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Things which are that important in trad climbing
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timstich


Aug 26, 2004, 2:47 PM
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Whoa! Did I just wake up in Bizzarro world?

UB

Yes. Yes you did.

And your confession that you eventually got into sport climbing is hilarious. I've heard about all these old, grissled traddies that plateaued long ago with their trad and moved on over to sport...very quietly. When you want to push the numbers, those bolts sure have some appeal. Anyone up for a 5.13X trad line? Not bloody likely. But a 5.13 sport route? All you have to lose is your pride.

Now take me to your classic 5.7 trad routes.


Partner cracklover


Aug 26, 2004, 3:00 PM
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102. The prerogative to make terribly tasteless, worn out, and generally just "not funny" jokes about how big your nuts are, how small that girl's rack is, and trading techniques about stuffing things in cracks. Not to mention bongs, dongs, etc.

GO


petsfed


Aug 26, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Gee, you guys really don't get it about "trad climbing."

Its all about the beer at the end of the day. :D

If you can't make it to the bar before closing time, you might as well bivy.......... If you've never climbed without a hangover, you've never lived. :shock:

There are a number of great climbs that would never have been done with out a major hangover driving on the first ascent party upward (Bridwell & Stump = East Face of the Moose's Tooth, etc...). :wink:

Cheers,
Halsted

By these definitions, I am trad climber. Don't be afraid to laugh at yourself sometimes.


verticallaw


Aug 26, 2004, 5:24 PM
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It takes a big man to cry....... but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man :lol:

97. insisting that you be labled a "hardman" while denying that you insisted in the first place.

98. failing to mention your "issues" before embarking on a climb with a new partner (oh yeah I forgot to tell you I get sunstroke real bad so now I'm sick and can't finish the climb)

98. (b) never admitting that you had any problems on said climb after claiming that "I was only testing the new guy to see if he was hard enough to carry an injured climber on rap for 6 pitches"

99. demanding to use your manky, 19 year old 12mm rope to lead with claiming that it has never taken a lead fall.


holden


Aug 26, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Man.. I think there's a bit too much hate in everyones diet.


the_pirate


Aug 26, 2004, 5:55 PM
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Man.. I think there's a bit too much hate in everyones diet.

Wash that hate down with some dark beer and you've got classic hanging belay farts.


robmcc


Aug 26, 2004, 5:55 PM
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99. demanding to use your manky, 19 year old 12mm rope to lead with claiming that it has never taken a lead fall.

I have a 13 year old 11mm. Does that count?

Does it count if I still use it?

Rob


Partner holdplease2


Aug 26, 2004, 5:58 PM
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This isn't hate, this is meant to be funny. And there's some truth to most of it, which makes it extra-good.

First post, I know. You'll get used to it. Welcome.

-Kate.


moose_jaw


Aug 26, 2004, 6:17 PM
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I agree with the beer, but I thought the real attraction to climbing was freedom of movement, and self expression, not bashing other people to BOAST about yourself.


robmcc


Aug 26, 2004, 6:21 PM
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I agree with the beer, but I thought the real attraction to climbing was freedom of movement, and self expression, not bashing other people to BOAST about yourself.

Noob.

Rob


skateman


Aug 26, 2004, 6:27 PM
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I agree with the real attraction to climbing was freedom of movement, and self expression.
As a new trad leader I would like throw in....and living to climb another day! I'm finding the
sharp -end is pretty intense mentally!

S


sirdrinksalot


Aug 26, 2004, 6:31 PM
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i've been climbing for three years, still working on the redpoint for a certain 5.7 trad route at jackson falls. i have one hell of a trad rack. and, i love beer. bash away biatchez


robbovius


Aug 26, 2004, 6:51 PM
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In reply to:
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Man.. I think there's a bit too much hate in everyones diet.

Wash that hate down with some dark beer and you've got classic hanging belay farts.


"Aww jeez, Honey, all I have was some beans and broccolli, with a helping of crabcakes...ooops, incoming!"


crag


Aug 26, 2004, 7:22 PM
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Chipotle Sauce Chili dump into a bag of Fritos....FIRE FIRE FIRE on the Mountain.

Shut and Climb, Cast Off Your Old Tired Ethics, Don't fall prey to the social constucts of climbing. Go home and study ya lil n00b and shut-up ya old fart. Who really cares what you think, killing him softly with his song.


sarcat


Aug 26, 2004, 8:13 PM
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umm..... can I get a ride home? My head hurts.


jt512


Aug 27, 2004, 10:23 PM
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In reply to:
97. making fun of the newbie--"you used cams on that? when i started leading all i used were nuts."

