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keepitcreative
Feb 22, 2009, 7:42 PM
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Hey guys. I was just wondering what you are doing as warmup before competitions or even just a bouldering session. I usually start with some stretching,then do 2 really easy problems then 2 problems a little harder and that's about it. But i'm going to my first competition on March 28th and i was wondering what was best to have a good warmpup.
Thank you
(This post was edited by keepitcreative on Feb 22, 2009, 7:57 PM)
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d0nk3yk0n9
Feb 22, 2009, 7:54 PM
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I always start with stretching no matter what I'm doing. I usually stretch out as many different areas as I can, focusing especially on my hands and fingers. From there it varies. For warming up for a standard bouldering session, I usually do a few jug hauls and then just increase the difficulty from there. For comps, it depends on the format of the comp. For redpoint comps, I usually spend the first half hour to an hour of the comp climbing easier climbs, then start in on the harder, higher point value, climbs. For onsight comps, it sort of depends on how long you expect to be in iso. Your goal is to come out of iso not pumped, but not totally cooled down either. How you achieve that depends on how long you have to wait. If you know because of the running order that it's going to be an hour or two until you climb, you make work your way up to somewhat harder stuff (not jug hauls, but not your limit either) at some point and then use jug hauls to stay warm. If you're one of the first few climbers, then you might not have time to do this, and might have to rely on just using jugs to warm up. Overall, don't fret too much about warming up before the comp. Get yourself warm, but don't wear yourself out.
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Alphaboth
Feb 22, 2009, 8:04 PM
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i heard it's better to stretch afterwards, stretching beforehand restricts your muscles from thier maximum performance.
good for preventing injuries though, i guess stretching a good hour before hand is good that way your muscle tissue has time to relax
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rainman0915
Feb 22, 2009, 8:38 PM
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i always start with some good stretching, then do a long traverse, then start with a couple of really easy problems, going slow and deliberate. Then start doing a coupled of medium routes until i feel nice and loose.
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mr.tastycakes
Feb 23, 2009, 3:08 AM
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i usually down like 4-5 redbulls and listen to heavy metal on my ipod to get psyched. it's all about the psych, brah. oh, and turn the fan towards the wall for that perfect sending wind!
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lena_chita
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Feb 23, 2009, 2:47 PM
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Well, you would not be able to warm up on the bouldering problems BEFORE the comp starts, so...
-If you can, do a little bit of jumping, etc-- to get your heart rate up a bit.
-do range-of-motion warm-ups for the upper body. I mean things like shoulder srugs/rotations, arm swings/rotations, wrist rotations, etc. about 10 in each direction.
-hold your straight arms above your head and pump your fists hard 20 times or so, rest while holding your arms above your head, and do 20 more.
When the competition starts, do several easy problems, way easier than you think your lowest scoring problem is going to be, and work up from there.
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d0nk3yk0n9
Feb 23, 2009, 8:56 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Well, you would not be able to warm up on the bouldering problems BEFORE the comp starts, so...
That actually depends on the format of the comp. Most onsight format comps (i.e, comps with iso) that I've been to have some bouldering available for warming up in iso. However, if it's a redpoint comp, then yes, you have to use the first part of the comp to warm up.
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bothomsen
Feb 24, 2009, 2:23 AM
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i start by jumping a little, shaking my arms to. do some high jumps from down low. swing my arms while twisting my torso(upperbody) from side to side with my arms horizontal.
then some fun with a couple of light curls like 10pounds each. "laterals/deltoi pressups/hammercurls etc.)
do 2-3 sets of hanging leg raises and pull-ups. 3-5 of each ( max. 10-20% of max rep.)
then some fun with a couple of light curls like 10pounds each. "laterals/deltoi pressups/hammercurls etc.).
2 sets of push-ups 5, 10 rep.
some dynamic stretching of the legs, core and upper body.
then climb 1 route there is 2 numbers below my onsight.
then 1 route just below my onsight(both routes i know very well, and have done "a lot" before).
then rest for 20-30 minutes.
and are set to go
and do a lot to psyce me up when approaching the route
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shockabuku
Feb 24, 2009, 2:26 PM
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You should probably do some running in place or jump rope for a few minutes prior to stretching. Stretching cold muscles is not good.
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d0nk3yk0n9
Feb 24, 2009, 8:56 PM
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shockabuku wrote: You should probably do some running in place or jump rope for a few minutes prior to stretching. Stretching cold muscles is not good.
Yeah, when I said start with stretching, I guess I oversimplified what I mean. I do some (very) light stretching and loosening up (arm circles and the like) and then jump on one or two jug hauls just to warm my muscles up before I stretch.
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