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jt512
Aug 26, 2004, 5:24 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Fluxus, the first two times, you write "5.7 - 5.8," rather than just "5.7." And then you say, if you start on 5.7, realize that you're going to have get into the 5.8 - 5.9 range real soon. Had the original poster stated he was practicing technique on 5.8, I would never have written anything. I think we're saying almost the same thing: that for someone who can climb 10-, 5.7 is a kinda easy, and he's going to need to up the ante a little. -Jay As I understand your posts we are not saying the same thing. You appeared to be saying that there is little or no inherent "technique" required to climb a 5.7, and therefore climbing at that grade is of no use to a 5.10 climber. My point is that 5.7 is a fine place for a 5.10 climber to train endurance and to begin developing motor programs for new movement patterns. Naturally, after they develop these motor programs they will need to apply them to more challenging grades but I understand this as being tied to how the brain learns movement rather than what I believe you are describing as the inherent demands of a specific grade. so from my point of view we are saying very different things, unless I miss understood your posts of course. -Cheers
I'm saying that he needs to kick it up one number grade. That's all.
-Jay
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canadiangrl
Aug 26, 2004, 5:26 PM
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To be the best climber I can be, and have some killer fun with my friends. Nicki
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organic
Aug 26, 2004, 5:49 PM
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Jt512 you hijack this thread and then continue to berate people and argue pointlessly and you are the moderator of this forum?????!?!? I was half hoping people would receive good feedback from their goals and training regimes but I guess not, piss poor job you are doing sir.
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asandh
Aug 26, 2004, 5:55 PM
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:x
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jt512
Aug 26, 2004, 6:01 PM
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In reply to: Jt512 you hijack this thread and then continue to berate people and argue pointlessly and you are the moderator of this forum?????!?!? I was half hoping people would receive good feedback from their goals and training regimes but I guess not, piss poor job you are doing sir.
*sigh*. I hijacked the thread, eh? I would think that criticism of someone's training would be germane to the subject of "what are your goals and what are you doing to reach them". Or would just a list of goals and training techniques, rather than a discussion of those techniques, be more helpful.
-Jay
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jt512
Aug 27, 2004, 5:08 AM
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In reply to: I live in L.A.now and I don't have a very good sense of the over all comunity here but all the climbers I have met here are just out to have a good time, don't set goals and don't train in any real sense of the word. This is fine but there is something special about a comunity that is energized by a large number of people trying to do their best.
I think many of us -- myself included -- don't know how to effectively train. Personally, I find it hard to go from the training principles explained in the various climbing training books, to an effective training program/schedule for myself. I don't know a single climbing coach in the L.A. area, ecxept possibly for you, and I don't even know you IRL.
My approach -- if you can call it that -- has been to center my training around the routes I want to redpoint, and to hopefully vary the projects enough to avoid overtraining injuries. I've upped my redpoint level about one letter grade a year for the past several years doing this, but I'm sure there are better ways to organize ones training. This year I have an endurance 5.12d project, a crimpy 13a project, and powerful 13a project I'd like to send. My onsight level seems to improve as my redpoint level does, staying about 1 number grade below my redpoint level.
I noticed that you are doing a tremendous amount of sub-maximum level climbing. Is this because your main goal currently is to improve your onsight level? If you were trying to up your redpoint level would do more training closer to your redpoint level? Is that like asking "who is buried in Grants tomb?"
-Jay
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rockprodigy
Aug 27, 2004, 3:00 PM
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I know what you mean, fluxus.
I live in SLC now, and I always hear the stories of the "glory days" when guys like Dale G, Boone S, Mike C, Mike B and Kelly O climbed and trained together, developing many of the techniques we use now.
These days, I'm the only person I know that trains scientifically. I know lots of people that go to the gym, but they're not doing anything resembling what I call "training". I know the training I do is not always the most fun, but I still don't understand how people can climb year after year, with little if any improvement, and not develop some sort of formal training program. If you're not training, you are basically ignoring the entire field of sports physiology that has taken centuries to develop. It's like getting sick and not going to see a doctor.
My goal this season will be to send 13c. I think it will be a bit of a stretch for me, so I will have to be very disciplined with my training, and calculated in my sending. I usually don't do this, but I plan on getting on a bunch of routes at that grade to find one that feels the "easiest" to me, I will have to find a route that suits my strengths, which I don't usually do.
