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kane_schutzman
May 3, 2006, 8:28 PM
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Well, I live in Louisiana so its not like I get too high :lol:
What should I do? I have been running 5 miles a day for the past week.
Should I up the number?
Should I swim instead of running?
I have many questions regarding this subject...let me know what your training routine is.
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ninja_climber
May 3, 2006, 8:35 PM
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Where do you live in LA?
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ninja_climber
May 3, 2006, 8:36 PM
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Where do you live in LA?
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kane_schutzman
May 3, 2006, 8:37 PM
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Ruston, like 5 mins from louisiana Tech
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kane_schutzman
May 3, 2006, 8:38 PM
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Ruston, like 5 mins from louisiana Tech
30 min from Monroe
1 Hour from shreveport
4 from New Orleans
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flowerchild
May 3, 2006, 8:38 PM
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Here's some stuff I do....
- Run almost everyday for a half hour or so
- Core excerises (squats, leg lifts)
- Opposition excercises (triceps, pecs)
- Forearm exercises, wrist curls
- Stretching/Yoga
- Fingerboard training (finger hangs, frenchies, weighted pull ups)
- Build a home training wall!! Then there is lots of training to do on that.
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kane_schutzman
May 3, 2006, 8:44 PM
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Well here is the thing,
The place I work out closes at 7, I dont have the time to make the usual trip before then....So I am really stuck at home and do not have a any machines here...Just a bench and maybe 150 lbs....
I know I should run and swim everyday and I will continue too do that...
Will training in such a low elevation hurt me when I go to say 7000m?
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ninja_climber
May 3, 2006, 8:49 PM
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LSU has a wall and so does Southeastern. If want to go to good gym you can make the trip to either Lafayette(Rok Hause) or Slidell(Slidell Rocks)
. Those to gyms are the best in LA. Slidell is 40ft and much bigger than Rok Hause but Rok Hause has better bouldering. I prefer Slidell Rocks,but then again I worked there...
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kane_schutzman
May 3, 2006, 8:53 PM
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Really?
I didnt know that these gyms were here lol.
Do you have a website for the one in slidell?
Are you from Louisiana?
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aikimac
May 5, 2006, 7:13 PM
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Where are you headed to climb? Are you looking at long endurance climbs such as Disappointment Cleaver or more technical stuff?
IMHO running everyday is over kill and can end up doing more harm than good, four times a week is usually good. Biking is supposed to be excellent (though I do little of it myself) you can get several hours of aerobic endurance training without the impact of running. Mix up the distance training with intervals, sprint full out so you fail completely after 30 seconds. rest to recovery (a couple minutes) and go again, maybe 8 times. It hurts (if your doing it right!) but recent studies have shown it can increase your cardio endurance as much as 50% in two weeks!
Lots of squats and or leg presses, lots more calf raises!
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kane_schutzman
May 5, 2006, 7:25 PM
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I have actually been taking a break for the past 2 days to get my legs and calves to heal.....I ran 5 miles 5 days in a row and could barely walk....I dont run on the concrete much but I still feel the beating.....
I am going to swim as much as I can now, its so much less painfull....To answer your other question, I am trying to get in shape for Denali, and maybe Rainer.....
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aikimac
May 5, 2006, 7:28 PM
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Oh, now I see!
This was in reference to the K2 thread...
Start with the Cascades, the Karakoram are years away!
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aikimac
May 5, 2006, 7:41 PM
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You'll definitely wanna do Rainier a couple time (at least) before Denali. Some winter trips to Mt. Washington NH wouldn't hurt either (could be cheaper than going out west?) And you can get a good taste of nasty winter conditions!
You have to take it slow starting any training, which I'm sure you realise now after your 5- 5 mile days!
You can't worry too much about the altitude, not much we flat landers can do about it. On Rainier you just go for it and suffer some (maybe) Denali & higher just plan to spend time up there acclimatizing
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anykineclimb
May 8, 2006, 5:21 AM
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The running you're doing is great as a base (although it sounds liek you're not resting enough..) You need to start traininh with a pack too.
Do some long hikes/ walks with a loaded pack. Playground sand or kitty litter makes great, cheap weight. You can also get some 5 gallon collapsable water jugs from Walmart to load with water and vary the weight. IF you have hills in your area do those with the pack or use stairwells in buildings or stadiums.
A good site for general fitness with littel to no equipment is
http:www.trainforstrength.com
Theres a good exercises page there.
Also on the AAI site, theres a good 6 month training plan
http://www.alpineascents.com/training.asp
If you really want to step it up, check out
http://Crossfit.com
http://gymjones.com
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dontmaytagme
Jun 7, 2006, 5:05 AM
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This is akin to what suicide experts would do for training.. but.. hell. I am still here! :)
Get a painters mask.. the kind that would allow you to limit fumes. Soak it in water. Wear that.. while you exercise.. that would let your body react to lower oxygen levels than what it is used to.
Hell... and i would have to stand on a friggin' porch. I think I know how to torture myself to get what I want.. .) [gym jones dot com]
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sawtooth_ridge
Jun 7, 2006, 5:31 AM
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I never stop doing pullups. And, you should be doing them with a pack full of gear if you can manage that.....If you have a fingerboard, use it....
Also, if you're doing mountaineering, you'll need to build your lower body more than anything.......and running, although great, isn't developing that kind of muscle as well as you might want.....
