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Do you look over the anchors that your partners build?
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Poll: Do you look over the anchors that your partners build?
Always 50 / 69%
Only anchors of new partners 12 / 17%
Occasionally 9 / 12%
Never 1 / 1%
72 total votes
 

fluffystuff


Sep 28, 2007, 9:31 PM
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Do you look over the anchors that your partners build?
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caughtinside


Sep 28, 2007, 9:34 PM
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Re: [fluffystuff] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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I put occasionally. It'd probably be closer to the never side, most of my partners know their stuff cold.

The main reason I'll look at an anchor is to see what's in it, so I know what is not on the rack for the next pitch.


LostinMaine


Sep 28, 2007, 9:42 PM
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Re: [fluffystuff] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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I always do and invite my parters to inspect mine. Just as I check that harnesses are doubled back and knots are dressed. You only get one shot at life, why botch it by not taking 20 seconds to confirm that you'll be safe in the event of a fall? I have no problem shelving my pride for a partner to inspect any part of my climbing system.

Now, if some random guy walks up and starts providing unsolicited, useless advice, I lose patience quickly.


moose_droppings


Sep 28, 2007, 10:00 PM
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Re: [fluffystuff] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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Always for 2 reasons.
1. Just curious about the ingenuity and ease of it, they're all different.
2. Double check for any faults that I don't want to see him make again.


time2clmb


Sep 28, 2007, 10:19 PM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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LostinMaine wrote:
Now, if some random guy walks up and starts providing unsolicited, useless advice, I lose patience quickly.

Does this happen often? Funny you should bring it up Angelic Tongue


climbingaggie03


Sep 28, 2007, 10:59 PM
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Re: [fluffystuff] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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I always look at the anchor just to make sure that it is good. Some partners I check to make sure they did everything right, some partners I check to learn from their experience. I also think you gotta look at an anchor so you know where to clip in ect.


petsfed


Sep 28, 2007, 11:15 PM
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Re: [time2clmb] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:
LostinMaine wrote:
Now, if some random guy walks up and starts providing unsolicited, useless advice, I lose patience quickly.

Does this happen often? Funny you should bring it up Angelic Tongue

I've had people roll up to my toprope anchor thinking it was booty. I was on the route in question at the time.


chossmonkey


Sep 29, 2007, 12:46 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
I put occasionally. It'd probably be closer to the never side, most of my partners know their stuff cold.

The main reason I'll look at an anchor is to see what's in it, so I know what is not on the rack for the next pitch.
Yeah, there really isn't much to check when they are stancing is there?


LostinMaine


Sep 29, 2007, 2:30 AM
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Re: [time2clmb] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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time2clmb wrote:

Does this happen often? Funny you should bring it up Angelic Tongue

You'd be amazed the amount of "advice" I get while climbing in Acadia during the summer.


time2clmb


Sep 29, 2007, 2:42 AM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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LostinMaine wrote:
time2clmb wrote:

Does this happen often? Funny you should bring it up Angelic Tongue

You'd be amazed the amount of "advice" I get while climbing in Acadia during the summer.

Hmmm...maybe it's time to re-evaluate if your getting that many people questioning your setups.


jt512


Sep 29, 2007, 3:45 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
I put occasionally.

*shock*

I have checked every anchor I've ever climbed to. You'd be surprised what you'll find from people who supposedly know what they are doing.

Jay


knieveltech


Sep 29, 2007, 4:06 AM
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Re: [fluffystuff] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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Always. I generally learn something every time.


reno


Sep 29, 2007, 5:57 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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Generally, only with new partners that haven't proven they can build solid anchors yet.

From time to time, I'll check a veteran partner's anchor, if the belay spot is a strange one.


majid_sabet


Sep 29, 2007, 7:49 PM
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Re: [reno] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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Tongue


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 30, 2007, 3:28 AM)


sinrtb


Sep 29, 2007, 7:55 PM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2007
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Re: [majid_sabet] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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I am disappointed at the lack of red and green arrows majid.


reno


Sep 29, 2007, 8:31 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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Your partner puts pulleys in his anchor?


notapplicable


Sep 29, 2007, 9:02 PM
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Re: [reno] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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reno wrote:
Your partner puts pulleys in his anchor?

I certianly do! You should see the lazy bastards I climb with sometimes. After I hear, "I can't do this" for the third time I automaticaly start hauling their ass.

To much rock, not enough time. If I hung around waiting on them I would never get anything done.


majid_sabet


Sep 29, 2007, 9:12 PM
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Re: [reno] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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Tongue


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 30, 2007, 3:28 AM)


smallclimber


Sep 29, 2007, 9:55 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
I even asked him to equlized it, that is the other end

You like the edge protections ?

[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5324/p1010183ro1.jpg[/IMG]

Did you take those pictures just for this post, or do you have a collection of bizzare anchor pictures at your disposal?


skiclimb


Sep 29, 2007, 10:04 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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river rescue practice day?


fresh


Sep 29, 2007, 10:19 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
No
I trust my partner's anchor

[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3599/p1010032rn5.jpg[/IMG]
this is awful. there should always be more than one tree. and if that tree fails, WHAT THEN? you would find yourself UNPROTECTED, free soloing along what seems to be the superexposed terrain of the forest floor. what really hurts is to imagine that someone would see this picture as an ideal setup for class 1 belays. disgusting. take a lap.


billcoe_


Sep 29, 2007, 11:33 PM
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Re: [fresh] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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I climbed with the same partner almost 20 plus years. He was a true expert, not just because he was an AMGA guide when that first happened, but because he was.

I can't remember not ever even briefly looking at his anchors. I remember fixing one in particular to this day. It was F*ed, he knew it, I knew it, but he was dehydrated to the point of stupidity. I had stopped him earlier and pulled a can of pears out of the haul bag and had him eat them while we sat on a ledge (I remember wistfully watching that with my tongue swollen inside my dry mouth too) , and I had led the next few pitches as well till he started to perk back up.

I hope that people I climb with look at my stuff too, even if just a quick critical glance. Even a great climber like Lynn Hill (and others too) can forget something so simple a 3 year old could do it, tieing in correctly, why would we not look at the anchor as we blow past it on a multipitch?


reno


Sep 29, 2007, 11:48 PM
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Re: [billcoe_] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
why would we not look at the anchor as we blow past it on a multipitch?

I think perhaps there may be a confusion over terms here.

I'll LOOK at my partner's anchor, just out of habit. But for some partners, I will SCRUTINIZE the anchor far more than I would for others.

A passing glance, sure. Probably every time.

Close scrutiny? Always for new partners, rarely for folks I trust implicity without question. Such folks are rare, sure, but they exist.


caughtinside


Sep 30, 2007, 3:18 AM
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Re: [jt512] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
I put occasionally.

*shock*

I have checked every anchor I've ever climbed to. You'd be surprised what you'll find from people who supposedly know what they are doing.

Jay

Yep. You've already climbed on it by the time you get a chance to check it.


desertwanderer81


Sep 30, 2007, 4:49 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Do you look over the anchors that your partners build? [In reply to]
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inspect is a bad word....but I suppose it is just habbit that I look at what my partner has done when he/she is about to go. I'll be at the station....so I'll just look at it, ya know?

I have caught two partners who have not doubled backed their harnesses. One was a GF who had been climbing for about 2 years who was about to go on a RAPELL and the other partner was an ex-professional guide!

I've never had any problems with anchors of partners though.....

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