I will be using my typical training program, but I plan to do a shorter ARC phase. Previously I have done about 4-6 weeks of ARC before beginning the Hypertropy phase, but this summer I skipped the ARC phase altogether (thus shortening the time between Hypertrophy phases) and I had great improvements in my hypertrophy workouts. I still intend to do ARC workouts in between hard workouts, but I won't have such a long ARC phase.
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fluxus
Aug 27, 2004, 4:09 PM
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leaverbiner
Aug 27, 2004, 4:22 PM
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Right now, my climbing goals are simple . . . HAVE FUN! I know it sounds so cliche, but it is true. For about 2 years I pushed and pushed to try to IMPROVE. All the while I had a great time. Then I plateued (sp?). I also started spending more and more time playing golf. When I would climb I found myself not accomplishign what i thought I should so I started to get very frustrated which inveitably lead to me climbing less or enjoying my time climbing less. I LOVE climbing, and I miss how much it used to be as a respite from the rest of my life . . so now, my focus is just on having fun again, enjoying each route, each trip and each thing learned . . . I am sure it will reinvigorate me and improved results will eventually result, but right now the focus is just the enjoyment.
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mjroche
Aug 27, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Simple. My goals are to have fun, get to know interesting people, keep improving, and to see and experience the mountains in a committing way
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chronicle
Aug 27, 2004, 4:51 PM
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My goals are to climb Devils Tower and experience the awesome crack climbing that it holds. And to climb a big wall in two years.
I've been working on crack climbing technique as much as I can to get ready for DT. For the big wall climb, I just keep climbing as much as I can. Doing as many pitches as I can on a weekend to build up my stamina. Also working on my aiding skills, hauling, etc.
Only thing I need now is a partner to tackle my first big wall. Who knows when/where they will show up, but someday, they will be there, and I will be ready.
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rockprodigy
Aug 30, 2004, 3:51 AM
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In reply to: It must be a drag to hear people like me groan'n about the "good old days", sorry about that.
It's not a drag...I like to hear the stories.
In reply to: ...that just tells us that they find other rewards in climbing that are not tied to performance.
I suppose. It seems like the whole point of sport climbing is performance. If I just want to enjoy routes, I go trad climbing.
In reply to: I remember some of your other posts on training, your endurance is impressive and you mention hypertrophy but what about P.E.? If you want to red point 13c in A.F. for example, you want to be bouldering consistant V7 and have gobs(yes 'gobs' is a scientific term) of P.E. Of course you can wait until the weather cools down and travel a bit to get on some longer 13c's as well.
I'm shooting for a peak in late november/early december so that I will be in shape for the VRG season. Those routes suit my style much more than the typical AF routes. I plan on training PE in the gym more this season. I will be pretty busy with school, so I will be forced to train more in the gym which usually yields better training anyway, though not as enjoyable. Furthermore, if I have a project 4 hours away that I can only work on the weekends it will make sense to go into the gym on Tuesday or Wednesday to work the PE, rather than climb routes outdoors, which is what I usually do.
I wish you still lived in SLC. It would be really nice to have a "coach". I'm sure I have many weaknesses I have not identified that would be obvious to another knowledgable person. I'm also pretty sure I over-emphasize strength training and uner-emphazise movement training. Unfortunately, I don't really know how to train movement besides "just climbing". Let me know if you need a lay-person to proof read your book....
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wildtrail
Aug 30, 2004, 7:08 AM
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Why set goals? Set goals aren't always met.
I'm just going with the flow.
I plan on taking up AID climbing and doing at least one wall in my life, but if doesn't happen, it's still all good. :wink:
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asandh
Aug 30, 2004, 3:39 PM
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:)
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rockprodigy
Aug 31, 2004, 6:25 PM
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I climb with Tom occasionaly.
Dude is one route I have in mind, as well as Captain Fantastic and Don't Call me Dude. I'd like to try all of them, then work on the one that I like the most. We'll see....
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boz84
Aug 31, 2004, 7:12 PM
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My main goal is to become as well-rounded as possible in my climbing endavours. I hope to gain experience and skill in alpine/ice within the next couple of years, as well as expanding my skill in leading.
