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cross loading w/gri gri??
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wa_hoo


Jan 30, 2005, 3:01 AM
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cross loading w/gri gri??
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Here's a quote from the gear head forum:
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Anyone have a recommendation for the best steel biner that will fit a grigri. I'm looking to do some toprope soloing and want to have steel just in case the dreaded cross load happens. Yeah I'll be using a backup biner/knot.
So I've been lead belaying with an ATC for over a year and just starting using a grigri a couple months ago after a good lesson. I'm wondering what this dreaded cross load is so I am sure to never do it. I just hook my grigri into the locking biner onto my belay loop - I suspect there must be some alternate rigging for self-belaying (isn't that what's mentioned in the quote?).

Thanks for any help in understanding this.


jt512


Jan 30, 2005, 3:07 AM
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In reply to:
Here's a quote from the gear head forum:
In reply to:
Anyone have a recommendation for the best steel biner that will fit a grigri. I'm looking to do some toprope soloing and want to have steel just in case the dreaded cross load happens. Yeah I'll be using a backup biner/knot.
So I've been lead belaying with an ATC for over a year and just starting using a grigri a couple months ago after a good lesson. I'm wondering what this dreaded cross load is so I am sure to never do it. I just hook my grigri into the locking biner onto my belay loop - I suspect there must be some alternate rigging for self-belaying (isn't that what's mentioned in the quote?).

Thanks for any help in understanding this.

Well, you never want to cross-load a biner. If you find that your belay biner has rotated so that it would be crossloaded if your partner fell, then rotate it back into position. Clipping the belay biner into your harness's belay loop (as opposed to its tie-in points) may help prevent cross-loading. Specific to the grigri: I find that clipping the grigri onto the small end of the belay biner prevents almost all rotation of the belay biner.

-Jay


wa_hoo


Jan 30, 2005, 3:14 AM
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Re: cross loading w/gri gri?? [In reply to]
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Jay - seems I can always count on you for an educated response. I've been locking the grigri onto the larger end of the biner -I'll try it the other way. It does wiggle around more with it this way, but a well respected, experienced climber/setter at the gym recommended it. When I use an ATC I lock the biner into both the loops the belay loop comes from to position it better. I assumed the locking part would take of the rest, but you are wise to suggest always considering cross loading.

So it seems you're implying the rigging of the self-belaying with the grigri isn't what the original quote was about - just general cross loading issues?


jt512


Jan 30, 2005, 3:28 AM
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In reply to:
When I use an ATC I lock the biner into both the loops the belay loop comes from to position it better.

I don't know why you think the ATC is positioned better when the belay biner is connected to the tie-in points of the harness than it is when it is attached to the belay loop. I think that attaching the belay device to the tie-in points is a bad habit to get into, for two reasons: one, it causes your rope to get twisted and kinked when you lower your partner, and two, it may increase the chances of crossloading.

In reply to:
I assumed the locking part would take of the rest, but you are wise to suggest always considering cross loading.

Locking biners are no stronger than non-locking biners in any orientation, including the crossloaded orientation. Take a look at the ratings stamped on your biners.

In reply to:
So it seems you're implying the rigging of the self-belaying with the grigri isn't what the original quote was about - just general cross loading issues?

I don't know why someone would TR solo in the first place, much less do so if he were so worried about crossloading his self-belay carabiner that he would insist on using a steel biner (and the "best" steel biner, no less).

-Jay


wa_hoo


Jan 31, 2005, 2:02 AM
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I was hooking the ATC in that way because then the rope runs more horizontally (which is making me wonder if that's what's causing the twisting) so my brake hand is in a better spot - or so it seemed. I'll try that running through the tie in points and see how it goes. I had been experiencing twisting of the rope.

And while I have been reading about the load limits on biners for draws (I'll be purchasing my first set this spring), I hadn't done so on locking ones and hadn't considered the cross-loading on those before.

I humbly consider myself quite the beginner even though I'm happy with all I can do and have learned. Thanks again for all the info. I continue to be amazed how much there is to learn and be aware of - stuff you'd never even guess unless you climbed with really experienced people for quite awhile.


wa_hoo


Feb 2, 2005, 7:00 PM
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So I tried using the grigri with the small end of the biner facing away from me, and to be honest, the device jerked around awkwardly. It seems more likely to get caught in a way to cross-load. It stayed one the long axis much better with the large end of the biner facing away.


mike_gibson


Feb 2, 2005, 7:51 PM
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I have read previous advice about wrapping rubber bands (or something similar) around the biner to keep the grigri from moving but I havent yet figured out a reasonable way to do this that isnt a major hassle.

