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pywiak
Dec 21, 2002, 8:59 PM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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A quote from Climbing #215, p42, regarding the demise of a highly experienced, highly qualified, well regarded trad leader:
"His first piece of protection (a #3 Camalot) pulled and a carabiner on his second piece broke. Only one of his six placements held, the last being too close to the ground to stop his fall."
R.I.P.
Be careful kids. Belay/protection systems are most effective when left untested.
[ This Message was edited by: pywiak on 2002-12-22 07:33 ]
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winkwinklambonini
Dec 21, 2002, 10:16 PM
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Yeah, I read that, WTF? He was doing something wrong, I don't care how respected he was.
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brutusofwyde
Dec 24, 2002, 4:36 AM
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If you knew him, you would know that said "trad" leader wasn't too experienced in "trad" climbing. Everest by fair means does not a trad climber make. And, yes, RIP. He's headed out on the greatest adventure of all.
Brutus
Be careful out there.
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kman
Dec 24, 2002, 4:57 AM
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"and a carabiner on his second piece broke. Only one of his six placements held,"
This makes it sound like all of his pieces came out, which is not the case. The second piece from the top, the one with the broken biner, was still attached to the wall.
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adeptus
Dec 24, 2002, 10:36 AM
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I once meet him at a local crack in Sweden. He was not climbing the hardest things, but he was definitely safe at what he did. 5.10 was probably his limit and he wasn’t used to climbing cracks like the ones you have in the states. So I guess that’s the reason the feel off that thing.
I remember thinking about that he did on Everest and then looking at him. You could se he was built for high altitude mountaineering. I’ve never seen anybody that strong.
He brought inspiration to many people including me. He was truly one of the last great adventurers. May he rest in peace.
[ This Message was edited by: adeptus on 2002-12-24 05:04 ]
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