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stevematthys


May 15, 2002, 2:52 AM
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Where do you guys think the mecca of trad climbing is? No aid climbs, just free trad routes. Personally I like Eldorado Springs, Colorado a lot.


blindslap


May 15, 2002, 3:00 AM
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i like little cottonwood canyon. not yosemite climbing but i live ten minutes away from it so i love it.


Partner tim


May 15, 2002, 3:18 AM
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Uh, I'll take "Yosemite" for $100, Alex.

Damn Boulderites.


danl


May 15, 2002, 3:25 AM
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Gunks..a place for all abilities


phil_nev


May 15, 2002, 4:09 AM
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Mount Aarpiles, in Australia. U know those micro nuts, the RP's, they were designded specificly for Araps. With over 2000 climbs, all being trad except for maybe 40 routes, it caters for evyone with grades ranging from grade 3(5.3) to 32(5.14c/d). It has it all..... It has over 1000 TOP quality routes, from long multipitch rambles, to short pumpy powerfull faces and overhangs.

IT IS THE TRAD MECCA!!!!!!
Check out these sites if you dont belive me.....
www.arapilies.com
www.arapilies.net
www.neilshaulbag.com (Under the trip reports for arapiles)


milesdesbrie


May 15, 2002, 4:15 AM
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Gotta be Yosemite.


crap


May 15, 2002, 5:44 AM
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I'd like to know more about Mount Aarpiles, in Australia. But till something moves closer to my front door, I gotta vote for my home town rock, Red Rock NV.


jhump


May 15, 2002, 6:13 AM
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If you've never been to Seneca, you have to try it. The climbing is unique and in an amazing setting.


Partner tim


May 15, 2002, 6:37 AM
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I can think of several places that are more amazing than Seneca. (I was there this past weekend) Yosemite, the Needles, Tuolumne, RMNP, Looking Glass, Table Rock SC, and Sky Top come immediately to mind. And that's just in the USA.

Come on people, have a sense of history. Yosemite is where US-style trad climbing was born and reborn. There are three places that are so far beyond veneration in climbing lore it's not even a question -- Everest basecamp, Chamonix, and Camp IV in Yosemite. The determination of which one is the 'trad mecca' is left as an exercise for the reader.



crux_clipper


May 15, 2002, 9:38 AM
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You would cream your pants if you saw Araps, it's that good


traddaddy


May 15, 2002, 1:54 PM
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For me, I would have to say Seneca Rocks WV and Red River Gorge KY run neck and neck for 1st place. But I'm biased, being that I live in the middle of the flatland and real climbing is 4 hours away. There is nothing wrong with Colorado or the mountain states, but that is one long freaking roadtrip!! WHHHHAAAAAAAAAA!!!



killclimbz


May 15, 2002, 2:02 PM
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I would have to vote for Yosemite. Eldorado is sort of a trad area, but an awful lot of the trad climbs have a sport feel to them. Clipping pins every 5 feet etc...


Partner tim


May 15, 2002, 4:40 PM
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Quote:

For me, I would have to say Seneca Rocks WV and Red River Gorge KY run neck and neck for 1st place. But I'm biased, being that I live in the middle of the flatland and real climbing is 4 hours away. There is nothing wrong with Colorado or the mountain states, but that is one long freaking roadtrip!!



And that, my friend, is why it is a Mecca. People make pilgrimages from Germany, Thailand, India, Australia, Canada, Finland, and Britain to climb in Yosemite, and that's just the ones that have hitched rides from me when I was living in SF! It does sound like the Arapiles is way cool, and of course the Rockies, Squamish, the Frankenjura, the North Cascades, and Patagonia are also way-high on my list. But when push comes to shove, asked to name one place that commands pilgrims come from all around to bask in its glory, I will name Yosemite, the crown jewel of the Sierra Nevada. (well, one of the crown jewels of that range, at least )


bradhill


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I'd have to go for Boulder. There is no "one spot" in Colorado that compares to Yosemite, but the variety of climbing accessible for somebody living here is stunning. Eldorado canyon is just one little-teensy-bit of the available climbing.

