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samb543
Mar 26, 2010, 2:21 PM
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Hey guys, ive been climbing for about 3 months now and im experiencing some pain issues. Im a healthy 18 year old with no joint/muscle problems that i am aware of, but when i climb, my arms really pay the price. when doing strength moves such as lock outs, my arms feel fine. however, if i am to suddenly lose my grip in the middle of a lock out or even just let go quickly, i get a horribly sharp pain in my forearm and bicep. it only lasts for a fraction of a second and then its gone. does anybody know what this is or how i can work to prevent it in the future???
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johnwesely
Mar 26, 2010, 2:38 PM
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Don't do moves like that until your body can handle it, and make sure that you warm up properly. A common thread a see among new climbers is that they like to hop on the hard stuff right away without a proper warm up.
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samb543
Mar 26, 2010, 3:35 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Don't do moves like that until your body can handle it, and make sure that you warm up properly. A common thread a see among new climbers is that they like to hop on the hard stuff right away without a proper warm up.
i really dont think warmups are the issue. in my gym, they use an R,I,A,O system to grade boulder problems, increasing in difficulty respectively. (Recreation, Intermediate, Advanced, Open) I always climb R1, R3, R5, R7, I1, and finally I2 for my warmup. then i move on to my current level, I8-A3. I'll try warming up longer today and see if it helps though!
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johnwesely
Mar 26, 2010, 3:56 PM
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I don't know what those grades represent, but if you are just doing one of those problems each, it is not a great warmup. If I were you, which I am not, I would do laps on a juggy, slightly overhung boulder problem for at least fifteen minutes or so. Use the time to work on your technique.
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samb543
Mar 26, 2010, 4:44 PM
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johnwesely wrote: I don't know what those grades represent, but if you are just doing one of those problems each, it is not a great warmup. If I were you, which I am not, I would do laps on a juggy, slightly overhung boulder problem for at least fifteen minutes or so. Use the time to work on your technique.
R's are all juggy and I's bring in medium sized crimps, good pinches and slopers. are 7 problems that are all completable going only 30-45% not a good warm up? im fairly new to the sport, any tips on better warmups would be appreciated
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johnwesely
Mar 26, 2010, 5:03 PM
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samb543 wrote: johnwesely wrote: I don't know what those grades represent, but if you are just doing one of those problems each, it is not a great warmup. If I were you, which I am not, I would do laps on a juggy, slightly overhung boulder problem for at least fifteen minutes or so. Use the time to work on your technique. R's are all juggy and I's bring in medium sized crimps, good pinches and slopers. are 7 problems that are all completable going only 30-45% not a good warm up? im fairly new to the sport, any tips on better warmups would be appreciated
Boulder problems are short. 7 might equate to single sport route done with a hang at every bolt. Find something juggy and do laps on it until you can really feel the blood flowing in your forearms. After that do your normal warm up, and pay very close attention to the signals your body is sending. You may notice that this pain is happening on easier climbs to a lesser degree.
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patmay81
Mar 26, 2010, 5:19 PM
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samb543 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Don't do moves like that until your body can handle it, and make sure that you warm up properly. A common thread a see among new climbers is that they like to hop on the hard stuff right away without a proper warm up. i really dont think warmups are the issue. in my gym, they use an R,I,A,O system to grade boulder problems, increasing in difficulty respectively. (Recreation, Intermediate, Advanced, Open) I always climb R1, R3, R5, R7, I1, and finally I2 for my warmup. then i move on to my current level, I8-A3. I'll try warming up longer today and see if it helps though!
How do you communicate when you cant relate to what people are climbing?
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samb543
Mar 26, 2010, 5:56 PM
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thanks for the warm-up tips
and i agree on the grading system
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davidnn5
Mar 27, 2010, 4:12 AM
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Traverses also make fine warm-ups, particularly if you need to work on your foot placement.
Re the grading system, I'm generally in favour of at least routes not being graded in the outdoors fashion. Why would you try to compare indoor climbing to outdoor? Quite often first-timers try and jump on their gym equivalent and find they don't compare. For boulders the comparison can be closer, but it depends on the quality of bouldering nearby (if every boulder around is 30 foot+ highball, and your gym has 10 foot problems, it's misleading to give them the same grade).
Edit: very aside comment and take it or leave it, but you might find it easier to spend your first 6-9 months route climbing then concentrate more and more on bouldering. You've gone straight to the hard stuff that's going to find ways to break your body - it's worth easing in.
(This post was edited by davidnn5 on Mar 27, 2010, 4:17 AM)
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