97a. Making fun of the sport climber: You used gear on that? I soloed that in my socks in 1953.

-Jay


tradmanclimbs


Aug 27, 2004, 11:50 PM
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If you want to trad you have to..
#1 like climbs that are longer than 25 meters.
#2 enjoy climbing as a party of 2 and considering yourself a TEAM.
#3 be able to think quickly, move quickly and efficiantly, have good common sense and stay calm in stressfull situations.
#4 not mind a bit of pain every now and then. nasty scree, nasty buggs, heinous approach and decent.
#5 be able to climb well, over your gear.
#6 Enjoy sport climbing and realize that it helps you climb well over your gear. Sport climbing will help you kick the sew that crack up syndrome.
#7 have a mellow enough personality that you don't sweat the small stuff. There is no time for a childish fit because you couldn't stick the dyno to the sloper on pitch 7 when there are still 4 pitches to go.
#8 Learn how to cheat, its better than decending in the dark :twisted:
#9 like beer.
#10 like beer 8^)


highminded


Aug 28, 2004, 1:06 AM
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102. Bring your mangy, smelly, ill-behaved dog to the crag, leave him to his own devices while you climb your multi-pitch route, then return from your descent and act persecuted when the other climbers at the crag get on your case because your stupid mutt spent the day sniffing their crotches, slobering all over their ropes, barking incessently, begging food and pissing on their packs.

(So, how come nobody every brings their cat to the crag???) :wink:


dr.ed
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This is a sequence of my partner Mike leading Baby, The Trapps, 'Gunks in 1980... oh, it is only rated 5.6 (I don't remember the chockstone which apparently is not there anymore).

Mike belayed with a figure 8, and I had a stitch plate (but I don't use it anymore). The rope was the standard of the day, 50m, 11mm and 3 falls. It was kernmantle... Mike's rack was a set of stoppers, a set of hexes and some tied slings. It looks like he got three good pieces in on his way to the Grand Traverse Ledge.

Mike is climbing in EB's, and there was no manufacturer of designer climbing clothes.

I don't remember if beer was invented yet.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=38973


unabonger


Sep 13, 2004, 1:47 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
philbox moved this thread from Community to General.

Whoa! Did I just wake up in Bizzarro world?

UB

Yes. Yes you did.

And your confession that you eventually got into sport climbing is hilarious. I've heard about all these old, grissled traddies that plateaued long ago with their trad and moved on over to sport...very quietly.

That's me! Except for the grizzled part. And the quiet part. And the plateaued part.

In reply to:

When you want to push the numbers, those bolts sure have some appeal. Anyone up for a 5.13X trad line? Not bloody likely. But a 5.13 sport route? All you have to lose is your pride.
I had the advantage of having no pride to begin with!
In reply to:

Now take me to your classic 5.7 trad routes.

The Bulge! My fave! Let's go! Of course, it was retro-bolted, on rappel, you realize?

UB


ascender30


Sep 13, 2004, 2:03 PM
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103. Scare the ever-living $heet out of yourself on trad lead, then rap off, brag on nut size, and pester some noob to pull the rope and lead it on your pre-placed gear...."ya know, kid...just like in the gym!"

104. Beer

105. BJs from the noobs who don't know enough about you to hate you yet.

106. Beer

107. Stories of those whippers of the past get L...O...N...G...E...R every year.


dgkula


Sep 13, 2004, 2:20 PM
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108. running two "short" pitches together with your doubles, running out of rope way over your last piece of pro, downclimbing slab, building a bomber anchor in a sweet crack and loving every minute of it.


far_east_climber


Sep 13, 2004, 2:20 PM
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109. Rubbing your hands violently in a crack when nobody is looking. "HEY GUYS LOOK AT THIS HARDCORE CRACK CLIMB I JUST DID"


Partner tgreene


Sep 13, 2004, 2:31 PM
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110. Know how to rig a harness with nothing more than a 48" sewn sling and 2 biners. :wink:

111. Learned to rappel using a "biner break", and therefore shunning the idea of these new fad devices, such as an ATC. :shock:

112. Can generally climb equally well barefoot!

113. Often wears socks inside of climbing shoes to protect extremely sore and tender feet, after having climbed the first couple pitches barefoot! :mrgreen:


corpse


Sep 13, 2004, 2:43 PM
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114. Uses a horizontal crack, on the 5th pitch, mid climb, as a beer bottle opener.

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