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Why do you enjoy trad more than sport?
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sparky


Jun 2, 2002, 4:41 AM
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Do you like to climb trad more than sport? I do and i'm was just wondering which you prefer more and why?


blindslap


Jun 2, 2002, 5:35 AM
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i like trad climbing mostly because of the rock ethics side to it. it seems un-natural and somewhat wrong, to drill a hole in a un-renuable source and then place a shiny stainless steel hanger on it. it seems to take a little of the "climbing" out of it. I think placing your own gear seems a little more "true"
just my opinion


bmgard


Jun 2, 2002, 6:09 AM
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I like Trad because there is more to it. Not only do you have to climb the route but you have to protect it to. Plus you can do onsights. You can hike back in some where and just climb stuff that looks cool with out anything telling you where to go.


evergreen


Jun 2, 2002, 6:20 AM
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I also like it because I can just find a rock and give it a try. I did a bunch of sport first but then saw the need to get out and place my own pro. The other reason I like it is the amount of gear! I love to play with all of it and see the diff. things that will work.


natec


Jun 2, 2002, 6:54 AM
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I like trad because I find it more fulfilling. I'm completely independent. I decide when and where I am protected, and it's up to me to figure out whether I'm on route or off. When I finish a route, be it one pitch or several, I have the satisfaction of looking at that piece of rock and know that I climbed it completely by my own means. The difficulty typically matters none to me.


stevematthys


Jun 2, 2002, 6:43 PM
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because it is the shit.


beyond_gravity


Jun 2, 2002, 7:04 PM
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I'm a scrambler, being a scrambler simul trad climbing on stuff thats rated 5.2 is extremely fun for me. Up Up and away!

Rock On,
Jeremy


crackaddict


Jun 3, 2002, 1:58 AM
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I like it for a number of reasons.
One is trad climbs tend to be in the most beautful areas. There is nothing like being way up on a multi pitch climb enjoying the views. I like that you can take out whatever gear you place.
There is so much adventure involved too.
Its cool jumping on a long route not sure exactly where you are supposed to go. But then you end up finding it along the way.
Plus I like to jam. It makes me happy!


Partner camhead


Jun 3, 2002, 2:08 AM
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I was just thinking about this the other day. I have really poor short term memory, and thus I struggle on sport routes that require complicated sequences and such. Hence my love of trad/crack. Not much beta to memorize beyond "handjam, footjam, handjam, footjam".

Could this be why so many more stoners climb trad?

Uhh... not that I.. uhh...


Partner tim


Jun 3, 2002, 2:16 AM
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More exhilarating, better views for the most part. More freedom to just climb wherever. Generally sparser crowds.

For sport or alpine climbs that meet these criteria, you can substitute "why do you like these particular sporty or alpine climbs more than the crappy chimney in the back of the Dihedrals" or whatever...

Kind of obvious imho.



joemor


Jun 3, 2002, 2:23 AM
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i climb trad for all the reasons above, it adds just another level, placing pro, buying gear, climbing clean, climbing where ever u want. i ean just the other day i climbed a bridge, it is bolted but you can do a traverse trad which isnt protected sport.

and because if i climbed sport only i would be limiting myself muchly, australia is the land of trad and most sport routes are 23+ (5.11somthing or rather) which i cant climb yet.

long live autralia..... the land of trad.


joe


bmsullivan


Jun 3, 2002, 2:27 AM
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I prefer trad because you can walk up to just about anything and climb it. I can protect when and where I want. Most of the trad areas I have been to are also more appealing. Plus, I like the personality types that are attracted to trad. Just a lot of down home easy going people. (The ones I have met anyways... ) And last, but not least...I love fiddeling with the gear........


froggy


Jun 3, 2002, 2:34 AM
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1 word
FREEDOM!


arsenalcrater


Jun 3, 2002, 3:23 AM
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Trad climbing is...well trad climbing. You can't beat the rush of taking a big whipper on a #00 tcu and having it hold as opposed to falling on a drilled bolt. It's all for the effect man....just like drinkin....who the hell likes non-alcoholic beer??? Well, that is my comparison anyways....FALLING!!!


stevematthys


Jun 3, 2002, 4:16 AM
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sparky likes non-alcohlic beer. (inside joke)


rickoldskool


Jun 3, 2002, 6:31 AM
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I've already answered this question HERE. Now don't ask again!


