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transition to ice.
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baywolf


Feb 6, 2003, 11:57 PM
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transition to ice.
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I dont know if this question has been addressed or not, but if it has just give me the bird and tell me to piss off.

I have been researching ice climbing lately and I realized that it looks like fun and would like to give it a go. How is the transition from rock climbing to ice climbing? Having all of the rope skills from rock, I would think that ice is not far off.

One major concern that I have however is ice stability. Is there an ever present fear of the ice breaking?

I welcome any comments you experts might have.

Thanks Jared

PS: If there is anyone in the denver/metro area willing to train a new partner, theres a case of homebrew in it for em. Thanks again.


katydid


Feb 7, 2003, 12:04 AM
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transition to ice. [In reply to]
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KEEP YOUR HEELS DOWN!

I repeat, KEEP YOUR HEELS DOWN!

Mind you, I haven't quite gotten the hang of this yet.

Then again, that might be why I keep falling....

Kate


mountainmonkey


Feb 7, 2003, 12:07 AM
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transition to ice. [In reply to]
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I am sure that some of the ice flows on the front range will get some climbing action this weekend. go watch and learn.


brianthew


Feb 7, 2003, 12:16 AM
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transition to ice. [In reply to]
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When you start ice, you'll have to get used to a few things. One, as said, is the new footwork. As a rock climber, you'll be used to bending ankles and twisting your foot into different positions...not possible in ice boots. And s said...keep your heels FLAT.

Also, toolwork is key. You'll learn that efficient toolwork is essential, and you'll learn that ice climbing, unlike rock climbing, typically must follow a form...unlike in rock, where you can reach and grab a hold, ice requires you to hold a position for a bit as you get a good pick into the ice. You'll get pumped pretty quickly on vertical ice. All those guys in the photos just make it look effortless, if you could see thier faces and they didn't have their jackets on you'd realize it's quite a workout to ice climb (contrary to some people's beliefs).

As far as ice breaking, it's not catastrophic ice collapses that concern me (typically I stay away from free-hanging pillars and icicles), it's the little fragments that come out to you. Hitting ice often can shatter it, and you get sprinked with flying chunks of it. Often you must hit away the bad ice before you can sink a pick in enough to hold body weight. That's why helmets are required and eyewear is highly suggested. Remember you have razor sharp tools and crampons on, if you pop a tool you don't want it coming at your face...particularly not the adze.


But I love ice climbing. I daresay I like it more than rock ( ).

Have fun!!!


[ This Message was edited by: brianthew on 2003-02-06 16:24 ]


stevo


Feb 7, 2003, 11:24 PM
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Brianthew has some good points.
It is also great to read that someone else might like ice more than rock.

Your first few times it is just best to go out and try the thing, then learn the techniques.


A friend of mine started ice climbing last season, barely, he got out three times. He had a solid rock background though. This year he has apprenticed under our group of friends who have been climbing ice for awhile. A very good way to learn, under experienced ice climbers supervision. He has second WI 6 and can lead WI 4.
His concerns are about safety. Saying he might not be interested in leading 5 and for sure not 6. He is not interested in pushing himself on ice, for obvious reasons.

I love the game personnally, and I am out of here now, off to here a talk by Barry Blanchard, sweet, a hero of mine.


flamer


Feb 7, 2003, 11:43 PM
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I have found Ice(pure ice) to be considerably easier than rock climbing. If you have a good rock background and no how to not over grip, Ice climbing isn't incredibly hard. HOWEVER! I have found the mixed (ie dry tooling) is incredibly technical and have been more pumped doing this than I ever have on rock. Ice climbing is about pure efficienty(sp?)and technique. in other words make every movement count and don't do more than is nessecary. This is all obviously to broad to really discuss on a forum like this. And of course is just my humble opinion.
josh

[ This Message was edited by: flamer on 2003-02-07 16:09 ]


peas


Feb 8, 2003, 12:04 AM
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There's a good quotation from the West Coast Ice guidebook to ice in B.C. that relates to your concern about ice falling. It goes something like "If you're not climbing, you're hiding."


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