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beyond_gravity
Jan 11, 2003, 5:18 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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for endurance all I can think of is making a long jug tugs that goes all around my wall and run laps on it.
for power i'm just making bolder problems
any other ideas?
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rprp
Jan 11, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2002
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If you have enough slopers, do your endurance laps on those. As you get tired, you will have to really focus on foot work and body position to stay on the wall. It's great training.
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camhead
Jan 11, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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I think that the biggest mistake people make in training is assuming that endurance=jugs. Try to do laps on combinations of really small holds and sporadic "rest" jugs. This will help your endurance a lot more. Or, say, do a lap of jugs followed by a lap of small stuff, if you want to really kick yourself into shape.
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col_sanderz
Jan 28, 2003, 11:11 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2002
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Agreed...endurance and jugs are not always the given combo. There are three consecutive traverses in VE duluth at 5.10 which put together are rated at 5.14a simply cuz you need so much endurance to do it. Pretty burly...
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boardcrazzy
Jan 29, 2003, 4:24 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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If you want to work endurance, put up a route that you can work for insane amounts of time without getting a pump or burn. If you can use combinations of different holds that would be better.
A pump or burn is the result of an anerobic process resulting in the buildup of lactic acid. Endurance is an aerobic process, thus no burn equals endurance workout.
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rprp
Jan 29, 2003, 11:04 PM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2002
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Actually, you should shoot for a slight pump. And then find a few rest holds and shake it out without stepping off the wall. Figure out some games to play--I find that the hardest part of endurance training is boredom.
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