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climbing123
Jun 21, 2006, 3:54 PM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2006
Posts: 13
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Hello all!!!
I am trying to find some "technical" information about rock climbing such as the strength reduction of rope for knots, accident numbers/year, and possibly fatal accidents. I am writing a 20 page technical report for a class I am taking and my subject is saftey in rockclimbing (Did I mention I hate school). I am an avid climber and would like to make this as accurate as possible. I was just curious if you all could help point me in the direction of some places that had real "backed up" numbers. I have found a couple of sites but from what I could tell there was no referencing, everything appeard to be hear say. Thanks in advance. :D
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mtneqgurl
Jun 27, 2006, 11:22 AM
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Registered: Jan 5, 2006
Posts: 6
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Pick up a copy of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, for starters. As for knots, select some of the books from the "How To Rock Climb" series -
Good Luck
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tisar
Jun 27, 2006, 11:57 AM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2577
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Here are some pretty nice test reports: link Also checkout http://www.uiaa.ch, here is a section with some pretty good articles.
Good luck!
- Daniel
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majid_sabet
Jun 27, 2006, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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Go to PMI rope website, they may have some thing, if not email me I might have an expert in my list who could help you out but I want a copy of your report after you done.
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papounet
Jun 27, 2006, 11:02 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
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you may want to read :
http://www.draftlight.net/lifeonaline/ Life On A Line by Dr D Merchant
The online underground rope rescue manual
http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/ Tom Moyer's Testing Page
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/...es/safety/index.html Safety Committee of thealipine club of canada
and from the page of http://personal.strath.ac.uk/...mclaren/Projects.htm
Assorted Web Resources (in no particular order)
Bill Hawkswell: "An Investigation into Climbing Rope Failures or Why I Became an Arm-Chair Mountaineer ", Cambridge Underground 1984 pp 28-32
R.A. Smith, "The Development of Equipment to Reduce Risk in Rock Climbing", Sports Engineering , 1998, 1 , 27-39.
M.J. Pavier. "Experimental and Theoretical Simulations of Climbing Falls", Sports Engineering , 1998, 1 , 79-91.
Pit Schubert: "Our ropes are much stronger than we believe", UIAA Safety Commission.
The Alpine Club of Canada: Various articles about rope and climbing equipment safety.
The BMC: British Mountaineering Council Technical Reports online. Summit Magazine back issues.
Turin Rope Conference 2002
San Diego Conference (Materials and Science in Sports) 2001
Leeds Climbing conference 1999
"Learning the Ropes" Review of modern climbing ropes, Frank Bennett, BMC Summit Magazine.
"Ropes Don't Break" Short article by Marcus Bailee, BMC Summit Magazine.
"Standard Practice" Climbing equipmant standards explained, BMC Summit Magazine.
British Standard for testing of climbing ropes. BS 892 1997.
"Splicing Modern Ropes": Article from Yachts and Yachting, 17 January 2003.
"Rope Yarns" : Article from Yachts and Yachting, 11 February 2005.
http://personal.strath.ac.uk/...mclaren/Projects.htm
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