To the editors of Climbing mag,

In the last few issues, Climbing's editors have downgraded some of the hardest routes in the world in articles about a female climbing those routes. In your September 2005 issue, Dave Schmidt claims in a news piece on Josune Bereziartu's recent send of Bimbaluna (5.14d/5.15a) that: "Consensus among elite climbers is that Bain de Sain and Logical Progression (Dai Koyamada's 5.14d, repeated by Bereziartu Fall 2004) are likely 8c+ or even 8c."

Why then did you give Bereziartu the Golden Piton Award for repeating Bain de Sang in the March 2003 issue with the commentary that: "after five repeats (the most of any route given 5.14d) it is regarded as extremely solid for the grade?"

And why, in your April 2005 issue, do you qualify a report on Bereziartu's send of Logical Progression (5.14d), with the note: ". local sources tell us that after previous repeats the route has been downgraded to 8c+ (5.14c)."

How is it that in just a few months a "consensus" of "elite" climbers has suddenly downgraded both these routes from 5.14d to 5.14c to "even" 5.14b? Did this "consensus," include Fred Nicole, Iker Pou or Dave Graham - the people who repeated Bain de Sang? Did you actually speak with any "local" Japanese climbers who have repeated Logical Progression? Not likely since it seems that only Bereziartu and strongman Dai Koyamada have done it.

Why not include the names of the "elite" climbers who agreed to downgrade these routes? At least it would give you an inkling of credibility for publicly downgrading some of the hardest routes in the world done by a woman. Will you also downgrade Flex Luthor and Flat Mountain when a woman
climbs them?
Lizzy Scully

Lizzy -
The Logical Progression grade came from Vera and Topher, after their visit to Japan, and the Swiss routes from the best info we could gather.

The upper grades across the board are under constant revision, seem to be very body-specific, take a while to get enough ascents (5? 10 or more?) to really get "consensus," etc., etc. Tommy's route will probably be downrated if a European climbs it, regardless of gender.

Those upper numbers are only the vaguest indications of what's really going on. An ascent of Bain de Sang in 1993 was Golden Piton worthy regardless of that famous route's exact grade. Josune is one of the best sport climbers in the world. Sorry if you thought we implied otherwise.
- Jeff

Jeff, I discussed this issue with a half-dozen editors from various magazines, and all think it is a relevant question. In numerous comparable news pieces you do not qualify the ascents by male climbers, which is one of the main reasons I sent this letter to you, although you do in a few. Did Vera & Topher climb Logical Progression? I was not aware that either if them could climb 5.14d. How would they know what grade to give it?

By the way, Jeff, you don't have to apologize. It's not something I take personally. I'm simply pointing out a very non-egalitarian practice that I have noticed in your mag and that is prevalent in the outdoor industry. My job is to keep y'all on your toes. :)

Will you be publishing the letter? If not, I'll mail it to everyone I know and put it on a few chat rooms for discussion. I think the issue warrants a healthy discussion within the community. Perhaps I am completely and totally off base, but I would be interested in hearing the perspective of others, especially some of the women who have had routes downgraded after they've climbed them.
Lizzy

She Sends Chief Editor, in response to Achey's note"]
Interesting.

Hmm...is "very body-specific" code for - she can do it cuz she's got small fingers?

Have Vera and Topher climbed the route?

OK, so if the routes are constantly under revision why is the point highlighted not just once but TWICE when it's a female climber doing the routes? Why didn't the mention this when a guy repeated them (in some cases I recognize there hasn't been) or if Vera and Topher's opinion is
newsworthy, when they first made their observation. Maybe the point isn't that the routes are being downgraded, but the placement of that information - next to a news brief about a female climbers repeats.

Man, it's a minefield out there! When I said body specific I was thinking about Dai Koyamada's mono boulder problems vs Fred Rouhling, and JP Finne's quick success on Get Shorty at Rifle. Not a gender issue!!

Vera of course did not climb Logical Progression, but rather gave us the "word on the street." I don't know if she had an anti-female agenda. She did write that rant about women speed climbing ...

But anyway, yes, I'll run the letter, and I agree that it's a great topic of discussion. Yours and my favorite, right?!

Other food for thought, re sexism (you can send this to your fellow female editor also): why didn't we report on the FA of this "5.15" route near Bain de Sang, but then make a big deal (downratings notwithstanding) about Josune's mere repeat? Why did we report Josune's repeat of Logical Progression, but not the two previous Japanese repeats? Maybe we're anti-Asian?

Jeff, I'm the other "female editor," and I appreciate your feedback - it definitely helps clarify some of my questions from my first e-mail. I suppose I can understand that you feel a man under attack, but you shouldn't. I think Lizzy has simply raised some good questions, and I
think it's good idea to address those questions. I'm curious as to whether or not other people perceive the same differences in reporting of if it's just us?


Well, of course it's a minefield. :) When we're already talking about gender issues, one can't help but make a connection between "body-specific" and women's small fingers or say, flexibility because it's a sentiment that echoes off many crags and gyms walls already. I'm glad Jeff clarified, though.


I think this is kind of re-directing the focus of the discussion to be honest. I don't think Climbing mag is anti-woman any more than it's anti-Asian. I just think the subtle difference in text attached to the news reports like the one about Josune merits discussion. No one is screaming YOU'RE ANTI-WOMAN at all - I think Lizzy's letter merely asks some worthy questions that might stimulate an important discussion.

(usually in hot flashes or something)

Just another example of a derogatory female reference in a climbing magazine.

-Jay