Any suggestions from anyone else on how to tie up the grigri so it wont slip on the biner?


jt512


Feb 2, 2005, 8:22 PM
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In reply to:
So I tried using the grigri with the small end of the biner facing away from me, and to be honest, the device jerked around awkwardly. It seems more likely to get caught in a way to cross-load. It stayed one the long axis much better with the large end of the biner facing away.

I assume that you're using the belay loop, not the tie-in points. If you're using the tie-in points all bets are off.

Maybe it is your choice of carabiner. I like the Petzl Atache. If you want to put an end to the cross-loading issue for good, put your grigri on a DMM(?) Belay Master.

-Jay


saxfiend


Feb 2, 2005, 8:55 PM
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In reply to:
If you want to put an end to the cross-loading issue for good, put your grigri on a DMM(?) Belay Master.

-Jay

I second that. I use the Belay Master with grigri and never have any problems. I don't see how you could get this biner to cross-load.

JL


wa_hoo


Feb 5, 2005, 2:37 AM
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Okay - so I'm using the Petzl Atache (off the belay loop) - and it seems fine with the small end toward me. I don't really notice crossloading ever happening while in the gym (I'v eonly been outside 6 times).

I checked out the DMM site & it had a good picture of the Belay Master in use and it would definitly prevent any problems. Here's what I want to know - there is so much amazing gear out there - where would you put this on your priority list? I have never seen one used (which doesn't mean much - I've only been outside with 4 different groups).

It's not hugely expensive ($20), but is it prudent (like a helmet), fluffy but nice, or really something everyone should have that uses a grigri? I'd appreciate some perspective here. Thanks


jt512


Feb 5, 2005, 2:55 AM
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In reply to:
Okay - so I'm using the Petzl Attache - and it seems fine with the small end toward me. I don't really notice crossloading ever happening while in the gym (I'v eonly been outside 6 times).

I checked out the DMM site & it had a good picture of the Belay Master in use and it would definitly prevent any problems. Here's what I want to know - there is so much amazing gear out there - where would you put this on your priority list? I have never seen one used (which doesn't mean much - I've only been outside with 4 different groups).

It's not hugely expensive ($20), but is it prudent (like a helmet), fluffy but nice, or really something everyone should have that uses a grigri? I'd appreciate some perspective here. Thanks

The Belay Master really is a good belay carabiner. One of it's best features is that you can't close the swing gate unless the biner is locked, which makes it all but impossible to forget to lock the biner. You ask how much of a priority should it be to get one. Well, most climbers don't own one, so I guess it needn't be a high priority; nonetheless, it is a good product.

-Jay


glanzer77


Feb 9, 2005, 6:32 PM
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I use a Petzl Attche, Gri2, in a Petzl Caldera harness and have self belayed several top rope situations and have never run into anything that would make me fee sketchy about the integrity of the Biner or Gri Gri for that matter...also I run the biner through the loop...you should be fine. Or as the Indigo Girls said "Closer to Fine"


sandstone


Feb 9, 2005, 10:31 PM
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A screw link is far superior to a biner for this particular application. There's no gate, so there's no gate cross loading problem. You get 10kN strength regardless of orientation (25kN along the major axis).

In reply to:
...I don't know why someone would TR solo in the first place, much less do so if he were so worried about crossloading his self-belay carabiner...

Solo TR allows me to work on a route when my partners aren't available. It's not for everybody, but it's certainly a good skill to have. Worrying about crossloading biners is also a good skill to have.


ryan112ryan


Feb 9, 2005, 11:44 PM
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question about biner and the grigri. i have heard (or so it seems) alot of people who use a steel biner with a grigri. is there some safety concern with the type of biner or can i use any old locking biner?


jt512


Feb 10, 2005, 12:06 AM
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In reply to:
question about beiners and the grigri. i have heard (or so it seems) alot of people who use a steel beiner with a grigri. is there some safety concern with the type of beinar or can i use any old locking beinar?

You can use any type of biner you can spell, which for you, means none.

-Jay


sandstone


Feb 10, 2005, 1:01 AM
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In reply to:
question about beiners and the grigri. i have heard (or so it seems) alot of people who use a steel beiner with a grigri. is there some safety concern with the type of beinar or can i use any old locking beinar?

