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krillen
Jan 15, 2003, 5:28 PM
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I have climbed Trad for about 2 years now, but nothing Multi-pitch that doesn't have a topout. I've done Multi-Pitch Sport and rapped down from the achors, but my question is: How do you Rappel Multi-Pitch, non Topout, Trad Route with no Belay station anchors?
I've heard the "Use Webbing to make anchors" method, but what if there is no place to sling a natural feature? Do you leave pieces of gear as anchors? Also, if you leave the webbing at every pitch, doesn't it accumulate quite a bit?
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bandycoot
Jan 15, 2003, 5:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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If there is no topout, someone else has rappeled off the route (unless you're getting a first ascent). You can rap off what they bailed on, unless it is old and manky like slings. Otherwise, yes sometimes you have to leave gear.
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vegastradguy
Jan 15, 2003, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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pretty much what bandycoot said.
THIS is why i always carry hexes with me on a climb. Bail gear. I'd much rather leave a $10.00 hex than a $65.00 camalot if I can help it.
However, most climbs that i've had to rappel off of (topout or no) usually have bolted anchor stations or slings around chockstones.
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rprp
Jan 16, 2003, 4:29 AM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2002
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Carry a knife and cut off some of the oldest webbing and leave a new piece.
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calpolyclimber
Jan 16, 2003, 4:54 AM
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When you guys are bailing on gear, do you just use one piece? I know it will depend on the quality of the placement. Thanks.
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tradaddict
Jan 16, 2003, 5:03 AM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2002
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Unless it's a good bolt that I feel comfortable with, I never bail using just one point.
Deirdre
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alpnclmbr1
Jan 16, 2003, 5:26 AM
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
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your a fool if you rap off of one bolt
you would be way better off rapping off of one stopper.
two pieces to rap. period
people that do otherwise are taking a very unworthwhile risk with there lives. people do it when there is no other choice. And I don't think there is a single person on this site that will ever be in that kind of situation. That is not to say that some fools won't do it.
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soaring_bird
Jan 16, 2003, 5:38 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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Right-on Vegasguy... Hexes are good for many things, and inexpensive rap anchors is just one of them. Also, when using two or more nuts to rap off something, don't forget to equalize them. It's pretty simple to do with a sling folded over once to form a figure eight (not to be confused with a figure 8 knot). Two is a good rule of thumb for an absolute minimum. Unless you are sure they are 100% bomber, go ahead and leave a third. Gear is cheap. A Funeral funded by your parents or spouse is not!
[ This Message was edited by: soaring_bird on 2003-01-15 21:39 ]
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