Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope?
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wandering_dusk


Oct 10, 2003, 9:18 AM
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Registered: Aug 18, 2003
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Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope?
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I know the obvious answer is three (or more), however would you feel comfortable top-roping an ice climb on three screws? Just wondering....


fabe


Oct 10, 2003, 9:31 AM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2003
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Re: Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope? [In reply to]
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it always depends. i would feel pretty comfortable on two long screws in compact ice if they are placed in the right angle.
but i guess i'd use at least tree in bad ice!!!


attitude


Oct 10, 2003, 5:15 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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Re: Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope? [In reply to]
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One screw and one v-thread. I worry about screws melting out in warm and/or sunshine.


tradklime


Oct 10, 2003, 5:21 PM
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Re: Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I worry about screws melting out in warm and/or sunshine.

If snow is available, pack some over the screw hanger.

Why not use 3 screws if you can? Otherwise you deal with what's available and decide based on your own comfort level.


hammer_


Oct 10, 2003, 6:09 PM
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Re: Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope? [In reply to]
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A v-thread in good ice is way stronger than a screw in the same ice. Use two screws and one v-thread. Check every couple hours for any sign of melting even if you cover hangers with snow.


micahmcguire


Oct 13, 2003, 5:27 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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Re: Two or Three Screws for Top-Rope? [In reply to]
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i've trusted worse when conditions were at their worst, but I'd say three or more for a good anchor. and the point abput the V-thread is a good one in warer weather


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