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taraus_de_bull


Oct 15, 2003, 8:51 PM
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So, i'm doing a report for the gym i work at, nothing serious or anything, just sorat a fun survey for us bored employees. Here's the question:

What was the biggest contributing factor that helped you improve your climbing skills? Also, how long have you been climbing and when did this event take place? A rough estimate at your skill level too would be helpful.

my answer is:
Reading about the mental side of climbing. Once i read about it and learned how to really allow myself to climb at my peak, my level jumped fast. It took me about 3 months to practice different techniques to open my mind up, but it was the best training i've ever done. I've been climbing for about 5 years now, and it happened about a year into climbing for me. I'm roughly a 5.11 climber, give or take a little.


dalguard


Oct 15, 2003, 9:37 PM
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Losing weight and getting stronger. I know they say strength is rarely the limiting factor, but sometimes it's the limiting factor.


maculated


Oct 15, 2003, 9:39 PM
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I definitely notice when I lose weight i have a better time of pulling harder stuff.


overlord


Oct 15, 2003, 9:45 PM
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taking the time to learn proper footwork. im still learning.


trenchdigger


Oct 15, 2003, 9:52 PM
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One of the biggest enlightenments that really helped my climbing was when I realized that the obvious hold is not always the best hold. When you're learning to climb, you look for big holds that you can pull down on. Sometimes you need to ignore the bigger edge that your hand wants to reach for and use that little crimper that's in just the right spot. Other times you'll need a little side pull, or even an upward pulling hold so you can get the right body tension to stick the move.

Once I realized this, I started thinking about what kind of body tension I needed for the next move and looked for a hold (no matter how big or small) in the right position and direction to make the next move.

~Adam~


overlord


Oct 15, 2003, 9:54 PM
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trenchdigger: thats some gr8 advice.


petsfed


Oct 15, 2003, 9:55 PM
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Breaking up with my girlfriend. Suddenly there was clarity and I could climb so much harder.


jookyhead


Oct 15, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Climbing.


dynoguy


Oct 15, 2003, 9:58 PM
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those madrock finger condoms are what helped me push my limits :lol:


slablizard


Oct 15, 2003, 10:38 PM
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In reply to:
What was the biggest contributing factor that helped you improve your climbing skills?


1) leading
2) Climbing with stronger guys (and girls, when I met my wife she was leading 5.12b)
3) improving footwork
4) good climbing shoes
5) climb on different terrain
6) Be open to learn from others

5.11b OS - 5.12b worked


alpinerock


Oct 16, 2003, 1:05 AM
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probaly my biggest thing would be starting to boulder with new partners, I climbed with the same partners for 4 months,(we started together) so we all learned from eachother... pretty soon though we had learned all the things that we could from each other. so i started going with new partners, WOW, i was looking at like 10 new ways to do the same problem, it was very enlightening(i lead 11b, and boulder V7)


alpnclmbr1


Oct 16, 2003, 1:41 AM
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addiction


muncher


Oct 16, 2003, 3:27 AM
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By far the best thing I've done to imporve my climbing was building a woody in my then bedroom, now it's located in my garage.

Being able to train whenver you feel like it is very helpful. All those times you can't get to the crag or gym you can just stay home and crank on, smoke dope and listen to some tunes at night, when it's raining etc.

Another thing was reading an article on interval training. Losing a bit of bulk left over from my football playing days also helped a bit.

Climbing with people better than you helps alot. I recently linked up with a new training partner who is stronger than me and has better technique and plenty of motivation and have noticed a marked improvement in my climbing from my attitude to my technique. strength and endurance.


lifeguard4


Oct 16, 2003, 4:27 AM
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Experience...


rkhali


Oct 16, 2003, 5:13 AM
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- Finding partners with the same level to work on problems with (a little competition never hurt anyone).
- Being surrounded by better climbers

Went from V0 to V4 in 6 months (and still going).