For sandstone trad you have Eldo and the Flatirons. There are dozens of roadside routes in Boulder Canyon you can hit on a lunch break. An hour up the road you have five-star granite at Lumpy Ridge and a host of excellent multipitch wilderness climbs in RMNP including the 1600 foot vertical east face of Longs Peak with free routes up to 5.13b topping out at 14,000+ feet.


It's also just a one day road trip to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Rifle Mountain Park or many destinations in Utah.


We get 300+ days of sunshine a year, the weather is good enough to climb 10 months out of the year and boulder year round, and there's plenty of ice and alpine around for a change of pace.


Downsides: It's damn expensive to live here and filled with rich college brats.


quart


May 15, 2002, 7:07 PM
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Smith Rocks, of course.


danl


May 15, 2002, 7:26 PM
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You asked for a trad mecca...people go to Yosemitie to aid to do trad bolted faces etc. the red and the new are mostly sport areas. People go to the gunks for one reason only. To trad climb.


Partner polarwid


May 15, 2002, 8:17 PM
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YOSEMITE, bolted faces? Most of the faces I have done there are WAY run out, and Tuolumne has like one bolt every 100 feet!!! Have you ever heard of the COOKIE CLIFF, Serenity CRack, outer limits, lunatic fringe, astroman, etc,etc... these are CRACKS, not faces...

COLORADO (most places), YOSEMITE, GUNKS and Cathedral Ledge are where the trad ethic is still enforced, SMITH rock is sport, as is the NEW RIVER GORGE, etc. TRAD RULES!!!


stevematthys


May 15, 2002, 9:02 PM
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yea, smith rock is sport


benfieldj


May 15, 2002, 9:11 PM
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Got to be the Llanberis Pass in North Wales


indigo_nite


May 16, 2002, 5:23 AM
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if mecca is where you go to worship or be close to... so far, Joshua Tree has been my mecca. but if mecca is where I want to go to be inspired by rock, that's a growing list... tahquitz, yosemite, red rocks, zion, needles, gunks, squamish. it's the next beckoning place that I've never been.


climber1


May 16, 2002, 7:56 PM
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the original question was free climbing, not aid. would have to say Eldo, Joshua Tree, Red Rocks, Tahquitz, Mt. Lemon, too many.


dsafanda


May 16, 2002, 8:10 PM
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I had no idea people had such a strange view of Yosemite. Yosemite is trad central USA. On any given day, 95% of the climbing going on is traditional free climbing...not aid climbing.


cedk


May 17, 2002, 1:55 PM
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I can't believe this is even being argued. Yosemite!
One day I'll make the pilgrimage to Yosemite.
The thing about Yosemite is that it's not just a trad mecca. It's THE rock climbing mecca.




radistrad


May 17, 2002, 2:12 PM
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Yosemite has to be the best climbing around. We are talking trad heaven. If you've never been to Yosemite you must go. The walls are steep, clean and some of them go on for over 3000 feet.
If you can climb 5.10 in Yosemite I do believe that you can climb 5.10 any place.

There is no such thing as a bolted trad climb. I avoid most of the bolted lines in the Valley, they tend to be run out and hard!
Sure lots of people go to do aid routes in theValley, but the majority of the climbers are there for the TRAD


climbjs


May 17, 2002, 2:15 PM
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Devils Tower, Wyoming.


dustinap
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May 18, 2002, 5:41 PM
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I'm haven't climbed at nearly enough places to cast a vote, but regaring "If you can climb 5.10 in Yosemite I do believe that you can climb 5.10 any place" I have to say the Gunks 5.10's would be harder.


