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ptone
Mar 27, 2003, 12:07 AM
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I got some tips (Thx ecochick) but thought I'd post here too. My partner has to leave our fair country for parts south. We want to climb out before he goes, trad and sport both (this'll be in 2 wks). Heard Rattlesnake/Buffalo have the best exposure, most likely to be dry and warm. Anyone know the area, like places to tent or crash, good routes, even looking for a day or two at the crags?
He's from out of continent, and I've never been there, so pretty much anything'll be helpful.
Checked it at 'routes', saw lots around Milton etc, but these seem the best bet this time of year.
peace-p
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geezergecko
Mar 27, 2003, 3:31 AM
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Rattlesnake is where the climbing schools are every weekend from April to October. The result is a curtain of top ropes across the cliff. Gazillions of people have climbed there so the holds are polished. No sport routes but some pretty good trad lines. Buffalo Crag is less crowded mostly because a 15 minute hike is required to get there. No sport routes there either. Both cliffs are the best bet during cold weather months as they warm up several degrees above ambient temperatures. The last 2 weekends were warm enough for climbing comfortably with bare hands.
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ptone
Mar 27, 2003, 5:25 AM
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Do you think this 'tr curtain' will be there 1st/2nd week of april? Would during the week be better? We'll climb trad if there are no bolts, thats ok, but I'd rather not climb polished routes. Don't mind hiking.
I also saw fraggle rock and kelso, they looked kinda nice (I'd b afraid to trad over 5.10 today but my partner could lead more), but northern xposure. Someone said Mt Nemo is cold and seepy this time of year.
Oh-thanks for input!
peace, -p
oh--anyone with tips on rack expectations for buffalo crag et al?
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kriso9tails
Mar 27, 2003, 7:47 AM
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There is some sport at Bottle Glass which is right next to Rattlesnake, but it's really just a few short routes that are pretty easy 10s I believe. Nemo is better, but if given the choice between Buffalo and Rattlesnake I'd definitely pick Buffalo.
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geezergecko
Mar 27, 2003, 2:31 PM
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Bottle Glass which is between Rattlesnake and Buffalo Crag has 3 sport routes which were set up mainly to teach sport climbing. They are 5.6, 5.7, 5.8 and are located on and next to the pinnacle at Bottle Glass. The bolts are a few feet apart and the routes are maybe only 30 feet high. Great for beginning sport leaders. There are also some easy trad lines at Bottle Glass, 5.5 I think. None of the established routes are harder than 5.9.
Buffalo Crag has some fine lines, Orange Wall, Rainy Day Woman to name two but the climbing is quite exposed. If you are good at trad then Buffalo is for you. Being limestone, tricams and TCUs can be useful. I suck at trad and usually wimp out and top rope. If you do top rope then pick up some free carpet pads from the gatehouse to protect the trees and return them when done.
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ecocliffchick
Mar 27, 2003, 3:50 PM
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I believe Fraggle Rock is closed to climbing, but I'm really not sure - Never been there, so I can't give advice.
I'm heading out to Nemo this afternoon, so I'll let you know whether the rock is still seeping. Nemo is a really long crag, so there's tons to choose from, sport and trad, but because it receives little direct sunlight, it usually needs at least two sunny days in a row before the routes are dry - especially the trad lines.
I have never been a big fan of Rattlesnake Point and have made a point of avoiding this crag at all costs. The routes are very polished, the ecosystem is basically destroyed and the guiding services ruin the atmosphere - that said, if you're looking to be comfortable and warm the first week in april, Rattlesnake and Buffalo (same cliff, further down) are pretty much your only options.
Camping in the region definitely sucks. I only know of the KOA - expensive, "soup-nazi" warden atmosphere, right off the 401 traffic noise and all that good stuff.
