25, 2004, 3:01 PM
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Overhangs are awesome, roofs in gyms are usually pretty fun too. And like someone else said, typically the only place I can do a roof.
However, variety is the spice of life, or so they say. I'd have to go with Tabasco tho.
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thinksinpictures
Feb 25, 2004, 3:03 PM
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Two types:
1.) routes that "feel" like real rock - holds that simulate actual rock texture and movement that seems like one might find it outdoors. This means that there's probably a cross-over or two (in my experience nature isn't very likely to offer up a series of evenly spaced, left hand-right hand-left hand moves), the angle/steepness of the climb varies, and that the hold types are varied and don't feel like polished plastic.
2.) The complete opposite - routes that have interesting/odd moves that are very rare outside. Best example: Figure 4.
Essentially these types of routes cover the few good reasons that I hit up a gym: either it's too cold/rainy and I have no choice (in which case I want a route of the first variety) or I want to try a type of route/move that isn't available at any of the climbing areas near me.
Now if only they could replicate cracks indoors so I don't suck on them when I move back out west...
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petro
Feb 25, 2004, 3:04 PM
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I like the "natural" lines the best. The cracks and seams that are moulded into the "rock". The ones you can send without using a screwed on "hold".
Other than that, bouldering routes that use one or two giant slopey holds exclusively, with crappy feet that you have to mantle and otherwise manhandle to get up. Really, anything that utilizes overhanging, slopey, balancy, static moves. Any route that makes you have to think about your body position to stick to what seems impossible.
-Tom
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pixelguru
Feb 25, 2004, 3:10 PM
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Any route that attracts a crowd, each cheering and climbing in turn - throwing everything they can at it to send the route. That's a good gym route.
Any route that has at least two or three ways to send it, with each way favoring a different build of climber, but each equally difficult. That's a good gym route.
Any route that forces you to be a better climber - requiring gymnastic stretches, hand-foot, hand-hand-foot matches and the balance of a cat to send. Those are fun gym routes.
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nicebooty
Feb 25, 2004, 4:20 PM
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I like the indoor sport routes with the dynos and roofs that lead to the top of the rappel tower, with the slackline from one rap tower, to the haning belay 45 feet up. Its the funnest ever !
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crackscars
Feb 25, 2004, 4:22 PM
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I like a combination of slopers and crimpers...to work on both, personally. I have a weakness for slopers. It's not often that I see the combo, usually it's a crimper route or a sloper route..so mix em up. (especially for bouldering...) Of course, if you could similate some more cracks in the gym, that would be much appreciated..
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j_ung
Feb 25, 2004, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: Trust me, if you set it they will climb it.
Ain't that the truth.
Here are a couple of ideas:
1. Set routes that follow natural lines in the wall's features, for example, aretes and corners.
2. Augment your gym's features-only lines with a few bolt-on holds to make them more accessible to less-skilled climbers.
3. Set routes that have a theme, for example, several of a specific type of move or hold, but with varying hold sizes and shapes; all pockets, all slopers, etc.
4. Set gimick routes, for example, routes with pendulums, routes that spiral all the way around a pillar, routes with down climbing or maybe one with a long sideways dyno (beware of spinners). Be creative!
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trillium
Feb 25, 2004, 4:39 PM
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My favorite type of gym route is balancey, technical, with very small holds, a bit of a reach, and the constant threat of barn-dooring; the type of route where if you laugh, glance elsewhere, or breath too hard, you knock yourself off.
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redpoint73
Feb 25, 2004, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: "funnest". awesome
Yeah! The proper grammar is obviously "most funner"!
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powen
Feb 25, 2004, 5:09 PM
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Okay, my personal faves from gym climbs... I love mantle problems that rise up dihedrals, and it has to have really fat slopers with really hard finishes. I really love it when I have to go from concentrating on really burly moves to really dicey balanced ones.
My second favorite has to be fat, stemming, rip your chalk sack in half, chimneys. I've only done a couple, since my regular gym has no chimney, but the one or two I have done are just awesome. Again, burly moves mixed with dicey balanced ones.
