I mean for every Protection device,such as SLCD, there will be a max holding power, like blackdiamond c3s,the 000 is for aid use only,it can hold 4kn,and the 00 can hold 6kn etc....The question is,if the protection is well placed, how much kn can hold a fall? in general,more than 5kn or 8kn?

You question is to vast and stated wrong. First, the question I think you are asking is how much force can the gear hold? Secondly, to figure out the force of a fall there needs to be more information given, length above gear, distance to belay, rope direction, etc... To asnswer the question you have given, the BD00 is rated to 6Kn then it will break around 6Kn. This is considering that the rock doesn't fracture along with other variables.

Check this out, it is the petzl fall simulator... see if it helps.

http://en.petzl.com/...l=56&Activite=14

j-

Flint has it right. There are many factors that go into a placement. The rating on a cam is for perfect placements, which don't always happen. It's kind of hard to answer.

>Cam

Ok, lets review... I know that you are new to the sport and that you are from China, so I understand the terminology disconnect, but terms in these situations are very important. I am not trying to be mean, just helping.

The question should read...

What is the force in Kn that is used as a standard to distinguish whether protection is aid-only or not ? 5kn or 6kn or 8 kn?

Fall force and fall factor are two different measurements. And fall power could allude to either.

Secondly, to determine how strong a piece of pro is, companies pull test and/or drop test these pieces. These two processes are extremely different from the standard climbing fall and should be understood/applied as a standard and not an exact replication of an actuall climbing fall.

Now, I believe that I read somewhere that the standard for directional aid / body weight only gear is a 5Kn breaking force. I do not know an exact source for this, maybe Cam or someone else can point to a location.

Why is it that you are interested in this. Did you buy a full set of BD brass and now you want to climb above them?

j-

To add my two cents... the 000 and 00 pieces make good "confidence" pieces. e.g. if it's all you can get in for your mind to get over the next move...

Flint has it right. There are many factors that go into a placement. The rating on a cam is for perfect placements, which don't always happen. It's kind of hard to answer.

>Cam

Ropes are usually rated between 8 and 10kN so an 8kN piece...no problem and I'm also a bigger guy (215lb) It's when the rantings start to get in the 2-4kN...um ya....I have climbed above a #3 BD stopper and didn't think much about it and that's rated 5kN I think. When a smaller piece of gear gets placed for "confidence" a higher rated piece goes in ASAP once passed the move. when in doubt, back it up....or just don't fall.

The smaller the piece, the less distance you have above it...

What on earth makes you people think that 9-11mm dynamic ropes have a lower tensile strength than 7mm accessory cord is beyond me.

More importantly, the rating is the strength of the cam itself, not its holding power.

Remember, the vast majority of gear placements that fail do so because the ROCK lets go of the gear, not because the gear itself breaks.

Check rock quality along with everything else when placing trad gear. It's just as important.

Third, an 8.5 dim. rope is extremely thin. This size is typically used for ice and or as a twin/double rope. most gear climbers use anything between a 9.8 rope and a 10.5.

please consider this when using the simulator, along with the fact that gear climbs normally creates directions in the rope, and not a perfect straight path situation.