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philbox
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Aug 14, 2002, 4:11 AM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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Walks in to waiting room without making appointment, "nurse, nurse, is Doctor Offwidth in today".
Sits down to wait, picks up 1965 Readers Digest and begins to wait as one does when one ever visits the quack.
Whilst reading the jokes at the bottom of 23 I begin to mull over what brought me to this waiting room.
Matt sandbagged me into climbing Juggernaut a 35 metre fearsome offwidth at Frog Buttress in South East Queensland last weekend.
I`ve been working my way through the various crack sizes at Frog and this particular offwidth is one of the few remaining that I haven`t done.
I despatched the whole climb bar the top 4 metres and I was stuck. Can you believe it here I was 4 metres from the top and the offwidth is as smooth as a babys bottom.
Too narrow to chicken wing, no features or rugosities on the outside from which my feet can gain purchase. Just that little too wide to go fists stacked across and even if I could what am I gunna do when I eke that little bit of height out of the crack, I fear that all I will do is slide down to my starting point.
Oh woe is me. So here I sit and await my visit to any who might help a sick and twisted fool who wants to return and send that offwidth from hell. HELP.
...Phil...
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pbjosh
Aug 14, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Depending on how steep it is here's one method for "too big for knees too small for chicken wings (the start of squeezes really)"
that I've used. I'm not offwidth master but I've gotten up routes up to 10b with this:
Pick a side to go "in" even though it's not big enough to chimney. Put your arm in and armbar. Gaston the other edge of the crack. Foot stack or legbar and footstack simultaneously. Moving up is kind of a thrutching process of leaning over on the gaston, camming the leg bar hard and moving the arm bar up. It's really strenuous to boot
One other thing I've contemplated but never done is elbow stacks - kind of a contortionist combination of two armbars for a rest and then shuffling them up (top then bottom arm) to move. Again combine with foot stacks and leg bars (leg bar is camming your foot and hip on one side and knee on the other, requires a point of leverage with your upper body to maintain as well and is very strenuous.
Anyways, I'm learning too and am interested in hearing what others have to say...
josh
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mountainmonkey
Aug 14, 2002, 3:05 PM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
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I am confused. How is the crack "too narrow to chicken wing" and "too wide to go fists stacked across". If it is too wide to stack two fists across, then it should be wide enough to start wiggling some of your body in it, be it chicken wings or arm bars. Just remember that if you stack hands/fists, you must be able to lock your legs in the crack to and use "leavittation" to get up. Please clarify the size and other aspects of the gaping maw.
casey bernal
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philbox
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Aug 15, 2002, 12:42 AM
Post #4 of 5
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I`ve done some measurements on the estimated width of the offwidth maw. It`s about 7.5 to 8 inches wide. An added dimension to this crack is that one side sticks out about nine inches, the side which doesn`t stick out is not sharp, sort of like a vertical sloper. Pretty much everything is quite smooth with no divets to gain any significant purchase on so really it`s a technique thang I guess. I`m just gunna hafta go back there and work it into submission. Nasty crack.
...Phil...
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krustyklimber
Aug 15, 2002, 1:34 AM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
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Screw it! Aid the thing is always the first thought that dribbles into my old mind.
Sounds wide enough to get my butt (bum to you Phil) in and arm bar/chicken wing... bum against the side that sticks out more and trying to chimney thrutch my way up it, outside hand stemming to keep you from popping out.
I can't believe I used to love offwidths, I'm too old for that kind of wrestling match anymore!
Best of luck to you... No, it's "good on ya, Mate!"
Jeff
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