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marvin_1964
Oct 25, 2002, 1:16 PM
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Especially on multipitch routes and on sea cliffs I use a french prussik above the belay/rappel device to protect/back up the rappel. I was wondering if this is standard practice in the US ?
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jumaringjeff
Oct 25, 2002, 1:52 PM
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What's a french prussik? Anything like a regular prussik?
-jj
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marvin_1964
Oct 25, 2002, 2:32 PM
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It depends on what you term a 'regular' prussik. From my perspective:
A 'regular' Prussik - static cord looped around the rope and threaded back through itself and one end clipped through the krab (doesn't release when weighted!)
French Prussik - static cord looped around the rope, and both ends clipped through the krab (releases when weighted).
My descriptions probably aren't that good but there's a diagram at:
http://www.climbing.ie/knots.html
[ This Message was edited by: marvin_1964 on 2002-10-25 07:33 ]
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bradbaker
Oct 25, 2002, 2:38 PM
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I will occassionally use some type of prussik backup when rappelling. Maybe 15% of the time, usually when I'm tired, scared, etc.
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winkwinklambonini
Oct 25, 2002, 3:34 PM
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No No No
A french prussik is on the rope below the rap device, and needs to be narrower and more supple because it has to hold at lower wieght.
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bradhill
Oct 25, 2002, 3:37 PM
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Some folks use it here, although it's more commonly called an autoblock than a french prussik, is generally placed beneath the rappell device to prevent it becoming stuck out of reach. There are a LOT of topics on this floating around. Look before you post a new one.
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jumaringjeff
Oct 25, 2002, 4:05 PM
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Yeah that looks a lot like an autoblock. I've used it before, but placed below the rap device, clipped into a leg loop.
-jj
[ This Message was edited by: jumaringjeff on 2002-10-25 09:10 ]
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trkrunner03
Oct 26, 2002, 2:57 AM
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I use the auto block because its on your break hand so it is easy to weight whil rapping so it doesnt cinch up. On the leg loop is sweet
Dave
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marvin_1964
Oct 26, 2002, 11:44 AM
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In reply to Winkwinklambonini:
I agree that the prussik needs to be narrow (4-6mm static cord). But, If you have the French prussik/autobloc above the rappel device, you can then quickly escape the system as weighting the autobloc creates slack rope and you can remove the rappel device from the system. If the autobloc is below the rappel device and you want to escape the system in an emergency, you have to set up a second autobloc above the rappel device anyway!
[ This Message was edited by: marvin_1964 on 2002-10-26 04:45 ]
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coclimber26
Oct 26, 2002, 1:38 PM
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I usually use a 5-6mm 2 wrap prussik on my leg strap. When it's wet or icy I use 3 wraps. Try to keep the diameter about 50-60 percent of the rope you are using for max grip. Autoblocks are very similar. If using a munter to rapell I use either a Bachman or a Klemmheist from my chest harness because the munter has the opposite braking action.
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coclimber26
Oct 26, 2002, 1:40 PM
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I usually use a 5-6mm 2 wrap prussik on my leg strap. When it's wet or icy I use 3 wraps. Try to keep the diameter about 50-60 percent of the rope you are using for max grip. Autoblocks are very similar. If using a munter to rapell I use either a Bachman or a Klemmheist from my chest harness because the munter has the opposite braking action.
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winkwinklambonini
Oct 28, 2002, 10:23 PM
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Marvin,
why would you ever want to remove your device on rappell?
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daftdog
Oct 28, 2002, 11:16 PM
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how about using a GriGri? A very safe way to rap.
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marvin_1964
Oct 29, 2002, 1:06 PM
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Mike
Was rappelling on twin ropes, which jammed above me and ended up with ropes running from anchor to rappel device and straight back up the route. Was able to partially free one rope so that it reached the ground, but had to escape the system to transfer the device to the single rope!
I know, some people are just plain awkward (it is the first time that's happened)!
[ This Message was edited by: marvin_1964 on 2002-10-29 05:08 ]
[ This Message was edited by: marvin_1964 on 2002-10-29 07:47 ]
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mountainmonkey
Oct 29, 2002, 4:11 PM
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It sounds like you need to pay more attention to your ropes while rapplling.
I am curious on how you were rappelling on twin ropes and you transferred to the single rope??
What about ascending the rope to free the stuck end?
[ This Message was edited by: mountainmonkey on 2002-10-29 08:12 ]
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billcoe_
Oct 29, 2002, 5:16 PM
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Sorry to break from tradtion, but I will step away from the crowd and try to answer the question:
"I was wondering if this is standard practice in the US ?"
No, it doesn't get used here. Hardly ever. Very rare perhaps occasionally, although occasionally may be to ambitious of a word.
So the short answer is NO.
I do not see the Eurotrash whom climb here using it either. Does this suggest it is rare on your side of the pond too?
Bill
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marvin_1964
Oct 30, 2002, 7:50 AM
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Wow, I'm impressed, someone actually read the question all the way through (not that I minded getting sidetracked onto the technical side).
Similar situation over here really, most people don't bother until they get into a really scary situation and then they tend to become converts. I must admit I use one most but not every time, unless it's a multipitch route, a sea cliff, danger of rockfall or or Americans above me etc. Oh, yeah, or to set a good example to a beginner.
[ This Message was edited by: marvin_1964 on 2002-10-29 23:54 ]
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