crackaddict


May 19, 2002, 3:56 PM
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Definatley Yosemite is the biggest trad destination. Since it is the birth place of American rock climbing and trad climbing.
There are alot of areas like the Gunks, The Diamond that are pure trad. But what about North Carolina. Looking Glass, White sides, etc. would make even the most acomplished trad climbers quake.
Another that no one mentioned is Zion! Way Trad. Indian creek! Nothing but cracks there!
As far as a city that is pretty trad is Flagstaff AZ. Surouned by trad areas with strict ethics. Like Paridise Forks, Oak Creek Overlook, Sedona, Winslow Wall, East Pocket, Sycamore Point, West Elden, and Secret Canyon. All trad and within 40 minutes from town. There are few sport areas but the two don't usually co-exist with eachother.

[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-05-19 14:11 ]


climb512


May 19, 2002, 4:05 PM
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gunks


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May 19, 2002, 5:16 PM
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From experience I'll say Eldo. From what I hear and dream, it's Yosemite hands down.


tanderson


May 19, 2002, 7:17 PM
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Polarwind...

COLORADO (most places), YOSEMITE, GUNKS and Cathedral Ledge are where the trad ethic is still enforced, SMITH rock is sport, as is the NEW RIVER GORGE, etc. TRAD RULES!!!

I'd have to argue that The New River isn't just a "sport" area. With several thousand routes, there is quite a bit of great trad climbing. The beauty of the trad there is that you hardly ever find anyone on it. You pretty much have your pick as to the trad line that you want without any wait. That can't be said for Cathedral, Gunks, etc... Most moderate climbs usually have a party or two waiting to get on 'em. I'm not saying that the New isn't a trad mecca, but it is a great place to trad climb. Yosemite is the Trad Mecca!


Partner tim


May 19, 2002, 9:57 PM
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If anyone out there believes "if you can climb 5.10 in Yosemite, you can climb it anywhere", I invite you for a tour of 5.10's at Seneca, Millbrook, and Poke-o-Moonshine. You can lead. I'll belay/catch. Let's throw in a few meat-grinder wide fists in JTree, at Suicide, or in the Needles for good measure.
If you also can climb any 5.11, 5.12, or 5.13 in Yosemite, that is another story altogether, although I'd love to watch someone like that climb the trade routes...

Yosemite grades are *accurate* rather than sandbaggy. You may well die if you take grades at face (Yosemite-equivalent) value in some other areas. I don't think this is a Good Thing, but it most certainly is The Way It Is, in my experience (and others').

I'm not disparaging places like Eldo when I deny them the status of Mecca -- the bold, hard trad ethic is alive and well in CO (and CA, and NH, and elsewhere, eg. Great Britain), but as others have mentioned "there is no one place in CO that compares with the stature of Yosemite" (paraphrased slightly). Personally I think RMNP comes pretty damn close, but that summary (from CO advocates, no less!) is pivotal in defining why Yosemite is as close to a trad Mecca as you'll see.

Those of you who are talking about "only aid" and "bolted cracks" are out of your fucking minds. Either you're trolling or you've never been to Yosemite. I submit to you Central Pillar of Frenzy, Meat Grinder, and Separate Reality -- I defy you to find a bolt between the belay anchors of any of these.


[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-19 15:00 ]


stevematthys


May 22, 2002, 9:25 PM
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hell yes, colorado kicks ass, i would know......I LIVE HERE!!!HAHAHAHA!!!

no, i think that trad mecca would have to go to rmnp, eldo, or yosemite.


uncle_big_green


May 23, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Eldo has a decent trad ethic for the most part. However, there is no way in heck that Boulder is a trad mecca. Boulderites like to think that Boulder is the center of the climbing universe (not too much offense to you boulderites). The thing that negates this claim is one place - Boulder Canyon (can you say Sport Park?). Additionally, the S. Platte is at least as trad as Eldo., though it too has a few blemishes.

