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Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response
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yodelthis


Feb 21, 2012, 6:09 PM
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Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response
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Rolo Garibotti pulled together a great statement that offers the mountaineering community's response to the removal of Maestri's bolts. Impressive list of Patagonian activists and alpine luminaries support Kennedy and Kruk's restoration project.

http://teton.outerlocal.com/climbing/cerro-torre-an-impossible-mountain-outpost


bearbreeder


Feb 21, 2012, 6:43 PM
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Re: [yodelthis] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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a first free ascent beats the pants off any "fair means" aid ascent or bolt chopping anyday

the sad part is that north americans seem to be putting down mr lamas 5.13b R/X FFA up that wall ...

theyd much rather talk about a few bolts ... rather than about the compressor route finally being freed after half a century

i sense a lot of hatred going around ...

the REAL story ...
http://www.redbull.com/...view-021243166676734


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 21, 2012, 6:51 PM)


sbaclimber


Feb 21, 2012, 8:28 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
a first free ascent beats the pants off any "fair means" aid ascent or bolt chopping anyday
That may well be your opinion, but I don't have the feeling that it is shared by many who supported the actions of Kennedy and Kruk. Tongue


dan2see


Feb 21, 2012, 9:42 PM
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Re: [yodelthis] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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I like Messner's comment the best, as quoted in OuterLocal:

Reinhold Messner wrote:
Maestri was free to put the bolts in 1970, Jason and Hayden were free to take the bolts out. Cesare demonstrated that CT was possible with the compressor, Jason and Hayden demonstrated that it was possible without. They have all my respect – for having liberated the Compressor route from the grips of conquest alpinism, a style that we should finally get over with.

This image is on SummitPost:



(This post was edited by dan2see on Feb 21, 2012, 9:45 PM)


Gmburns2000


Feb 21, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Re: [yodelthis] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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yodelthis wrote:
Rolo Garibotti pulled together a great statement that offers the mountaineering community's response to the removal of Maestri's bolts. Impressive list of Patagonian activists and alpine luminaries support Kennedy and Kruk's restoration project.

http://teton.outerlocal.com/...ble-mountain-outpost

linked


potreroed


Feb 22, 2012, 12:48 AM
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Re: [yodelthis] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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Yawn. I don't care one way or the other if they chopped the bolts but I think they lied when they said it was a last minute decision after summiting. You don't remove 100 bolts with your bare hands, you have to come prepared.


Khoi


Feb 22, 2012, 4:23 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
Yawn. I don't care one way or the other if they chopped the bolts but I think they lied when they said it was a last minute decision after summiting. You don't remove 100 bolts with your bare hands, you have to come prepared.

IIRC, they said during their live presentation at the VIMFF that the bolts were removed with their ice axe.


Partner j_ung


Feb 22, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Re: [potreroed] Cerro Torre: The mountaineering community's response [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
Yawn. I don't care one way or the other if they chopped the bolts but I think they lied when they said it was a last minute decision after summiting. You don't remove 100 bolts with your bare hands, you have to come prepared.

If they had a modern bolt kit (and an ice axe as mentioned above), they had everything they needed and more to chop a bunch of 50-year-old quarter inchers.


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