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mshore
Oct 24, 2002, 2:00 PM
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:???::???::???::???::???::???::???:
Maybe someone can help me understand:
I just read this article at:
http://www.wvclimbing.com/tradtips/hitches.html
My question:
"For rappelling on two strands, munter hitches are far from ideal; you can't run both strands through the same hitch, so you have to use a separate biner and hitch on each strand"
I have Muntered on two ropes, running both ropes through the same locker. Yes, it does make a mess of the ropes but it works and seems safe if you have to do it. Any reason anyone can think of in which his way is safer?
Thanks.
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punk
Oct 24, 2002, 2:24 PM
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My experience with rappelling on munter is that its can be done in two methods using the same biner
the first is putting the hitch on both strands simultaneously
The second is using the munter on each strand individually
I would rather the first just for the reason of time saving but it will twist the living hell out of your rope
The second method have the added advantage of twisting the rope noticeably less but since both strands not loaded equally there is some sort of sawing activity up in the rappel anchor which will come to play if u rappelling through the webbing (like in some alpine and trad situation where u have to rig the anchor yourself with leaving minimal gear behind)
Therefore, it is a judgement call if the anchor fix uses the individual method but if u go through the webbing use the together
As far as this NOT being safe the only reason that I can think of is the friction of the braking hand opening the gate in a screw lock biner to solve it reverse the biner gate to open from the opposite side of your break hand
Otherwise, I do not see the danger in it
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killclimbz
Oct 24, 2002, 2:33 PM
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Learn to set up the carabiner brake rappel. The munter is great to know, but the brake rappel will serve you better for the situations described.
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punk
Oct 24, 2002, 2:36 PM
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If u do have the spare biners then Kudos
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gravical
Oct 25, 2002, 11:17 AM
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using a munter on a double rope could become quite a problem if you are halfway down. Well, whatever you do, remember to stay calm, relax, and work out your problem slowly. Unfortunately the only way to get experience is to need it and to not have it
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marvin_1964
Oct 25, 2002, 11:52 AM
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If you're at the top of the route and rappelling back down wouldn't you have more than enough krabs on the quickdraws/extenders to make the karabiner break ?
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timpanogos
Oct 25, 2002, 12:43 PM
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also consider a counterbalanced rap - so you would only need to muntner one rope.
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mshore
Oct 25, 2002, 1:13 PM
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whats a quickdraw?
Kills and Marv:
Thanks - the biner break is cool and fast and all but it does require quite a bit to build it - compared to say one biner and a munter. My thought on everything with gear is that less is more. Why use six biners when one will do. Less to potentially fuc up in the dark and what not. I just have to deal with the kinking but patience and planning are my best weapon for that.
Thanks for your thoughts. I am going climbing now hehe
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billcoe_
Oct 25, 2002, 7:40 PM
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The quote is: "For rappelling on two strands, munter hitches are far from ideal; you can't run both strands through the same hitch,"
The guy is just wrong and has some other misinformation mixed in as well in that artical. Plenty of Eurotrash I've climbed with have rapped on a double strand. In fact, I've never seen it any other way. It's kind of startling when you first see it, but I've employed it many times and it works fine.
It's much faster to set up than a carabiner brake (which I generally prefer) and in the Alps, speed is saftey, and big walls can mean many raps and big time savings when the little increments add up.
Bill
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coldclimb
Oct 25, 2002, 8:45 PM
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I've used the munter on a short rappel with two ropes to see how it worked. It's very easy, but it does take more effort than something like an atc. I just used one munter on a locking biner on the rappel loop of my harness, and another on a dogbone to get it out of the way of the other. Worked just fine. Always remember to lock the biner though.
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coclimber26
Oct 25, 2002, 8:55 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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I use it with both ropes going through the same HMS. I use a long prussik cord tied to my chest harness as my backup. When using the munter make sure your backup is above you instead of below the munter because the braking action of the munter is upward when rapelling.
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