Of course, this is all just in preparation for my favorite types of routes... outdoors:)
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debsanders
Feb 25, 2004, 6:16 PM
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I love it when our gym puts up "numbers" underneath what we refer to as the prow (large triangular shaped overhang). There are three seperate sets from easy to hard (large holds to micro) they usually go from 1 - 30. You start at the bottom of prow somewhere in the middle and move to the right then up to the apex of the triangle then back down to the left and right to where you started.
This is a great way to mark your progress. Start out one year only doing up to hold 10 then before you know it several years later you can do both the easy and mediums while working on the hard stuff.
Our gym puts up numbers several times a year and leaves them for approximately 6 weeks. I love it! They were up last night, we had soooo much fun.
It's something climbers can do together or alone and is always a great way to get to know climbers you don't normally climb with.
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climb_plastic
Feb 25, 2004, 6:29 PM
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The ones where if you mess up the sequence it makes it very hard to do. They make you think first rather than just muscle your way up.
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climb_plastic
Feb 25, 2004, 6:54 PM
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The ones where if you mess up the sequence it makes it very hard to do. They make you think first rather than just muscle your way up.
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jhump
Feb 25, 2004, 7:19 PM
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The mostest funnerest route in the gym has a cool name and an ego padding grade. Or did you want to know what the morest funnestest route is? In that case it is the one where chicks can eye your thang bestest.
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grabngrip
Feb 25, 2004, 7:49 PM
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i love juggy overhangs and roofs
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overlord
Feb 25, 2004, 9:51 PM
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overhanging technical slopery stuff.
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hardmanknott
Feb 26, 2004, 9:23 PM
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The only indoor route worth thinking about is the one to her bedroom
Hardman Knott
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pany
Feb 26, 2004, 9:53 PM
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well i really think that gym's just as fun as outdoors ! i love them both
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andy_reagan
Feb 26, 2004, 9:54 PM
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interesting ones. It doesnt matter what. Just interest me and I will have fun. That means crux dyno moves near the top of the climb, changing from one type of a hold to another, routes that encourage technique, etc.
I like the good bouldering problems better than the good routes though :lol:
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superfox
Feb 26, 2004, 10:12 PM
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The biggest mistake gyms can make is making a crimp / jug / sloper ladder, using only one type of hold. It is simple to make a hard route using the smallest holds posible, but hard to make a hard route that uses relatively good holds. Put feet out in awkward positions, use small jibs, etc. The most important thing, however, is to make the routes technical. Especially cool moves are heelhooks, hand-foot matching, changing hand positions on one hold (such as crimp from the bottom, match with a sidepull, and stand up to readjust to an undercling). If at all possible, try to fit in a figure-four at the lip of a roof, that is (in my opinion) the coolest move in climbing.
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litleclimberchick
Feb 26, 2004, 10:34 PM
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i love crimpy problems where technoique is required in order to finish them. :D
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wandt
Feb 26, 2004, 10:57 PM
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Jugs 8" apart. And all with the juggy part up (no side-pulls or underclings). Everyone loves those routes. I've found that whenever I set something using crimp, slopers, two-finger-pockets, etc. or anything that you might need to think, get your feet up and stretch for people whine at me. So... make every hold really big and easy to hold onto and make them all REALLY close together.
That said, I personally like giant static moves to stuff that you'll fall off of if you try to deadpoint.
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wildduck
Mar 3, 2004, 3:26 PM
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hehehe~
i guess some technical would be nice too...
something that'll make you start thinking... "how now ?"
like... tangling youself up ? legs here... hands cross here... u know ?
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elcommunisto
Mar 8, 2004, 12:02 PM
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My gym just put up a great route. It's been quite popular, since the first move is a LOOONG dyno move. I'm a pretty tall guy with orangutan arms, and it's a stretch even for me. After you get to the second hold, it's sort of like climbing a really wide, shallow chimney, and then another big dyno at the top. I was there the other day, and I only saw one person make it up the first time. I earned myself a nasty blister on one finger for my trying it four times. Not to mention some nice strap shaped bruises in my leg from falling a few feet before the auto-belayer kicked in. :)
Aside from that route, I love routes with an overhang or two in them. I'm still having problems with 5.9s, so I'm not real sure about crimp holds.
