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texansherpa
May 27, 2003, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Jan 3, 2001
Posts: 138
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Hey all I'm off to Yosemite in a month, and the only climbing I get done around here is gym cuz I'm kind of away from the real stuff. Any suggestions on how to get Yosemite technique prep. without having to take a road trip? thanks.
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dsafanda
May 27, 2003, 5:41 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2002
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I tend to think the only way to gain Yosemite technique is to climb in Yosemite. The gym certainly won't help you. But so what...it's all in the name of fun. When you get there, jump on a climb that you think should be very easy for you, get spanked and enjoy it. With each climb you'll get better and better.
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shortfatoldguy
May 27, 2003, 5:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
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Somebody turn this guy on to the URL for Dingus's crack primer. Great document.
Is there any gym in DFW that's got a crack? Any practice is better than none.
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dingus
May 27, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Crack open your favorite 'how to' climbing manual and bone up on jamming. Pay particular attention to footwork.
As was already said, there isn't a whole lot a gym will do for you in prep terms except in general climbing fitness (which is important!). If there are a few practice cracks in your gym, work em till you're blue in the face. If it's like any gym I've ever visited, the cracks will not approximate Yosemite cracks at all... but *some* crack practice is far better than none. You'll find that most moderates in the Valley proper require crack climbing skills.
Are you hooking up with an experienced Valley hand or just going it alone? PM me if you're looking for a guide, I know a good one.
DMT
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dingus
May 27, 2003, 5:55 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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In reply to: Somebody turn this guy on to the URL for Dingus's crack primer. Great document. Is there any gym in DFW that's got a crack? Any practice is better than none.
lol. Here it is:
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&th=ca7b7b3ba8dd687&rnum=1
That post spawned an interesting 140 some odd post discussion. There is a lot of good info there.
DMT
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