benfieldj


Jun 3, 2002, 10:49 AM
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It's how I learned and I live in North Carolina where most routes are trad. I would climb trad no matter where I was because to me it is rock climbing.


phil_nev


Jun 3, 2002, 11:21 AM
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Pleaseesee oH Pleeaaasseeeee.....
Not again....
who says that i enjoy trad more than sport, or sport more than bouldering... This yopic is getting almost as bad as the how hard (meaning WHAT F$%#&*G GRADE) do u climb.....
Sorry if thats a bit harsh, but ive absolutly had it.

Also, alll those holier than art thou trad climbers who think they are better than the sporties, get over youselves. I would love to be able to lead trad, but i dont know how to do it safely enough for my liking, so i stick to sport routes.... does that make me less of a person in your eyes.... if so, BAD LUCK! Get over it and get a life!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


joemor


Jun 4, 2002, 1:52 AM
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chill out phil,

its posted in the trad forum, hence aimed at those who like trad and love trad its not saying sport is better or worse than trad, simply asking those who choose to climb trad why they choose it over sport. it all comes down to personal prefrence it would be the same as posting "wy do u like sport over trad?" in the sport forum, i personally find it interesting to know what others get out of trad as it is different to sport and i believe gives you different gains and at the same time different down sides.

anyways...


joe


Partner rrrADAM


Jun 5, 2002, 3:03 AM
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I enjoy them mental "chess game" that is Trad. I push my technique on Sport, but Trad takes that and problem solving, with confidence as key, as I have taken a couple 5.12 Sport climbers to J-Tree only to watch them pee themselves only 10 feet above a piece. They didn't even trust it enough to let me lower them, they instead traversed to a down-climb.

To quote a girl in one of the climbing Mags...
"Trad will take me where Sport never will."



rrrADAM


phil_nev


Jun 5, 2002, 4:03 PM
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Sorry,
didnt notice it was in the trad forum, just saw it on the main page and id had enough...
I willl go back to clipping bolts now ok.............


indigo_nite


Jun 5, 2002, 10:36 PM
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I like having a higher learning curve with trad. Multi-pitch views are incredible and almost surreal.

Building anchors is a blend of science and art. Building a satisfying trad rack has become somewhat of an obsession though and that's not always the best thing. Both styles of climbing make me happy though.


feelio


Jun 5, 2002, 10:52 PM
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More room for self expression, taking the rock on it's own terms, and uncertainty is the tastiest factor of adventure!


sezumpf


Jun 5, 2002, 11:43 PM
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It also allows you to easily avoid the crowds that sport crags seem to generate. Part of the fun of climbing is getting away from everyone and when I go to a sport area more times than not I feel more crowded than if I had gone to the mall.


hangdoggypound


Jun 6, 2002, 12:01 AM
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WOW. I'd just like to say "Amen, preach on muh-bruthus 'n sistahs" to the responses so far.

Cracks are cool


lesotho


Jun 7, 2002, 9:31 PM
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After my first multipitch (and my first pitch leading on trad) I swore I would go back to the bolted routes and NEVER climb trad again.
I was &**^&^% SCARED.
I did not trust my placements or the gear.

The most experienced climber (15 years of trad climbing) in our crew took me to a single pitch crag one day after that. I belayed him as he went up putting in placements that looked impossibly weak to me. As he reached the top he just kicked off and shouted YEEHAAAA!

His top nut (and the weakest placement) held him on a nice 3 m runout.
I was convinced.

The freedom, the scenery and the purity of it as a sport appeals to me.
There is nothing better than hanging 300ft up trying to find the right cam while your arm is getting pumped beyond belief.
It is an art.

If you're not living on the edge (or hanging from it), you are taking up too much space.


climbjs


Jun 7, 2002, 10:04 PM
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Self-sufficiency.


clam


Jun 8, 2002, 11:55 PM
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It's absolutely clean. Two climbers hop scotch up a wall cleaning up after one another and it is as if they were never there. No trace. Vanished. Ghosts.

[ This Message was edited by: clam on 2002-06-08 16:56 ]


drock


Jun 10, 2002, 2:12 AM
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Trad is sexy, ! Nothing like seeing a woman leading a heinous crack, calmly sliding in a piece of gear, looking to eval the next moves, then executing. There is just something about it.


