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beercanclimber
Mar 7, 2003, 4:52 AM
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sorry if this is totally repetitive (flame guard on). I've read over and over that closed handed crimps put way more stress on finger pullys and tendons. why is this? what about this particular hand position puts unnecessary pressure on the fingers and how? just curious, thanks.
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tim
Mar 7, 2003, 5:03 AM
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you're placing uncontrolled and highly leveraged stress on relatively weak finger tendons when you crimp.
when you openhand a hold, you are using mostly muscle instead of mostly tendons to hold on. this reduces the tearing forces on your finger tendons.
eric horst's book 'training for climbing' has helpful illustrations and some suggestions for how to alleviate and protect against the nasty effects of too much crimping. it's worth thumbing through.
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misha
Mar 7, 2003, 6:01 AM
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The bad thing about open hand is that you can't fit your pinky on the hold most of the time. You'd think with all this genetic research they'd be able to cure that but nooooooo. Instead of lengthening humanities pinky's their wasting time curing cancer.
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bluesky
Mar 7, 2003, 6:02 AM
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Using open hand grip on smaller holds is an acquired skill. I really suggest working on it though. Start bigger and work down. Try working on easier routes and openhanding every move. Then keep working down in size, you'd be suprised what you can pull. Later when you can pull open hand on smaller stuff, you'll have two strong grips which use slightly different pump and muscle factors so you can 'rest' the open hand will crimping and vice versa. Really works, just takes a while to get used to.
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collegekid
Mar 7, 2003, 6:41 AM
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i agree.
i tend to get pumped in the forearms crimping, but moreso open handed...but open handed feels a lot less "creaky."
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rockzen
Mar 11, 2003, 11:44 PM
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With the crimp, the distal interphalangeal (DIP - first knuckle fron the end of finger) joint hyperextends as force is exerted downward. The majority of the stress is transferred from the hyperextended DIP joint to the flexed proximal interphalangeal (PIP - second knuckle from the end of finger) joint along the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS - the main flexor tendon that goes down the bottom of the finder) tendon. This puts significant amount of stress on your fingers, particularly in this area of the finger.
On the other hand, the open grip does not put this degree of stress on the tendons and associated ligamants.
RockZen
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curt
Mar 11, 2003, 11:56 PM
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In reply to: I've read over and over that closed handed crimps put way more stress on finger pullys and tendons. why is this? what about this particular hand position puts unnecessary pressure on the fingers and how?
I am not sure the above is a true statement. I wish I knew more physiology in order to explain myself properly, but I will try in "layman's" terms.
It seems to me (if all things are equal) and you are pulling just as hard crimping vs. open hand, you are putting more force on the tendons and pulleys of the fingers with an open hand grip--and less force on the finger joints and bones.
Conversely, with a "crimp" grip, you are putting more of the force on the bones and joints of the fingers, and less on the tendons and pulleys. (i.e. the weight is transferred directly to the skeletal system and is not borne by the tendons & pulleys) The only substantiation I can provide for this opinion is anecdotal experience. All tendon and pulley injuries I have ever had occured while using open hand grips.
Curt
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overlord
Mar 12, 2003, 10:59 AM
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open handed grip on positive crimps can be quite dangerous, because the muscles are stretched and cant provide any buffering in an even of a fall, so the weakes link (tendon) could break. if you crimp it, the muscles are contracted and an provide some buffering, so you can release the hold when you fall without dmagaing (hopefully) your tendons. you cant release a positive crimp if you falll on it using an openhanded grip.
the good side is: if the grip is too small for you to hold, you wont be able to hold it and will fall of, whereas if you crimp it, you can hold it and actually "ower powerin" the grip, cousing tendon injury.
so think carefully wich grip youll use. if you dont intend to fall, use open handed (if trainde its WERY storng), if you dont feel to good, but can hold the holds, use crimps. and USE YOUR BRAIN
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