For normal belaying a regular aluminum locker should be fine.

When using a Gri-Gri for a solo belay (TR or otherwise), there's a greater chance of the Gri-Gri (or other device) getting jostled into a position where it will cross load the biner. That's because you're climbing and knocking the thing around, and not holding it in a controlled orientation as with normal belaying. For that reason it's a good idea to very carefully consider how you attach the Gri-Gri to yourself for soloing.

Some people use duct tape to keep the Gri-Gri in place, others use specialized biners with plastic thingys. To me that's nuts -- I want more than tape or a bit of plastic to insure that my belay is good.

The root problem is that a cross loaded biner gate is not strong enough to hold a fall. Get rid of the gate problem by getting rid of the gate -- use a screw link instead of a biner for soloing.


wa_hoo


Feb 10, 2005, 2:36 AM
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So I think you've finally cleared it all up in my head - the idea here is not that grigri's frequently get cross-loaded when belaying (although this could happen) if you're set up in the belay loop with a good locking biner, it's that if you self-belay with one, the rigging results in more frequent cross loading. Aha. Thanks


sandstone


Feb 10, 2005, 4:18 AM
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In reply to:
So I think you've finally cleared it all up in my head - the idea here is not that grigri's frequently get cross-loaded when belaying (although this could happen) if you're set up in the belay loop with a good locking biner, it's that if you self-belay with one, the rigging results in more frequent cross loading. Aha. Thanks

Glad I could help, but don't trust anything you read on the net. :wink:

Do a search, somewhere on here there's a post by someone who was self belaying with a Gri-Gri, who broke his biner in a fall (the biner that attached his Gri-Gri to his harness). I don't think it was a gate failure either, as I remember it he broke the spine of the biner, and it was a fat "belay" biner(?). Thankfully he had tied into a backup knot and he was OK.


jimdavis


Feb 10, 2005, 5:03 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
So I think you've finally cleared it all up in my head - the idea here is not that grigri's frequently get cross-loaded when belaying (although this could happen) if you're set up in the belay loop with a good locking biner, it's that if you self-belay with one, the rigging results in more frequent cross loading. Aha. Thanks

Glad I could help, but don't trust anything you read on the net. :wink:

Do a search, somewhere on here there's a post by someone who was self belaying with a Gri-Gri, who broke his biner in a fall (the biner that attached his Gri-Gri to his harness). I don't think it was a gate failure either, as I remember it he broke the spine of the biner, and it was a fat "belay" biner(?). Thankfully he had tied into a backup knot and he was OK.

You've got to be joking.

You really can't break the spine of a biner unless your trying to use it like a lever in a crack. The gate will always go first, and on TR, I don't even think it's possible to generate enough force to break the things crossloaded.

I'd like to see some pics on that one.

Jim


sandstone


Feb 14, 2005, 6:46 PM
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In reply to:
Do a search, somewhere on here there's a post by someone who was self belaying with a Gri-Gri, who broke his biner in a fall (the biner that attached his Gri-Gri to his harness). I don't think it was a gate failure either, as I remember it he broke the spine of the biner, and it was a fat "belay" biner(?). Thankfully he had tied into a backup knot and he was OK.

In reply to:
You've got to be joking. You really can't break the spine of a biner unless your trying to use it like a lever in a crack. The gate will always go first, and on TR, I don't even think it's possible to generate enough force to break the things crossloaded. I'd like to see some pics on that one.

No joke. I don't remember if he posted photos or not. It wasn't a top rope situation (I should've said that in my previous post). I remember it as being a lead fall, by a solo aid climber.

I did a quick search and I couldn't find the post. I can't remember any of the specific wording, and searches for things like broken biner grigri return over 5,000 matches -- more than I have time to sift through. Maybe someone else can post a link if they remember the article and have a link to it. I AM losing my mind, but I definately remember reading that post :-)


altelis


Feb 14, 2005, 7:18 PM
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1) cross loading is a problem with any biner/belay device combo, not specific to gri-gri's
2) you should not be belaying off the tie-in points on the harness-they manufacture harnesses with BELAY loops for a reason, namely to belay off of. there are two problems with belaying off the tie in points. the first, and potentially most harmful, is that you then TRI-LOAD your biner. slight as it may be in an ideal situation you are still tri-loading it, and in non ideal situations, like with biners with a narrow end, you can tri-load it to a dangerous degree, especially if you are catching a big whipper. secondly, the belay loop was designed specifically after tube style devices came out, because you can feed/catch tube devices better when they are aligned vertically (off the belay loop) instead of horizontally (off the tie in loop). feeding is smoother and so is lowering and you don't kink the rope. use the belay loop and just watch for cross-loading


imnotclever


Feb 14, 2005, 7:21 PM
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Tom's story if you are unfimalliar Go to page 2. mrhardgrit is Tom


In reply to:
If you play with the GriGri on the spine of the belay master it is very easy to get the GriGri to torque itself against the biner, this could result in breaking the biner or the GriGri. I don’t know if this is what happened to Tom or if his was simply cross loaded.

