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estwing
Oct 24, 2002, 4:40 PM
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Hi, until today I just accepted the fact that everyone says a trad climber needs a fat rope, of 10.5 or 11mm daimeter. Now I am curious as to why this is the case. Don't sport climbers who fall on their ropes all the time give their cord more abuse?
Thanks for you help,
Sam
[ This Message was edited by: estwing on 2002-10-24 09:54 ]
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dune
Oct 24, 2002, 5:08 PM
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Who's everybody?... I use a thinner line (9.4) for trad, single or miltipitch. Or, I may use my doubles if I know I need to rap. But I rarely use my fat line (10.6) for trad or sport. I do use it for big walls (that's why I bought it), but maybe that's what you're talking about, and possibly confused over.
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tradguy
Oct 24, 2002, 5:12 PM
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I agree. I've never heard of anyone claiming they need a larger diameter rope for trad climbing than sport. I use double 9mm quite often for trad, and also use my single 9.4 mm for trad, at least as much as I use it for sport, if not more.
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bradbaker
Oct 24, 2002, 5:16 PM
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I trad climb on various diameter ropes. 9.8mm - 10.5mm. Also some small diameter doubles (9mm?). The thicker diameter ropes seem to be more durable, especially when contending with sharp edges and crystals. If I'm doing a route that has sketchy rock or sharp edges, I'd choose my doubes over the skinny 9.8mm.
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jumaringjeff
Oct 24, 2002, 5:19 PM
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Same here, I know several tradders that use ropes in the 9-10mm range.
I'm planning on getting a new rope next spring, probably around 9.5mm, and I plan on doing lots of trad climbing.
-jj
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stevematthys
Oct 25, 2002, 12:21 AM
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i use a 10.5 because it can take more abuse on those routes that just like to eat up ropes.
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holygecko
Oct 25, 2002, 2:19 PM
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I prefer my mammut flash 10.5 and it seems to do everything i need to do just fine
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edman1
Oct 25, 2002, 2:28 PM
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Also, larger diameter ropes tend to catch better in most belay devices. This is applicable in sport and trad. I don't think I'd want to do either with a single 8-9mm rope. It leaves more room for belayer error.
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hyhuu
Oct 25, 2002, 5:07 PM
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You don't need to. However, it increases the safety factor. Sport routes are fairly straight and tend to be steep to overhang, therefore the fall is clean. Trad line on the other hands can wander (with the exception of splitter cracks), and might have lots of ledges where sharp edges can do damage to the rope. Also for adventure climbs, which are all trads related, the potential of loose rocks falling onto the rope is also increased.
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texplorer
Oct 25, 2002, 8:38 PM
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A fat rope eh, I thought all us trad-boys use goldline like the oldshoolers.
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bwnco
Oct 25, 2002, 9:11 PM
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9.8 mm here and going thinner next time.
[ This Message was edited by: bwnco on 2002-10-25 14:14 ]
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