EC
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straightedgeteen
Mar 25, 2004, 12:14 AM
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most definitly the ones that make you think !
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j_dub
Apr 6, 2004, 7:21 PM
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As a newbie who had a rough first day and was initially terrified of heights, i'll put in my $.02. We have a HUGE gym.. so there is tons of really technical, hard stuff (85ft lead routes that go up on the ceiling, something like 100 topropes..) When you're setting routes, please make sure there is a nice progression from 5.7s on up, so that people who are just starting out and can't get outside until it warms up can move their way up in difficulty (building strength) without getting stuck in a gym where everything is incredibly hard. For me, just being able to get up a few walls - not routes, just WALLS - was a BIG breakthrough. I got the confidence I needed to try harder stuff and not be scared.
I LOVE trying the overhangs and lips and stuff, but it's still hard for me, and it is just really nice to know that the gym has several slabs I know I can get up. They have a variety of holds - from jugs to crimps to chips to slopers to 3 finger holds - and require thought and sometimes some big reaches and precarious footholds to make it up... you can also do some cool balancey practice on them, so they're not just for newbies. AND the slabs have set routes on them, so you can either mess around and use all the holds or try the 5.10a with really tricky holds.
Also, 'easier' routes are great warmups.. and are good for the last climb of a long night of climbing and especially after you fell repeatedly trying that dyno on an overhang 30 feet up and you and your belayer are too pumped to stand.. It means we can climb for LONGER, because we can go back and do a 'rest' route on one of the slabs, so the elvis legs don't set in for at least a few hours, anyways. I think that's important for building strength initially. Just climbing and pacing yourself a bit and being able to climb all night.
I guess my point is that 'easy' routes don't have to be boring or dumb. I definitely have to think my way up those slabs. Make sure there are some routes for folks who are starting climbing but aren't yet behemoths of strength. It's just WAY more fun to be able to do challenging stuff that you can accomplish with significant effort and thought than routes you have no hope of sending. That said, I cannot wait to get back to the gym so I can try some of the harder routes this weekend!
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slablizard
Apr 6, 2004, 7:37 PM
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Hate the typical 5.9...V5...5.9 route so easy for the setter, so inconsistent for the climber.
Or the ones hard just becasue bethween hold A and B there's a huge distance and no footholds :wink:
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crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:45 PM
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A 45 foot cieling route that your only aloud to campus *LoL*. Dude just set a route man and someone will DEFINITLY climb it. Everyone has their own standards on how much fun a route is. lata_Skata
-CrAzY
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crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:47 PM
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I just moved here last week and AZontheRocks in the Phoenix area.....awesome gym. Lots of fun routes there. reminds me of Seattle rock gyms.
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katanaman
Apr 7, 2004, 9:34 PM
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if im feeling lazy i like to work technical problems requiring lots of balance and footwork, but on an adrenaline pumping crazy climb day i like to do routes with serious dynos and sketchy mantles and stuff:)
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arrettinator
Apr 7, 2004, 9:57 PM
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I-79 from Grove City to Pittsburgh. :roll:
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sd
Apr 7, 2004, 10:50 PM
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Surely you know different people like alternative styles of routes :P
Personally I like boulder problems with powerful moves. Go and ask the regulars at the gym what sort of new routes they want, there's probably a few who wouldn't mind creating their own new routes free of charge for you.
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gogo
Apr 9, 2004, 4:24 AM
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I'd have to go with routes that have really interesting sequences (the last indoor route I set had three hand-foot matches in a row), or poweful, dynamic boulder problems that require many jumps in a row (so that the result is if you get the problem wired, you can bounce around the bouldering cave like a monkey).
Aside from these two, really technical boulder problems on small slopers and crimps, b/c they force me to work on my feet.
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photon
Apr 9, 2004, 5:04 AM
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the funnest one would be the last one you have to do, when the weather is starting to get nice and you know you won't pull another move on plastic for many many months..
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