So, if you've got access to any sort of large stadium (some university track stadiums are "open" all the time), or even a high rise building in a pinch, start running sets of bleachers or stairs, preferably with a weighted pack.
The more weight, and the longer you do it, the burlier you get! Find a sensible regimen and slowly increase as you strengthen.
Or, better yet, drive to your nearest hill with a decent grade, preferably natural hillside, and repeatedly tromp up it with a pack. You'll enjoy exploring the hill....... :)
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chrisb
Jun 20, 2006, 4:31 PM
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I've found the stairclimber to be a huge help, especially given not-so-easy access to trails without a car. I use the one with the rotating steps instead of the foot pedals. Twice a week is endurance (45-1hr); twice a week speed intervals (30 min--you should be pretty burnt by the end). Start with 10-15 lbs in a pack (kitty litter is great) and add 5 lbs every two weeks until you're doing 10 lbs over your trip weight pretty easily.
As mentioned before, core strength is really important: leg lifts (best), crunches, etc. Do them extremely slow and controlled and you'll have a much better workout than those monkeys who use momentum. Medicine balls are great for obliques/intercoastals. Don't forget about your lower back--hyperextensions and supermans (lay facedown on a mat/pad, arms extended forward, then contract your back to elevate arms/legs/torso so you're basically balancing on waist/stomach as much as possible. Don't forget to breathe).
Stretch, stretch, stretch, and then stretch some more but do it correctly. I pretty much screwed my legs by not doing so and pulling lots of stuff out of alignment. The more you train, the more you must stretch.
This is baseline fitness stuff--if I'm preparing for a trip, I'll try to tailor it as much as possible. At the very least, try to get outside, hiking on varied terrain once per month. Track your distance/elevation. This will give you a good read on how you're doing/what to work on. Running or even stairclimbing endlessly does little to help the stabilizing muscles you'll use on a trip.
Or you could just move to Jackson Hole and alleviate the whole problem altogether.
cb
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adnix
Jun 20, 2006, 5:25 PM
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In reply to: What should I do? I have been running 5 miles a day for the past week. |
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paulraphael
Jun 26, 2006, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: I've found the stairclimber to be a huge help, especially given not-so-easy access to trails without a car. I use the one with the rotating steps instead of the foot pedals. Twice a week is endurance (45-1hr); twice a week speed intervals (30 min--you should be pretty burnt by the end). Start with 10-15 lbs in a pack (kitty litter is great) and add 5 lbs every two weeks until you're doing 10 lbs over your trip weight pretty easily.
This is excellent advice (from another brooklynite). Running is nice, but running on flat ground uses your muscles in a completely different way from climbing up a hill. The stair climber (stepmill) that chrisb describes is very good. So is cycling ... this used to be my sole cardio work, and it simulates going up a steep hill pretty well.
My favorite now is a regular treadmill with variable incline. I found that the stepmill actually simulates much steeper hill climbing than what I do for the bulk of most approaches. The treadmill lets you vary the angle anywhere from flat (warmup and cooldown) to 30 degrees (steep!) with most work done somewhere in the middle.
I alternate this with cycling, weight training, the climbing gym, and actual climbing when i get a chance.
The advice to do interval training is key. After getting a solid endurance base, spend one or two days a week doing this. It will rapidly increase the intensity that you can maintain, and will also help with short bursts of effort, and with recovering from them.
And take recovery seriously. You will not improve if you try to go hard every day. Listen to your body. A heart rate monitor and a bathroom scale can be excellent training aids if you learn how to use them.
Theres a pretty good book out (from a couple of years ago) on training for alpine climbing. Worth picking up. Marc Twight's book is also good, but be prepared to check his facts ... there's some goofy pseudo-information mixed in with good advice.
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paulraphael
Jun 26, 2006, 8:14 PM
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I also want to add that it's imortant to be realistic about your goals ... and your strenghts and weaknesses.
A couple of years ago I went a little crazy preparing for a trip to the tetons. I put a lot of time into training for power, but at my level of climbing skill (unimpressive) this power gain was pretty useless. That time would have been better spent at the gunks learning to climb better and manage ropes more efficiently. The main thing I got out of doing pullups with a 40 pound pack was overuse injuries!
Now, my weight training is more about staying in balance, keeping the joints supported, and avoiding injuries ... it's about letting me climb more without problems, not about pretending I'm an elite climber who needs to crank roofs on routes harder than the ones i'll actually be on.
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adnix
Jun 26, 2006, 8:26 PM
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In reply to: Now, my weight training is more about staying in balance, keeping the joints supported, and avoiding injuries ... it's about letting me climb more without problems,
To be honest I think the best thing to do before any kind of climbing is drooling all over guidebooks. Once you have motivation you can do just about anything. It doesn't matter if you're in shape or not. I do all my climbing directly from the office. And I've had pretty good results.
The only skill I would suggest learning at home is efficiency with ropes. You save a lot of time if you're fast with rope work. Sometimes success on a route is more about rope work than having good climbing ability.
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paulraphael
Jun 27, 2006, 5:05 AM
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In reply to: To be honest I think the best thing to do before any kind of climbing is drooling all over guidebooks. Once you have motivation you can do just about anything. It doesn't matter if you're in shape or not.
Maybe so. But I find training is a good way to reduce suffering. Or maybe to get your suffering out of the way in advance ... suffer during the work week, when you're miserable anyhow, not on your vacation.
Ok, so it's about shuffling the suffering around.
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