Cheers


jt512


Oct 16, 2003, 5:17 PM
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Joining a climbing gym, climbing with stronger partners, some mental improvements.


trillium


Oct 16, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Losing weight and following someone who was a much better climber than I was.


howdidshedothat


Oct 17, 2003, 4:44 PM
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All very good advice!! 8)


robmcc


Oct 17, 2003, 5:14 PM
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In reply to:
Losing weight and getting stronger. I know they say strength is rarely the limiting factor, but sometimes it's the limiting factor.

I think one of the dirty little secrets of climbing is that the people who say this HAVE the strength.

I got a big wake up call. I climbed extensively 10-13 years ago and was, imo, pretty darned strong. I said the same things. It's not about strength. If you can climb stairs, you can climb rocks. Then I quit for 9 years, came back with relatively little strength, but still remembered the technique. I couldn't climb for crap. Now, 6 months later, some of the strength is back and I'm climbing a lot better.


dalguard


Oct 18, 2003, 5:28 PM
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I think there are some techniques that require strength first to learn them. Once you're strong enough to fake your way through the technique you start to get a feel for it and it no longer requires that strength. Then it feels easy and you tell other people they don't need to be strong if they have the proper technique.

An example that anyone can try is to do a long move on an overhanging wall close to the ground. Can't pull it off? Have someone push your back towards the wall slightly as you try so that you can do it. Once you've done it a few times with assistance try again without and you may be surprised. Your body learns the technique of staying in towards the wall thanks to the push and once you've learned how it feels you can probably do it yourself even though you haven't gotten surprisingly stronger in the last few minutes.


shnobe


Oct 18, 2003, 8:05 PM
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For me what really helped was learning that a well-placed piece of pro will hold you in a fall, and on the other side of that learning how to take falls while sport climbing. Those two things helped me move my climbing up the scale. For the strength part of climbing, a finger board helped with that.


rockclimbr


Oct 18, 2003, 10:55 PM
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breaking up with a girlfriend who doesnt like to climb help..damn, i dunno what i was thinking when i went out with her..o well, we all make mistakes right?


andypro


Oct 19, 2003, 12:34 AM
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The deciding "event" that improved my climbing skills was when I realized that chasing numbers sucks. Now, I could care less if I ever climb 5.13. Dont care too really. Instead of being a sketchy 5.12 climber I'm now a happy and content 5.8/9 climber who can climb 5.11, and more enjoys an easier backcountry/alpine climb than a roadside crag 5.13.


nwrestler03


Oct 19, 2003, 2:16 AM
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taurus...what books did u read?


chossmonkey


Oct 19, 2003, 2:52 PM
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I read how to climb 5.12 by E. Horst. It pretty much pointed out the obvious to me but it helped me go in a straight line instead of wandering back and fourth between improvements. The one thing that helps me most is working my weaknesses. What ever they may be, strength, endurance, mental, not climbing enough, over training. I guess what I'm saying is there isn't one thing that will make you way better, except maybe taking a good look at what you aren't good at and wanting to improve on it. I don't agree totally that chasing numbers sucks. Chasing numbers sucks when you do it to impress other people. Chasing numbers is good when you do it for yourself. It's about self improvement. Personally I like being able to go to any crag I want and being able to climb pretty much what ever I want. I don't climb a route because it is rated 5.whatever or V blah blah blah. I climb the cool looking routes. Whether they are 5.7 or 5.12+. Yeah it's cool to on-sight 5.12. It's also cool to go to a crag and climb all the routes, even if the hardest one is only 11a. By best friend and climbing buddy redpoints 11a after working it on a good day. I don't look down upon him for this. I do however feel bad when we are climbing our third or fourth day on on a short trip with limited time and he's a belay slave because he's to tired and I'm ripping the place apart climbing everything in sight ,on sight. I changed my mind, the thing that improved me the most was a lust for climbing what ever I want, especially the really cool lines that most people just look at.

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