I have climbed in many, but not all, places in the US and I would have to say that North Carolina is the Trad Mecca. Why? Probably nothing in that state is rap-bolted and the routes are bold. As a geographic entity, it is the last bastion of traditional climbing in the US. From overhanging quartzite walls in the Linville Gorge area to the steep run-out water grooves of Cashiers Valley it is TRAD all the way.


phlyfisher


May 23, 2002, 8:21 PM
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City of Rocks or Indian Creek. Both have great splitters and the scenery is fantastic.

Climb on climber


tylerphillips


May 23, 2002, 10:02 PM
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  I would have to say Cedar city Utah


addiroids


May 25, 2002, 5:35 AM
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Of course I have to place my vote:

Yosemite

First off, it's Yosemite. Do I have to say any more. Secondly, what the hell is Cedar City?? Never heard of it and as a devout Climslim (Climber + Muslim) I make my month long pilgrimage to the holy land once or more times a year. Cedar City my ass (no offense to the locals who like the place, but that's like calling Big Rock the epicenter of American Sport Climbing).

TRADitionally yours,

Cali Dirtbag


joemor


May 28, 2002, 7:06 AM
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before any of you decide you have to come to australia.... mt arapalies, the grampians, blue mountains ect etc

the whole country is a trad mecca!


joe


crackaddict


May 29, 2002, 12:11 AM
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Just got back from the land of the Jams!

YES!
INDIAN CREEK!!!!


Oh so trad!

In 3 weeks I will be in
YOSEMITE!!!!!

WOOOOOO!!!! HHHHOOOOOOOO!!!!

TRAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



joemor


May 29, 2002, 12:36 AM
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lol
oh so trad




crackaddict


May 29, 2002, 12:45 AM
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I know Joe,
I have'nt been to Austraila yet!
But I cannot beat what I have here.
It is such good stuff!!!


maculated


May 29, 2002, 1:03 AM
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Crack Addict, me too. If you head out to Tuolumne, I need climbing partners. . . hint hint


kullaberg


May 29, 2002, 3:59 AM
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inner sanctum of trad dom ?

the black canyon of the gunnison.

without question.

go there and you'll know.


phil_nev


May 30, 2002, 6:49 AM
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Sorry to inform you joe but the blue mountains is almost ALL sport routes, there are very few trad areas...


But Arapiles is deffinitly up there with the best in the world...


joemor


Jun 3, 2002, 2:48 AM
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true phil blue mountain have alot of sport routes but they aslo have some excelent trad areas.... ecco point, hanging rock, ikara, and of course piddington.

joe


rocknpowda


Jun 7, 2002, 5:52 PM
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I'll have to go with tylerphillips-
THE PLACE TO BE FOR TRAD IS MOST DEFINITELY


CEDAR CITY, UTAH


bouldertoad


Jun 13, 2002, 6:01 AM
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The best trad climbing place hands down is wherever you are racking up your gear for the day. I mean who can say that they did not have any fun the last time they went out climbing? A bad day of climbing is bettter than the best day at work...
That being said I like seneca and the gunks deleware water gap t-wall........the list goes on and on


camsticker


Jun 13, 2002, 10:37 PM
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How about Europe!! Alps, Carpatheons, etc. Where Trad began


camsticker


Jun 13, 2002, 10:39 PM
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But if we are talking about NA, then I would have to say Yosemite!


bearshaman


Jun 15, 2002, 9:36 PM
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Holy Places (in no particular order)

Mecca
Jerusalem
St. Peters
Yosemite
Moms Kitchen at dinner time


woodse


Jun 16, 2002, 12:25 AM
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I'm surprised by the relatively few votes for Indian Creek, Yosemite....definitely a mecca, Eldorado....no way. People don't travel from all over the world just to climb at eldo but they do come to bag the perfect cracks at Indian creek and the limitless rock rising out of the Yosemite valley. Seems to me some people should check their defintion of "mecca."