Big on my list is getting into the more technical aspects of climbing, not so much the grades, but what requires a lot of knowledge and skill.
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thebk
Dec 11, 2006, 1:27 AM
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my goal is to get more 5.12 s and get one or two 5.13s befor nationals (usaclimbing) well, you just realy nead to get motivated
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bodyboarder
Dec 11, 2006, 1:59 AM
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My big goal is to redpoint 5.12 before i am 25, and i am 23 now. I currenly get up to low/mid 11s. For training I do 4x4 on 5.10s in the gym once or twice a week and on weekends usually just work on whatever 11 i am trying to send. I also do some light weight lifting at home to keep myself from getting (more) injured and also some light ab workouts. It's been working, my onsight has gone up considerably in the last few months.
Jason
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collegekid
Dec 16, 2006, 1:38 AM
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[quote "organic"]What are your climbing goals and what are you doing to achieve them? [/quote]
More like fitness goals...
1. 1-arm pullup
2. Lose weight for goal #1 and build more all-around fitness through weight training and standard aerobic exercises.
The one-arm pullup will hopefully come with time (I'm taking it slow and steady). Over the past few months, I've gained the ability to do a controlled one-armed negative.
[quote "organic"] Also if you have some good ways to train pinch strength without buying any equipment I would be thankful for the input.[/quote]
Very very simple: Take two peices of 2X4, bolt thick eye-bolts into one side of each, clip weights to these bolts and then just stand and hold it in a pinch grip until failure. I made a slightly fancier variation on this, and I've improved at the exercise since I started doing it.
An even SIMPLER way to build a pinch grip: Take two ~5 inch peices of 2,3, or 4 inch PVC or ABS pipe from Home Depot, tie a loop of climbing rope through each one (maybe a foot or so), and then attach weights to these and hold them in a pinch grip. You can also use these as multipurpose handles for doing pullups etc. The larger diameter (4 inch) makes for a good sloper for doing pullups, if you hold it in an open (i.e. no thumbs) grip.
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thespider
Dec 16, 2006, 1:40 AM
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Loose weight, have fun, chew bubblegum, and kick ass. Oh yeah, I'm all out of bubble gum!
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collegekid
Dec 16, 2006, 1:51 AM
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[quote "fluxus"]
I am also doing a lot of sub max because so many years of climbing have left me pretty broken down. Bouldeing these days is very painful in the ol' back, fingers and wrist. I could boulder hard today and be out for the next four weeks. I am trying to set goals that are reasonable for my phase in life and general Model-T like condition.[/quote]
Sounds to me like some more opposition and cross training would help you more than climbing-specific training. Yoga, light weight lifting, core, and especially wrist and hand rehab would help the pain a lot.
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reno
Dec 16, 2006, 2:14 AM
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thespider wrote: .... chew bubblegum, and kick ass. Oh yeah, I'm all out of bubble gum!
Doooood. Do you know how many demerits you get for citing a line by Rowdy Roddy Piper?
"They" might have lived, but they needed to die. Worst. Movie. Ever.
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thespider
Dec 16, 2006, 3:04 PM
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reno wrote: thespider wrote: .... chew bubblegum, and kick ass. Oh yeah, I'm all out of bubble gum! Doooood. Do you know how many demerits you get for citing a line by Rowdy Roddy Piper? "They" might have lived, but they needed to die. Worst. Movie. Ever.
Dude, that was Duke Nukem 3D. "They" was a ok movie, and Rowdy Roddy Pipper was my favorite pro wrestler, and I didn't remember he said that. BTW, my pro wrestling days have been over for a while, it was a fun escape, but it's not real.
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BoulderTX
Dec 23, 2006, 8:53 PM
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My goals are basic:
1. build strength
2. learn better technique
3. consistently climb 4 days/week
4. stay motivated
5. go to Hueco Tanks and/or Colorado this summer
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jto
Dec 24, 2006, 10:09 AM
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oh I gotta get on the wagon here too... I´m 37 now and started occasional climbing about 5 years ago. Things got more err...  serious about 3 years ago. Height 6´4", weight 180-190 lbs.
1. climb an 8a sport route before I´m 40.
2. climb better when I´m 50 years old when I do now.
3. manage one armer some day
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