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hoppinbig
Mar 27, 2003, 4:21 PM
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I was at Nemo on Sunday - there were no footprints in the snow so seems like we were the first ones there in awhile. there are some wet routes and the downclimb was wet and the hike in was muddy - but for the most part the routes were dry and begging to be climbed. Have fun at Nemo!
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ecocliffchick
Mar 28, 2003, 2:01 AM
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Just got back from Nemo,
The Alfred Gully is a bit slippery! I just about took a header when my foot sketched on the way out. The talus is also a bit treacherous with ice patches, but all the sport routes are dry! I'll be back out there tomorrow if the weather holds.
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terrainerist
Mar 28, 2003, 2:39 AM
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Nemo rocks! I can't believe it gets so little attention. I think it's awesome. Good routes... at least the ones I've been on 8)
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meshuga3
Mar 28, 2003, 3:38 AM
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Avoid it like the plauge. If you can find it, there was a poll on Gripped awhile back asking Canadian climbers to list the best and worst Canadian crags. People from the west, people from the east, people from the f--king Northwest Territories were giving Rattlesnake top billing in the 'worst of' categorie. Wouldn't want you to climb there and think badly of all Ontario climbing.
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meshuga3
Mar 28, 2003, 3:39 AM
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The title of that last post was "Rattlesnake." I don't know if it (the title) shows up so small on everyone else's computer, but it sure does on mine- and if I hadn't written the post, I wouldn't know what it was about.
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downshift
Mar 28, 2003, 3:47 AM
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Over the past few years I've become really partial to Kelso... Don't know why I just seem to like it. Alothough it still going to be a bit chilly. As for Rattlesnake and Buffalo I haven't actually been their in a number of years. No really reason other than Nemo keeps calling.
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krillen
Mar 31, 2003, 2:32 PM
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Both Nemo and Kelso are norrth facing, and although we have ahd a few warm days it's wil lbe along time before these crags will dry and ready to climb. last year we still saw snow at Nemo in May after a week of those sunny 20+ days. Nemo is my favorite local crag too, but it's not as exposure friendly as Buffalo.
if you climb trad, hit up Buffalo, try some of the classics listed here and in the guide books they are pretty decent (although "rainy day woman" is REALLY polished at the bottom).
Cheers.
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vram1974
Apr 2, 2003, 3:24 PM
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In reply to: People from the west, people from the east, people from the f--king Northwest Territories were giving Rattlesnake top billing in the 'worst of' categorie.
RSP and Buffalo crag get a bum rap from most people I know... and I guess there are deserving reasons:
1. manky bolts and pitons
2. polished rock
3. hordes of beginners and hikers
4. short routes
5. anal retentive insane eco-freaks and their cedar-loving anti-sling campaign
6. gang-top-roping
That having been said, you are totally wrong to call it the worst of... there are choss piles in Ontario I have been to that make RSP look like a climber's haven. And I have been to finer points west and south, and yes they are far superior to our local crags, but there are a few gems in Rattle Snake which are worth the time. I can think of at least three routes in RSP which are among my all-time favourites, Squamish included! Anyone who has led "Crepidation 5.10b" will likely agree that there are lines there which bear interest... And anyone who has been to Buffalo Crag and climbed Orange Wall knows that it's a diamond in the rough.
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vram1974
Apr 2, 2003, 3:32 PM
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In reply to: I also saw fraggle rock and kelso...
Do not go to these areas... certainly not yet anyway. Kelso will be cold and snow-covered. It's a choss-pile which seems to maintain a strong and loyal following from people who like simulated alpine carnage of rockfall, wet and seeping cracks, and inobvious lines and routefinding.
As for Fraggle Rock, I'm likely the only person to visit it in the past century:
http://groups.google.com/...ws3.rdc1.on.home.com
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krillen
Apr 2, 2003, 3:45 PM
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Buffalo Crag get tossed in with RSP all too often. Sure it's next door, but because of the lack of massive bolting, and the non In-your-face-obviousness of it is far more tolerable.
Sure it's not teh best, but it's no RSP...
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