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uasunflower
Jul 26, 2005, 7:19 PM
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i'm going to Chamonix in over a week for the first time and am gathering information on worthwhile routes to do. We will be staying in Couvercle hut near Aguille Verte, so we were looking at some snow routes (whymper couloir, Courtes traverse) as well as rock (up Aguille du Moine, or les Drus, up to 5.9 or 6 UIAA). Any specific route recommendation up the Drus (not higher than TD level) or anything else in that hut's vicinity? Any other last-minute advice would be appreciated!
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montaniero
Jul 26, 2005, 11:21 PM
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You can forget about the whymper couloir in the summer: it's usually out of shape from early july till november, and this year is no exception. Dry as a raisin. From the Couvercle, the nearest route up the Verte is the Moine Ridge (AD, III). Lacking the classic status of the Whymper, it's a little longer but the perfect rock route up the Verte for this type of dry hot summers. For routes up the Verte's north face, you need to check the Cahier du Course at the Office du Haute Montagne du Chamonix website for the current conditions or send them an e-mail. Usually in summer these are in better shape than the Drus.
For the Drus, same thing, check the OHM but I believe most routes up the Petit Dru are out of question as a big chunk of the mountain fell off a couple of weeks ago. Best time to climb the Petit Dru classics (American Direct, Bonatti Pillar, etc.) is winter or early spring, when the permafrost keeps the rock in place. See you around there in a couple of weeks.
P.S.: I liked your quote ;)
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uasunflower
Jul 27, 2005, 7:36 PM
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thanks, i like your sig too :D
maybe thinking traverse of the Courtes - looks in good condition this year, maybe South Pillar up the grand dru...
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montaniero
Jul 28, 2005, 1:37 PM
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Something I forgot to tell you is that, once you are there go and check in person the Office du Haute Montagne on the 2nd floor of the Maison de la Montagne at the Place de l'Eglise. This would be advisable as in some routes, conditions might change fairly quickly and even if you got good beta from their website now, it might have changed by the time you arrived, specially for couloirs and mostly rock routes.
A good place to get route beta is the two guides published by the (British) Alpine Club: Mont Blanc Volume I and II. The II contains most of the routes up the Verte, Drus, Courtes and Droites.
For the South Pillar of the Grand Dru you might want to start from the Charpoua Hut, instead of the Couvercle, as the approach is shorter. Let's pray for good weather this summer...
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chip
Jul 28, 2005, 8:44 PM
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Excellent online beta here:
http://alpinisme.camptocamp.com
(Click "Topo-Guide", top left).
Montaniero, you need to stop praying and get out there! Excellent weather this week. (Climbing the stairs hurts me today :)).
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uasunflower
Jul 29, 2005, 11:04 AM
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a question about charpoua hut - do i reserve it or can we just come there for one night when we decide to do the drus from the couvercle hut? How far of an approach are the dru from the couvercle hut?
praying for the weather...
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montaniero
Aug 2, 2005, 2:05 AM
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The only two huts you DEFINITELY need to reserve in the Alps during the summer are the Gouter in the normal route up MB and the Hornli in Matterhorn. The rest have lots of available space (maybe except for the Cosmiques). No need to reserve the Charpoua nor the Couvercle, although it might be a good idea to call them to check on the current route beta, and then you can let them know you are on the way.
All routes up the Dru are closer from the Charpoua. Really worth it to spend the night there if you are doing routes up the Drus, as all of its routes are long and the approach from the Covercle is only a waste of daylight. BE CAREFUL: The Drus are falling appart! A big chink of the Bonatti Pillar was gone some weeks ago.
If you are still in Chamonix the second half of August and still fancy the Verte via the Moine ridge, let me know so we can hook up and climb it together. Best of luck, Nando.
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adnix
Aug 16, 2005, 12:25 PM
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In reply to: The only two huts you DEFINITELY need to reserve in the Alps during the summer are the Gouter in the normal route up MB and the Hornli in Matterhorn. The rest have lots of available space (maybe except for the Cosmiques).
Charpoua hut accommondates something like 10 people but I'd doubt it being full. The rock routes up there are committing old school climbing with big cracks, hard approaches and all other shit. And the walk-in... well... it's a long way uphill.
Couvercle hut accommondates about 150 people. There should be room for sure. But as said before, it's not a good place to start an ascent of Drus. For Verte it's one of the best places if you plan to do the Moine Ridge or Whymper.
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