Partner dondiego


Jun 10, 2002, 2:29 AM
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Ditto to all above plus I really agree with Adam about it making people really think about their confidence. I primarily climb trad because it is something that I can do that the little gym-monkey that can hang upside-down on glass is still a little too scared to do. It kind of puts most of us on a more level playing field. I have some friends that are really great climbers and all of them still get nervous when climbing trad because it's al on YOU.
-Don Diego-


traide


Jun 10, 2002, 2:45 AM
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ok, enough with all the trad climbers... where are the posts supporting sport?

I for one enjoy sport more. This is mainly because I don't trust myself enough to climb on my own placements, nor do I know enough about the form to make it safe for me. I get much more peace of mind on sport, which is a big thing for me as far as the level of fun is.

I have nothing against trad climbers, I just happen to enjoy sport more myself.


biggernhell


Jun 10, 2002, 3:06 PM
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Sport is cool and all, but theres nothing like that odd combination of holding on for dear life while simultaneously fishing in brassies, sweating like a maniac, and trying not to s--- your pants.


camsticker


Jun 10, 2002, 5:22 PM
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I like TRAD because it allows you more freedom in route selection. You are free to climb where "you" want to...not just where someone else has routed. I think it comes down to one thing "choice".


sparky


Jun 13, 2002, 4:51 AM
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i actually trust my own placements more than fixed pro, I have no idea how long those rusty old bolts have been there but i doknow that my placement will hold because I put it there


socialclimber


Jun 24, 2002, 1:40 PM
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I like trad cause I get to walk around with lots of flash gear. The instructions for my Petzl Calidris advise a max of 5kg of gear per loop but I'm tellin ya, I can easily get 10! Excuse me, gotta go....need more shiny, tinkley things...


laurent


Jun 24, 2002, 3:27 PM
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Why should anyone necessarily have to love more one than other (not talking about tarts here)? Why can't you love them both for what they are.
The reason I love trad is because you are not necessarily in the difficulty aspect of climbing. Not everybody has to climb 5.14 to be happy! You could be out there in nature, possibly in some very remote or quiet place, climbing an easy multi-pitch route that could take you one day if you want. No hurry, you are here to enjoy the view and the climbing. You place your gear as you want. No matter how strong you are, you also have to find your route, think about what gear you have to place, and trust that #1 stopper that you have 3 meters below your feets.
Trad is cool!

[ This Message was edited by: laurent on 2002-06-24 08:30 ]


rocknpowda


Jun 24, 2002, 3:56 PM
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I don't think I like one or the other better. I take road trips to sport areas as much as trad areas and like to go places where both are available. I don't see any reason, unless your local crag is all sport or all trad to only do one or the other. I've done routes that required a pieces of gear spaced among bolts, is that a trad climb or a sport climb? Its neither it's just a climb. I find that sport and trad compliment each other. For instance doing both lets you know how to get through a hard sport move via a finger lock or hand jam and on trad routes you have the confidence to leave the crack and bust face moves through a hard section. Do what you like-I like them both.


dsafanda


Jun 24, 2002, 4:08 PM
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Seems like the time and place for that old line that goes something like....

Sport clmbing is sort of like sport f!#*&#$. It's really really fun but doesn't require any commitment.

[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-06-24 09:15 ]


uncle_big_green


Jun 28, 2002, 3:37 PM
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...because intercourse is better than masturbation.

[ This Message was edited by: uncle_big_green on 2002-06-28 08:38 ]


ergophobe


Jul 2, 2002, 10:05 PM
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Personally, I like climbing more than I like semantics.

When I started climbing there was no such thing as trad climbing - that's right. Trad only exists as a distinction from sport and before sport climbing existed there was only... what? Trad? Nope. Climbing. Sometimes routes had bolts, sometimes routes had fixed pitons. Sometimes they just took pins. A bit later, they sometimes took just nuts, sometimes in several senses of that word.

I get bored with short routes, be they on fixed gear or placed gear, and I get bored more quickly on routes where the gear is all pre-placed.



mobius


Jul 5, 2002, 5:42 AM
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Well...Before I get to the actually reasons of why I like Trad over Sport, I'm going to give you a little history on myslef...yes, there is a reason for it...

