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ghisino
Dec 22, 2008, 3:11 PM
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declare :
-the size of the smallest campus rung you can dead hang on for at least 5 secs. Incut/sharp rungs, no slopey stuff. Four fingers, no crimping, semi-open position
-your max sport redpoint ever.
-your max boulder grade ever
then jt512 will maybe have fun again 
(This post was edited by ghisino on Dec 22, 2008, 3:14 PM)
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ghisino
Dec 22, 2008, 3:13 PM
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1/3"
5.12d
V8
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johnwesely
Dec 22, 2008, 3:19 PM
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1/3"
.12a
v7 (sporadically)
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lodi5onu
Dec 22, 2008, 4:24 PM
Post #4 of 34
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1/16"
5.9c(x)
V1/2
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troutboy
Dec 22, 2008, 4:37 PM
Post #5 of 34
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6.1216768765 x 10e-3 nanometers
5.2+
V0--
I'm a climbing machine
TS
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ghisino
Dec 22, 2008, 4:39 PM
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lol
guess there are some gross imprecisions in the last two answers :D
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angry
Dec 22, 2008, 4:45 PM
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I'm pretty sure I could lay on a 12" rung. If I had some help getting up to it.
5.13
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mturner
Dec 22, 2008, 4:58 PM
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I see the value in open hand training when hanging stuff like this, but for your study saying "no crimping" is lame and will not correlate well. It's not like you're going to then only climb using the open hand position.
My friend recently did a study involving dead hang time on a regular campus rung versus your redpoint level. He found while there is an overall correlation from beginners to advanced climbers in increased time versus higher redpoints, the study pretty much ignores maybe the most important factor, technique. He allowed any type of gripping position. I closed crimped until my hands opened up and I went to an open hand crimp.
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ghisino
Dec 22, 2008, 5:23 PM
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mturner wrote: I see the value in open hand training when hanging stuff like this, but for your study saying "no crimping" is lame and will not correlate well. It's not like you're going to then only climb using the open hand position. My friend recently did a study involving dead hang time on a regular campus rung versus your redpoint level. He found while there is an overall correlation from beginners to advanced climbers in increased time versus higher redpoints, the study pretty much ignores maybe the most important factor, technique. He allowed any type of gripping position. I closed crimped until my hands opened up and I went to an open hand crimp.
mr, it was just for simplifying.
some of us never crimp when doing dead hangs.
btw it is obvious that technique is THE factor. So obvious that many forget ;)
my point is just that among purely physical abilities there's always been a lot of hype (exp among beginners) on pullups, while the most common limits for average humans willing to climb a bit of every style are
a) contact strenght aka holding power aka fingers aka forearms aka before pulling on it, you got to hold it
b) core strenght
c) Tendons, joints, pulleys, etc...
Then maybe even more important is neuromuscular stuff, coordination, balance etc (the grey zone in between technique and physical abilities/limitations).
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churningindawake
Dec 22, 2008, 5:29 PM
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-I don't know. I don't do campus boards.
-5.13a
-v9
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fist
Dec 22, 2008, 6:22 PM
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1/2"
5.9
V3
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mturner
Dec 22, 2008, 6:34 PM
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ghisino wrote: mturner wrote: I see the value in open hand training when hanging stuff like this, but for your study saying "no crimping" is lame and will not correlate well. It's not like you're going to then only climb using the open hand position. My friend recently did a study involving dead hang time on a regular campus rung versus your redpoint level. He found while there is an overall correlation from beginners to advanced climbers in increased time versus higher redpoints, the study pretty much ignores maybe the most important factor, technique. He allowed any type of gripping position. I closed crimped until my hands opened up and I went to an open hand crimp. mr, it was just for simplifying. some of us never crimp when doing dead hangs
No, the simple thing would have been to allow crimping. Your mixing up training with testing grip strength. Of course when training on a campus board or dead hanging you probably mostly open hand rungs, but for purposes of testing your overall performance, you should use whatever grip is most effective for the hold.
Man, I really don't even care...how did I get caught up in this?! 
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ghisino
Dec 22, 2008, 6:36 PM
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mturner wrote: ghisino wrote: mturner wrote: I see the value in open hand training when hanging stuff like this, but for your study saying "no crimping" is lame and will not correlate well. It's not like you're going to then only climb using the open hand position. My friend recently did a study involving dead hang time on a regular campus rung versus your redpoint level. He found while there is an overall correlation from beginners to advanced climbers in increased time versus higher redpoints, the study pretty much ignores maybe the most important factor, technique. He allowed any type of gripping position. I closed crimped until my hands opened up and I went to an open hand crimp. mr, it was just for simplifying. some of us never crimp when doing dead hangs No, the simple thing would have been to allow crimping. Your mixing up training with testing grip strength. Of course when training on a campus board or dead hanging you probably mostly open hand rungs, but for purposes of testing your overall performance, you should use whatever grip is most effective for the hold. Man, I really don't even care...how did I get caught up in this?!
aaah don't get it tooooooo seriously man :)
btw, the real reason is that I do not know on what rung I can dead hang while crimping. Guess it might be smaller but I am too concerned by potential pulley injuries to try (of course I do crimp when catually climbing)
also been a long time since my last dead hanging session though!
(This post was edited by ghisino on Dec 22, 2008, 6:42 PM)
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elmayimbe
Dec 22, 2008, 7:32 PM
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1 or 2-arm hang?
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SLABMONKEY
Dec 22, 2008, 7:42 PM
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ghisino wrote: declare : -the size of the smallest campus rung you can dead hang on for at least 5 secs. Incut/sharp rungs, no slopey stuff. Four fingers, no crimping, semi-open position -your max sport redpoint ever. -your max boulder grade ever At what angle? I can hang onto anything when it is laying flat on the ground.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 22, 2008, 9:01 PM
Post #18 of 34
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I'm pretty sure I could lay on a 12" rung. Isn't anybody going to say anything? 
I'm pretty sure that the 12'' isn't big enough for angry to lay on.
As for the original question, I think I can hang on 1'' crimp-- or it that size called pocket?
5.12a
and
V-something-in-the-middle-of-the-single-digits? not sure
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angry
Dec 23, 2008, 4:02 AM
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lena_chita wrote: onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I'm pretty sure I could lay on a 12" rung. Isn't anybody going to say anything? I'm pretty sure that the 12'' isn't big enough for angry to lay on.
Are you calling me fat?
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rightarmbad
Dec 23, 2008, 11:46 AM
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Again a poor question, the weight of the person in relation to the size of the hold will blur your results.
Your question will only show who are the lightest small handed people with reasonable strength.
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AK89
Dec 23, 2008, 12:07 PM
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5.12c 
v6
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rtwilli4
Dec 23, 2008, 4:55 PM
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Campus boards are not fun so I don't do them.
.11c (also my hardest onsite)
.12b if you count Thailand
I don't know the grade of the hardest problems I've done.
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ghisino
Dec 23, 2008, 5:36 PM
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rightarmbad wrote: Again a poor question, the weight of the person in relation to the size of the hold will blur your results. Your question will only show who are the lightest small handed people with reasonable strength.
the same ones that usually are impressive beginners.
never seen a tall muscled guy impress me on his first day on the rock/at the gym.
Instead I've seen several "surprising" skinny relatively short bastards, or even girls.
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rainman0915
Dec 24, 2008, 9:23 AM
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not sure
.11a
v3
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jto
Dec 24, 2008, 9:53 AM
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3/4 inch edge with added 90 lbs (+ my own 190 lbs) for 8 secs
.13b redpoint just waiting for execution
V5/6 boulder
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