I use it with the GriGri through the narrow end of the belay master. Doing this requires that you remove the plastic piece to get the GriGri to the narrow end, and then replace the plastic piece.

This way there is very little room for the GriGri to move on the biner. There is a lot of room for movement at the belay loop end of the biner, but this doesn’t matter because the pull on the GriGri will always put the belay loop where it needs to be, avoiding cross loading. Torque on the biner and GriGri is also avoided because there is no way for the GriGri to get around the bend of the biner.


altelis


Feb 14, 2005, 7:26 PM
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SANDSTONE- you need to do some research. using a screw link gets you absolutely nothing over using a biner except for more work. first, the max load is 25kn on the major axis and 10kn on the minor-SO CROSS LOADING IS STILL A PROBLEM. they are not meant to be loaded on their long sides. the generall geometry and make of a screw link and carabiner are no different-they are both oblong with a hole in the long axis. also petzl recomends tossing a screw link if its used to catch a fall! what company recomends getting rid of a biner once it catches a fall. a screw link is meant to be used to lower off of bolts, etc., not to catch a fall. RESEARCH YOUR GEAR BEFORE YOU RECOMEND OTHERS TO USE THEM IN UNSAFE PRACTICES NOT ORIGINALLY INTENTED BY THE MANUFACTURER


sandstone


Feb 14, 2005, 11:52 PM
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In reply to:
SANDSTONE- you need to do some research. using a screw link gets you absolutely nothing over using a biner except for more work. first, the max load is 25kn on the major axis and 10kn on the minor-SO CROSS LOADING IS STILL A PROBLEM.

Yeah, I know about the published ratings being the same.

Maybe what I should have said is "given a choice between a fall on a cross loaded aluminum biner gate, or on a steel screw link, I'll choose the steel screw link every single time." No doubt about it in my mind.

In reply to:
RESEARCH YOUR GEAR BEFORE YOU RECOMEND OTHERS TO USE THEM IN UNSAFE PRACTICES NOT ORIGINALLY INTENTED BY THE MANUFACTURER

As a general rule, that's very good advice.

Am I being irresponsible saying I think a steel screw link is stronger than a cross loaded aluminum biner gate? I don't think so. Is that an opinion based on personal experience and common sense? You betcha.

Thanks imnotclever for sharing the link to Tom's post about the locking biner that broke in his fall. I posted earlier that I thought the biner spine had broken, but re-reading the thread I see that he wasn't able to determine how it failed. Oh well, I didn't remember every detail of a post made in 2002...

For soloing, I'll continue to use a steel screw link to attach my belay device to my harness.


niftydog


Feb 15, 2005, 5:16 AM
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In reply to:
petzl recomends tossing a screw link if its used to catch a fall! what company recomends getting rid of a biner once it catches a fall?

Um, Petzl, actually!

In reply to:
Do not continue to use this product after a major fall.

In reply to:
Do not use this product after a major fall or a major impact.

In reply to:
the max load is 25kn on the major axis and 10kn on the minor-SO CROSS LOADING IS STILL A PROBLEM.

However, I doubt the x-load rating for a krab is taken with the load on the gate - more likely it's measured from spine to nose. Obviously, the inherent weakness of the krabs gate is not a factor in a screwlink, meaning that 10kN rating, while exactly the same as a krab, is probably safer due to the absence of a gate on a screwlink.

In reply to:
RESEARCH YOUR GEAR BEFORE YOU RECOMEND OTHERS TO USE THEM IN UNSAFE PRACTICES NOT ORIGINALLY INTENTED BY THE MANUFACTURER

Anyone taking advice from complete strangers via the internet as gospel needs their head read. It's just one of those unwritten rules here; take everything into consideration before acting on ANY advice.

Then there's the mantra I live my life by; ...but first, read the instructions!

Peace! :D

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