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-mountain-goat-
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Apr 30, 2005, 2:06 AM
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I've never used a forged friend before, and I've always thought that they would be a waist of my time. Until I was talking to and older climbing buddy who claimed that they where better than flexible cams, especially in horizontals, which is exactly opposite of what most people say. He explains it like this: A fall on a flexible stem cam put in a sharp horizontal crack can kink the cable, a cause for you to have to replace it, but if you use a forged friend and clip into a tied loop nearest the lobes you have a "TRUE FLEXIBLE STEM" that can also be replaced for much cheaper. If tied off correctly there should be no tension on the stem, and the cam is much lighter, and cheaper, and they last much longer. Why not sell all your camalots and buy forged friends! What do you guys think?
~Russ
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goober
Apr 30, 2005, 2:33 AM
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Rigid stem Friends do work well in those situations, particularily in very shallow horizontals. However the Camelots are still superior for the irregular/crystalized cracks found here in NC. Because of their expansion range they are more capable of adapting to the flared and otherwise funky crack placements. Plus the new camelots are as light as Friends.
I carry an assortment of both for those Linville Gorge horizontal fests. :righton:
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catbird_seat
Apr 30, 2005, 4:29 AM
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The Camalot C4 costs twice as much as a Forged Friend. Is it really worth it? Maybe it's smart to carry one set of C4s and a second set of Forged Friends. Use each where they work best.
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tradklime
Apr 30, 2005, 4:41 AM
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Depends on who you talk to. Read the thread regarding broken rigid stems for more info related to your question.
For those looking for a good performing, light weigth, inexpensive cam, the current closeout deals on the DMM's can't be beat, in my opinion. Friggin' great cam at that price (<$40).
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