I started climbing in a gym, made the natural progression to bouldering outdoors, then finly sport climbing. I was having a blast trying hard problems and sport climbs-tinkering with 12d, trying to get on 13a . It was bliss hanging out with a bunch of buds at a sport crag. Moving to only a few places a day, craning our necks back like at the front row of a movie theater. Getting that little boost from your friends down low when your getting pumped at the crux. It was bliss-but the enevitable happened: I got hurt. Blew out my knee actually. It was hard to walk for a good month, couldent run for about 6, finly started climbing around 7 months (still isent the same ). When I started up again, I took to a sport crag I had been at many times before. I hoped onto my warm-up roots, 8s and 9s, but just couldent seem to pull the moves. It made me so frustruated to look at a hold, imagining myself cranking up on it, feeling like I could when I moved my fingertips onto it, but just not being able to hold on. It drove me crazy! I couldent go out with my old group, I was embarassed. Then someone offered to take me out to a local place when I was in vacation in Durango, Colorado. I was reluctant, but I decided to give it a shot. We went to this area called "X-Rock", this cool lil crag, normally refered to as a beginers area. It had a bunch of TRs, but a few cracks that you could actually trad lead, but nothing hard like i was used to. We did a few little TRs, then we went to the "X". I was confused...no bolts...I belayed him up, and I followed, cleaning. IT WAS GREAT! We got on top of the "X" and I was speachless. I had never summited something before. Get to the top of a cliff, yes, but not a PEAK! No rap chains 5 feet down either, it was all the way to the top! My love of trad began.

I now enjoy going out and just picking a peack to get up. Sometimes we don't even get to the gear, but we make it to the top. When you do climb, its amzing. Only you and your belayer...nearly silent. Sometimes so silent that its loud. You hear the wind in your hair, the soft 'clink' of gear ratting against gear. Placing gear so smoothly that you hardly even stop. Then you get to the top and I always get that immage of the camera circling around us, lol, .

Sport was great, but trad is WAY better in my opininon. One other thing is that I feel safer with my own gear. I never like the fact that you have to get to the next bolt or fall to your last one. With trad, I dont mind running out because I can place gear when and where I want it (for the most part). The masturbation to sex analogie was pretty accurate actuate. One is good, but the other is AWESOME with all the bells and whisles to boot.

And why diden't anyone mention how absolutely SEXY a cam is? I could play with one all day!

Sorry this took up so much space!

Mobius~

(Think I should publish? lol JK JK!)


apollodorus


Jul 5, 2002, 6:08 AM
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Sport climbing is like skateboarding on a ramp: for pussies who can't find an empty swimming pool. That lame clown act they do with the fake holds on MTV is totally gay. And now they do it on Cruise Ships, with old ladies being the latest purveyors of "Sport Climbing". The other day something exceedingly toxic came out of my TV: some sort of "contest" with top-roped buffoons trying to outdo each other on a plywood surface festooned with lumps of Bondo. I'd like to see these "champions" spend one day on the DNB, a real climb rated WAY lower than the numbers flashed on the screen. Trad climbing involves more than just wearing tight shoes and knowing which side of the carabiner opens ("Bent it's sent; flat you'll splat"). Sport climbing is for supermodel boys who can't handle the prospect of having to actually spend the night at the top when it gets dark. Trad climbing is mountaineering; sport climbing is posing.


bmxerjosh


Jul 5, 2002, 6:45 AM
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I like both. Not one better than the other. Trad is awesome you make it as you go, decide what you want to do, and how. I like sport because it allows you to climb at your limit taking big falls that would be as scary as s--- onto a nut, but that's just my opinion. I also like sport because it allows you to climb in areas that you wouldn't usualy be able to climb because there isn't any opportunities for natural protection. Trad vs sport wars are dumb, climbing is climbing some people like different aspects of it, and thats cool just be respectful of others. Good karma rules. Have fun and go climb.

