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zozo
Aug 14, 2006, 4:03 PM
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I was messing around parcticing knots yesterday when the Garda Hitch I had tied flipped upside down on the biners.
Can somebody tell me why this couldnt be used as a belay knot? I mean it comes with the autolock feature. Why isnt the garda hitch to the reverso just as the munter hitch is to a regular belay device?
Does a Garda Hitch slip under heavy loads?
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aikibujin
Aug 14, 2006, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: Can somebody tell me why this couldnt be used as a belay knot?
Because the garda hitch is even harder to release when loaded than an autoblocking belay device.
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hemken
Aug 14, 2006, 5:07 PM
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The alpine clutch is at its best when used to haul light loads, like a daypack.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 14, 2006, 5:07 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Can somebody tell me why this couldnt be used as a belay knot? Because the garda hitch is even harder to release when loaded than an autoblocking belay device.
word.
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heiko
Aug 17, 2006, 12:06 PM
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The only situation I know of where the Garda hitch is taught is for crevasse rescue when you have practically no gear. Other than that, this hitch is a PITA.
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dirtineye
Aug 18, 2006, 1:53 AM
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Fvck you very much, it's been fun.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 18, 2006, 2:09 AM
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In reply to: More proof of cluelessness being alive and well on rc.com. This subject has been covered over and over. By now any moron should be able to find out that an alpine clutch AKA garda knot or hitch is also a great emergency ascending tool when combined with two prussiks. OH, but that would mean you could actually do a search!!! EXCUUUUUSE MEEEE! One more time, most certainly not the last: The reason it is a poor belay device is that it is a one way ratchet, DUH.
way to bump the thread you hate, asshat.
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dirtineye
Aug 18, 2006, 4:08 AM
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Fvck you very much, it's been fun.
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veganboyjosh
Aug 18, 2006, 9:14 AM
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In reply to: At least I gave decent info, unlike you, you stupid fvcking twit. Now put your head back up your ass.
congratulations, dirtineye, you're my first killfile.
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naitch
Aug 18, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Two more uses:
It helps stop itching. Apply liberally to fingertips then scatch your a$$
It's also an all weather fix for those who like to test the results of sticking their tongue to metal poles in freezing weather
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dirtineye
Aug 18, 2006, 2:03 PM
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Fvck you very much, it's been fun.
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zozo
Aug 18, 2006, 2:18 PM
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Not worth the effort Josh,
Dirt is a lonely putrid f*ck who would be ripping on me if I did'nt ask a question and he obviousely is ripping on me for asking. But you and I know the reason I was asking was in terms of it BEING a one way rachet.
He's just a drama queen bucking for another banishment so he can wet his panties on another site to proclaim how wronged and misunderstood he is.
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oldfart
Aug 19, 2006, 4:59 AM
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Making friends again, huh dirt?
No wonder the chicks love you.
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rockguide
Aug 19, 2006, 5:24 AM
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Gardas are a rescue, ascending or hauling tool. They are a poor belay device because:
1) Unstable. Even with identical D carabiners (same size) it can fail to engage - unlike a reverso or ATC guide. Gardas should be backed up when used in rescue, so relying on it as a full system is not good. Slip under heavy loads also.
2) High friction. If you were to belay with it regularily (ignoring the above) it would be a tendonitis machine (especially if you were leading all the pitches)
3) One way. The Reverso can be rigged to lower smoothly. With the Garda you would have to transfer the load to a munter - more time consuming to do.
For direct anchor belays the following list is most appropriate.
1) the Reverso/ATC guide/etc
2) gri gris
3) munters
Which is best? As always, it depends. I routinely apply all three systems.
B
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zozo
Aug 19, 2006, 5:43 AM
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In reply to: Unstable. Even with identical D carabiners (same size) it can fail to engage - unlike a reverso or ATC guide......Slip under heavy loads also.
Now see, that is usefull, thanks!
In reply to: For direct anchor belays the following list is most appropriate. 1) the Reverso/ATC guide/etc
The whole reason this even came up was because some friends and I were practicing self rescue and we had problems with the rope getting so cinched in the reverso (autoblock mode) that the ropes would not move in either direction when rigging a 5:1 z-pulley.
Then I stumbled over this knot which to be honest I had never even tried to tie till afew days ago. And it seemed like it may be a solution to that problem, but thanks to a few here I realize it really isnt.
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rockguide
Aug 19, 2006, 5:57 AM
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Glad I could help.
With your rescue practice - the cinching may because of friction, but there could be another issue. When there is more mechanical advantage than needed, rope does not get pulled through the ratchet - whether Reverso or Garda.
Did you have full weight as a load when you tried the 5:1? Did you try hand feeding the rope through the Reverso?
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dirtineye
Aug 21, 2006, 5:16 AM
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Fvck you very much, it's been fun
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