woodsE


kerouac


Jun 17, 2002, 3:05 AM
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I believe only one other person even metioned it.
SQUAMISH.
For you Yanks, that in BC. You know. Canada.


evergreen


Jun 20, 2002, 8:10 PM
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Just got back from Squamish and I would now put that up on my list as a trad mecca! The only prob is the rain.


billburning


Jun 27, 2002, 3:41 PM
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I'd definitly go with Indian Creek for the splitter cracks, and the rest of Utah for the amount and quality of the rock. Oh wait, no I wouldn't the climbing sucks, no one in their right mind would climb there. As for Eldo, whatever, you boulderites need to get your collective heads out of your asses, hop in your SUV's and climb somewhere else...on second thought, don't.


punk


Jun 27, 2002, 3:56 PM
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Mecca = Yosemite
Regional Mosques
Cathedral NH
Gunk's NY
Seneca WV
ETC
But the god of climbing is everywhere and he will hear you from anywhere


[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-06-27 17:52 ]


atg200


Jun 27, 2002, 4:21 PM
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Quote:As for Eldo, whatever, you boulderites need to get your collective heads out of your asses, hop in your SUV's and climb somewhere else...on second thought, don't.

brilliant. absolutely brilliant.

i'll call the bullshit card on the "if you lead 5.10 in yosemite, you lead it anywhere" statement. how about this:

if you lead 5.10 at yosemite, the gunks, cannon cliff, whitesides, vedauwoo, the needles(both ca and sd), canyonlands, and rocky mountain national park, you can lead it anywhere.

i can't pick one. i'd say the gunks for the 5.10 and under leader and indian creek or yosemite for the 5.10 and up leader.


lemon_boy


Jun 27, 2002, 9:58 PM
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woodse! shame on you! people don't come from all over the world to hit eldo? uhhh, jerry moffatt, ben moon, jean-christoph lafaille, stevie haston, johnny dawes, etc., not to metion lynn hill, royal robbins, chuck pratt, tom frost, derek hersey, etc., not to mention the gazillion people who move there for the climbing. eldo is definitely a mecca. but not THE mecca.

you are absolutely correct that YOSEMITE is THE mecca. the desert is DEFINITELY up there too. i have no idea how those euro bad asses can never climb crack and then come to indian creek and STROLL up the sh#t. must be something in the water over there!


mreardon


Jun 28, 2002, 12:34 AM
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Too many places, but in the end I agree with GEO - it's where you make it. Personally, I think Joshua Tree is the best for placing gear but not being stuck in just the cracks (plus there is something about the desert air - no bugs, no rain), and the Needles, CA for multi-pitch. No matter where you go on both, the climbs are so clean you would think that people have been on them for years!


apollodorus


Jun 28, 2002, 2:38 AM
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A mecca is where fanatical pilgrims from all over the world travel to. The ONLY place that fits this description in the climbing world is Yosemite Valley. All the other alleged candidates are merely nice or great places to climb. They don't qualify as a mecca because they don't have the international reputation and draw.


taxexile


Jun 28, 2002, 1:40 PM
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  Uhh? What about Chamonix, dude, or any one of many French crags like Verdon or Buoux. You can get your gear stolen by climbers of many different nationalities at any of these locations.


ffaallliinngg


Jul 7, 2002, 5:58 AM
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I have to second Joshua Tree. Plenty of climbs at accessible grades for us less-than-hard men (and plenty of tough stuff, too, 9 months season (12 if you don't mind sweating a bit), no lines on weekends if you can handle a 20-minute hike, no hiking if you come on a weekday or don't mind waiting, within 2 1/2 hours of most Southern Californians, user-friendly weather, over 3000 routes, fantastic scenery, every move on every route is unique, sew-it-up routes, runouts, you name it. Josh's only weakness is a relative lack of long multipitch routes.


wildtrail


Jul 8, 2002, 6:20 AM
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One word.

Yosemite.

Why would you even think otherwise?

Tomato, tomato.

Steve


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


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