[ This Message was edited by: bmxerjosh on 2002-07-04 23:48 ]

[ This Message was edited by: bmxerjosh on 2002-07-04 23:52 ]


ffaallliinngg


Jul 7, 2002, 6:09 AM
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I enjoy them both. About once a year I get so scared trad climbing that I swear all I'm ever going to do from now on is sport climb. That said, if I was forced to choose one or the other, it would be trad. I like the fact that you are trying to reach the top of something, rather than just an anchor that is no more than half a ropelength high. You find yourself in some incredibly unique places--hundreds or thousands of feet off the ground. No permanent defacing of the rock. Plus I love going to the store and buying gear. That part's over once you have 15 quickdraws if you're a sport climber.

[ This Message was edited by: ffaallliinngg on 2002-07-06 23:10 ]


mobius


Jul 7, 2002, 6:41 AM
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Did I already say that cams are SEXY?!?!
Matthew~


cragmasterp


Feb 5, 2003, 3:49 AM
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trad is just more glad
less flash dance ass pants
i'll take a little lichen in my eye
scratching around for a slightly better
purple TCU



Partner xcel360


Feb 5, 2003, 4:10 AM
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Bouldering!! Much more fun than being attached to a rope!


rockjunkie


Feb 5, 2003, 4:24 AM
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flash dance ass pants indeed.


vegastradguy


Feb 8, 2003, 12:40 AM
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i like climbing trad because it lets me climb mountains.

mmm...multipitch...


gawd


Feb 8, 2003, 12:46 AM
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i climb in all aspects of the sport and i like them each in their own respect. each aspect has something to offer.

people who feel the need to differentiate are the losers.



ebrmusic


Feb 8, 2003, 3:11 PM
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Its nice when you are taking people out that arent really experienced climbers because leading a 5.9 that they are comfortable on top-rope is still lots of fun for me to lead.


dingus


Feb 10, 2003, 6:08 PM
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I like sport climbing because of the immediate mental and physical demands. You can't hide from the runnout to the next bolt.

I like bouldering because of the ultimate technique performance it exacts. You can't poopoo a move you fail to execute.

I like ice climbing because of the pure stupidness of it all. It is the epitome of craziness.

I like trad climbing because all those shiny trinkets make me feel like a warrior princess!

I like aid climbing because I can't free climb worth a damn.

I like mountain climbing because of the ski back down and the joy of signing old summit registers.

I like peak bagging cause I like to shout in the wind from weird and unimportant summits. And then telling people in the Valley... "see that lump over there? No, not that one. THAT one! Yeah! I CLIMBED THAT!!!"

I like Step Mills and Versaclimbers because they help keep me strong. And for reminding me that despite all my rage I'm still just a rat in a cage.

I like tall ladders cause they scare me so.

I like climbing in trees because the swaying branches reminds me of the stomach, doing the same.

I like getting high, and then coming back down.

I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm a climber. I climb things. Each of the disciplines, each of the techniques, each of the genres, is just another tool in the arsenal of the compleat climber. You all can wax poetic about why this or that is superior. If it makes you feel better to glorify your decisions far be it from me to criticize them, cause lord knows I've done the same!

I love using the right climbing tool for the job at hand...

Sport climbing won't get me up Sacherer Cracker.

Trad climbing won't get me up Structural Disintegration.

A ladder will help me send Midnight Lightening, but that would be cheating!

Trad climbing won't see me through the 25 mile round trip hike to the summit of a remote peak (though it may help on the summit block).

Bouldering won't get me up the Zodiac.

Aid climbing won't send the Dike Route (thoug it could certainly slay it!)

The right tool for the job. And the knowledge and ability to use it. That's what I dig...

DMT


wigglestick


Feb 10, 2003, 6:16 PM
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Dingus how do you manage to perectly articulate what I am thinking, yet too stupid to put into words?

From this point on Dingus will be the offical spokesman for Wigglestick.


climbingjunky


Feb 12, 2003, 4:24 AM
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I'll have to agree with Dingus. I hate climbers dissing other people or other forms of climbing. It's you people that give climbing a bad name. Everyone has their own opinion. If you have nothing good to say, then don't say anything at all, because we're all tired of hearing the same bulls**t!! Now go climb something dammit!

[ This Message was edited by: indy on 2003-02-11 20:25 ]


kalcario


Feb 12, 2003, 5:11 AM
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there is nothing more fun in the rockclimbing world than pulling yourself up a steeply overhung wall on widely spaced positive holds

there is nothing more fulfilling in the rockclimbing world than topping out on your first wall and/or El Cap route



Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


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