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rogue10186
Apr 15, 2008, 8:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 5, 2005
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I think I've gone and messed up the A1 pulley on my right ring finger (shit)
I was climbing on a slaby crimp route in the gym last night, and had a small, three finger crimp open handed when I peeled off. I didn't here a pop, but I immediately felt something wrong, in my hand. I continued to climb for maybe one or two more easy problems, after the pain died down to see if I had really messed it up (doh), before deciding to go home.
Well now it seems like if I try to close my right ring finger with pressure on it, it hurts at the base of the finger (as in the under the knuckle on the palm side). It also hurts in the same spot when I try to close the pinky finger but keep the ring finger open. Does this sound like an A1 pulley injury?
I've read up a bit, and it's looking like a minimum of two-three weeks of no climbing before I can go easy on jug routes. But does this count out a pull up bar? How about crack climbing (hand crack, not finger!)? Also how much would it help to tape the ring finger to the pinky to help stabilize it?
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rocklobster420
Apr 16, 2008, 3:29 AM
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Registered: Jan 18, 2008
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YO MAN, I FEEL YOUR PAIN. The way you described your incident, I thought I was having a flash back or deja vu. I was on a face route, grabbing for an open hand crimper with right hand, and my right ring finger went haywire on me. As well, I climbed for about 20 more minutes and it was getting worse. I felt the strain from my right ring finger to my mid forearm. If I make a fist it doesnt hurt or hinder my motion, but if I put pressure on my finger while open I feel some pain near the knuckle, exactly the same with the pinky, although it seems to hurt worse when I pull on something with my pinky I still feel it in my ring finger. This was two weeks ago and I have been doing as much research on this as possible and everything I have rendered seems to match what is described as A1 or A4 pulley. Anyways, the first week was hell, I thought my injury was gonna be permanent and that I would have to stop climbing, ( Id rather die a horrible death). After the second week I tried to take it slow ( no climbing still) but I would stretch my fingers individually for a good period of time, which seems to do wonders. Now in my second week, things are looking brighter. I no longer feel a regular pain in my hand without even doing anything ( as I did before ), and I have been testing my hanging grip strength by hanging on a door trim and slowly putting the weight on my hands until I feel the slightest discomfort. Now (still 2 weeks post injury) I only feel a slight discomfort when moving my hand in an unorthodox manner. I think it may hurt doing an undercling though, but I havent tried yet. THE BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE is stop climbing immediately, stretch your injured area multiple times daily, massage daily, avoid strenuous activity until the pain subsides then slowly test your grip to evaluate the current pain. I havent climbed since the incident and my hand feels sooo much better. I am actually thinking about doin some easy juggin in the next week, but I am going to take it sloooow. Dont want a permanent injury. On the bright side, it seems to be healing relatively fast. Also I am doing sets of pull ups on the door trim and it doesnt hurt at all.
GOOD LUCK AND UNTIL NEXT CLIMB,
J is out.
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rogue10186
Apr 16, 2008, 3:40 AM
Post #3 of 9
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Oh yea, after today (I didn't climb, but I can tell it's definitely screwed up), I'm not planning on climbing on it for at least three weeks, and even then I'm planning on just doing pull-ups on the bar and then on to playing with more jugs than the playboy magazine for a while.
In the meantime, I guess I'll work on core strength and cardio (at least I can still run!), keep drinking plenty of fluids, and I'll be seeing a doc on Thursday for a physical for my summer job, so maybe he'll be able to tell me a bit more.
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rocklobster420
Apr 16, 2008, 4:11 AM
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Registered: Jan 18, 2008
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GOOD STUFF, that's probably the best way to go about it. Nice to have a physical so close, maybe you can get a "free" diagnosis. Stay positive, you seem to have a good outlook. What kind of summer job? lifeguarding? climbing guide maybe? anyways, gotta go, Im at work now. Today was my first day back on the site in a while cause they blocked my network, but I found a loophole. MUAMUAHAHAHA.
UNTIL NEXT CLIMB
J is out.
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GeneralBenson
Apr 20, 2008, 1:11 AM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2007
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Same thing happened to me, except it was my ring finger. My observation seems to be that while A2 injuries seem to come for crimping incidents, A1 problems come from open handed stuff. That's what I think, and one else notice that? Because A while back, my first knuckles (PIP joint) were starting to hurt, so I was like, no more crimping, only open hand. Everything: open hand, open hand, open hand. Next thing I know, A1 injury. I guess it's like a 'pick your poison' kind of thing.
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rocklobster420
Apr 20, 2008, 9:57 PM
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Registered: Jan 18, 2008
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Good advice, I didnt really express that idea well. I couldnt stretch it at all in the first week, but after it stopped hurting so much I would work on my range of motion very delicately, But your point is very valid. Thanks for correcting me. Oh and your smiley had me laughin pretty hard. :) HAPPY 4/20 EVERYONE....
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static_endurance
Apr 20, 2008, 10:50 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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My only advice is though pull up bars offer a wicked grip and a good means to keep your upper body up to speed, still be careful to not overdo them. I had a similar incident happen to me, only I felt a pop. That happened 2 years ago, and it's never fully healed. I found (personally, at least) that though pull-ups kept me in relative shape, my finger would bother me if I hung from a bar for too long. I'd recommend sticking mostly to the juggy routes idea, that way some weight is still on your feet, and your entire body weight isn't hitting your fingers.
After adequate rest, of course. Wait that few weeks and let it start to heal before doing anything.
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rogue10186
Apr 20, 2008, 11:01 PM
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Registered: Oct 5, 2005
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I actually went to the doctor on Friday for a physical and had him look at it, he said it actually is probably just like a sprain, not a full tear, b/c if I had torn the A1 I wouldn't be able to close that finger, and there would have been lots of swelling. As I actually still have full range on that finger, there's no swelling, and the pain has almost totally gone away, I think I agree with what he said. However, I'm still gonna take off at least another week just to let it recover fully.
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