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csproul
Mar 22, 2011, 5:33 PM
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Anyone ever seen a climbing gym with a crack machine? I have seen them in homes, but never in a public climbing gym.
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rock_fencer
Mar 22, 2011, 5:41 PM
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nope. I've been trying to convince my local gym to let me put one in on the roof of their bouldering room though.
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rsd212
Mar 22, 2011, 8:23 PM
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There was one in the Planet Rock in Pontiac, MI the last time I was there. Seemed rather dusty and unused.
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tks
Mar 22, 2011, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: nope. I've been trying to convince my local gym to let me put one in on the roof of their bouldering room though.
You should talk to jack. he just built one...
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rock_fencer
Mar 23, 2011, 3:03 AM
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yup i've seen pics of his!! I want to mount this on a 20 ft roof! :-)
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csproul
Mar 23, 2011, 6:52 PM
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rock_fencer wrote: yup i've seen pics of his!! I want to mount this on a 20 ft roof! :-)
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rock_fencer
Apr 4, 2011, 5:58 PM
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hey, i somehow missed this in all my lurking around.
hopefully jack doesn't mind me stealing his pictures but since you asked, I'll oblige.
I never remember how to upload pictures here and do the whole compression thing so heres a link to my picassa
https://picasaweb.google.com/...tuff?feat=directlink
Oh and epic fail on reading comprehension. I havent started the gym crack just yet. Money's tight at the moment, but i will definitely post up soon when it gets done.
(This post was edited by rock_fencer on Apr 4, 2011, 5:59 PM)
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cracklover
Apr 4, 2011, 7:00 PM
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No, but the Boston Rock Gym has (or had - haven't been there in years) a wall with adjustable cracks. For all intents and purposes, they're like a multi-crack machine. But in the 8 years or so I climbed there, I only saw them move them once.
GO
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rnevius
Apr 4, 2011, 7:14 PM
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One was just installed at Slo-Op in San Luis Obispo, CA.
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edge
Apr 4, 2011, 7:52 PM
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rock_fencer wrote: hey, i somehow missed this in all my lurking around. hopefully jack doesn't mind me stealing his pictures but since you asked, I'll oblige. I never remember how to upload pictures here and do the whole compression thing so heres a link to my picassa https://picasaweb.google.com/...tuff?feat=directlink Oh and epic fail on reading comprehension. I havent started the gym crack just yet. Money's tight at the moment, but i will definitely post up soon when it gets done.
That looks like a pretty large waste of space for a couple of painful moves.
My experience with crack machines like this is that they sound good in theory, but don't really train all that well for the real deal. They see a flurry of activity from rank and file beginners in the first few days, then everyone avoids them like the plague.
Add to this the fact that the boards are not deep enough to overcome the accidental or purposeful curling of fingers over the back edge, negating any true jam technique.
And, to appease j_ung, "for me."
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rock_fencer
Apr 4, 2011, 11:36 PM
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edge.
not my machine.
I plan on building using a 2x12 so plenty deep to jam and this is going to be totally horizontal. Maybe adjustable down to 50 degrees or so.
If you have any ideas how to make it usefull, i'd like to hear it. I have awfull endurance in overhanging cracks so figured, id spice up the local gym
T
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rock_fencer
Apr 5, 2011, 3:13 PM
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those look awesome, but cheap and easy to install i doubt it.
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MS1
Apr 5, 2011, 5:04 PM
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csproul wrote: Anyone ever seen a climbing gym with a crack machine? I have seen them in homes, but never in a public climbing gym.
One of my favorite things ever in a climbing gym was the motorized adjustable crack feature at Vertical Adventures in Columbus, Ohio. No Chicago gym has anything similar. It had two separate motors so you could make the width taper up or down as you moved up the crack. The only downside was that the paint had too much texture mixed in so it was fairly painful to jam in.
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cracklover
Apr 5, 2011, 7:29 PM
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MS1 wrote: csproul wrote: Anyone ever seen a climbing gym with a crack machine? I have seen them in homes, but never in a public climbing gym. One of my favorite things ever in a climbing gym was the motorized adjustable crack feature at Vertical Adventures in Columbus, Ohio. No Chicago gym has anything similar. It had two separate motors so you could make the width taper up or down as you moved up the crack. The only downside was that the paint had too much texture mixed in so it was fairly painful to jam in.
Wow, cool! A machine that satisfies my crack addiction in every way? I'm there! Oh wait, I'd have to live in Ohio? Hmm... tough call.
GO
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cracklover
Apr 5, 2011, 7:32 PM
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cracklover wrote: MS1 wrote: csproul wrote: Anyone ever seen a climbing gym with a crack machine? I have seen them in homes, but never in a public climbing gym. One of my favorite things ever in a climbing gym was the motorized adjustable crack feature at Vertical Adventures in Columbus, Ohio. No Chicago gym has anything similar. It had two separate motors so you could make the width taper up or down as you moved up the crack. The only downside was that the paint had too much texture mixed in so it was fairly painful to jam in. Wow, cool! A machine that satisfies my crack addiction in every way? I'm there! Oh wait, I'd have to live in Ohio? Hmm... tough call. GO
Hmm... no pics or mention of said crack machine anywhere on their website....
GO
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MS1
Apr 5, 2011, 7:40 PM
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cracklover wrote: cracklover wrote: MS1 wrote: csproul wrote: Anyone ever seen a climbing gym with a crack machine? I have seen them in homes, but never in a public climbing gym. One of my favorite things ever in a climbing gym was the motorized adjustable crack feature at Vertical Adventures in Columbus, Ohio. No Chicago gym has anything similar. It had two separate motors so you could make the width taper up or down as you moved up the crack. The only downside was that the paint had too much texture mixed in so it was fairly painful to jam in. Wow, cool! A machine that satisfies my crack addiction in every way? I'm there! Oh wait, I'd have to live in Ohio? Hmm... tough call. GO Hmm... no pics or mention of said crack machine anywhere on their website.... GO
It is a pretty sweet set-up, but Ohio isn't worth it. And as to the lack of evidence, the gym is run in an extremely laid-back fashion. Frankly, I'm amazed they even managed to build a website.
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