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climbingcowboy
Apr 15, 2003, 3:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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I was watching the aid video by Don Reid (i think) and he was saying that sometimes on a transverse you basically re-aid it by cliping directly into each piece of gear just as the leader did.
1. So when would this be useful?
2. How often is it done?
3. Do you save time by doing that instead of lowering out with a gri-gri on
every piece?
4. Wich is more efficent?
I havent gotten to practise with the gri and a jumar yet because now its F'n raining.
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epic_ed
Apr 15, 2003, 4:02 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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It's only easier and more efficient to re-aid a traverse/roof if you can't unweight the gear you are trying to clean by lowering out from it. I absolutely love using the ascender/grigri set up to clean, and if you need to switch over mid-pitch to re-aid a traverse it's really no big deal. Sit on the grigri, re-rig the aiders/daisies to begin aiding, and leave the grigri in place as you go. The cool thing about this arrangement is if you blow a piece of gear you are clipped in to while cleaning, you don't go all the way down to your backup knot (uh, you did tie a backup knot, right?). Instead, you get caught by your grigri. Very nice not to log the extra air miles.
Ed
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passthepitonspete
Apr 16, 2003, 2:56 AM
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Correct. Generally speaking:
1. On virtually any aid traverse.
2. Almost any time you follow an aid traverse.
3. You save huge amounts of time over lowering out. Just second the climb on your aiders. You really only do the lower-out when you can't second on aiders such as when you don't want to second the traverse on hooks, or where your leader did a penji.
4. Usually quicker to second on aiders.
NOTE: On traverses, do not allow your leader to backclean! Yell at him if he is about to remove a piece, unless there is an obvious fixed lower-out point. This will save you endless heartache, and will save your team lots of time.
It is probably also worth mentioning that your jug and Grigri are on the rope only as a backup. You are not weighting the rope when cleaning a traverse on your aiders.
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climbingcowboy
Apr 16, 2003, 3:07 AM
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Thanks guys thats what I figured, and when I praticed before with two jugs (I know I know I'll use a gri and jumar now) it was so much easier to just re-aid everything but being new I figured its better to just ask. I found that using three aiders was better then using only two in this case whats your views?
oh ya thanks for that tip Pete never thought about the back cleaning problem.
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copperhead
Apr 16, 2003, 3:54 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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‘Clip-cleaning’. That’s what you guys are talking about. Don’t leave your jugs on the line; you don’t want to whip onto ‘em if a piece blows. Back yourself up with a Gri gri, followed by an additional fig-8 or clove. On pitches like the 4th of TT, it is best to back-clean between the fixed pins. This saves time for both the leader and the cleaner. The cleaner then lowers-out from each fixed piece. Make sure you test fixed stuff on lead!
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passthepitonspete
Apr 16, 2003, 4:06 AM
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That fourth pitch of the Trip is a real bugger. I actually left an angle fixed on that, which is extremely rare for me. And I'm even left-handed [the traverse moves rightwards]. Sheesh.
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justsendingits
Apr 16, 2003, 10:18 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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When I soloed pitch 4 of t-trip,I cleaned it backwards,meaning insted of cleaning normaly from pitch 3,---I cleaned from 4 to 3. I did this because it seemed easier,did not want to clean the end of pitch 4 which actually goes down.
Also there is a bomber bolt that I used about half way through the pitch where I tied a figure 8 on a bight on lead,which I used to clean,and lower out off of.
Kinda hard to explain if you don't know the pitch or have a topo of it.
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